Bring her back to life, pleeeease?

[TwoJ's]

Yeah, it is highly doubtful that a small leak there would cause your car to not run properly. Do you think it's a vacuum leak at that point or what?

[TwoJ's]

I made markings and took off the head...then I replaced the gasket...then I slaped the head back on (according to the markings)

And what do you mean by this? Where did you make markings? Why did you make markings? There are marks on the cam gear and cylinder head casting so you don't have to make marks. There is also a mark on the crank pulley and block. So when you reassembled it did you ensure that the crank and cam were both in the top dead center position?

Did you even replace the belt and tensioner?

My bet is that you don't have the cam/crank timed properly.

[eshghehBMW]

do you guyz even read anymore!?!!

THE CAR TURNED ON AND RAN.
I'm getting SPARK/FUEL/AIR.

The problem is low RPM and a shaky engine which points to some sort of vacuum leak.
AlSO my check oil light came on which also suggests the leaking spot I will be fixing. (oil return tube)
For the most part my RPM is at half...and not the .75 range it used to be.

Hopefully, the O-rings and washer will fix and bring her back to normal conditions.

[Danny]

The problem is low RPM and a shaky engine which points to some sort of vacuum leak.
AlSO my check oil light came on which also suggests the leaking spot I will be fixing. (oil return tube)
For the most part my RPM is at half...and not the .75 range it used to be.

Ok, So you know the problem. Rectify it.

[eshghehBMW]

UPDATE:

K today i got the washers and rings put in and the car turned on and ran less shaky.

The MAIN issue now is that the RPM is at 1...( in neutral or Park)...and as soon as you put the car in D or R...it goes down to half way and the car shakes much more (like a V8 muscle car)
also when you drive, the gas pedal doesn't seem to do much...there's a lag in acceleration.

My guess would be to adjust the throttle body lines...but I been doing that for ever now...and I can't get a good spot to have NO SHAKE...in D or R.

What should I Dooo?

[kowalski]

i think i know your problem, your car is an auto.

[SpecM]

OP, stop talking like a girl. Rpm is not measured in ".75" or "1", its 750 rpm or 1000 rpm. And the AT marks mean "drive", "park" and "reverse", not D or P or R. And stop asking what to do and follow our advise.

/rant... sorry everyone, OP included.

[eshghehBMW]

^ guyz everything else is fine, meaning I been doing what you told me so far

this here is a new/weird problem

my temp. gauge is stock at 1/4 line
my check engine light is on
my oil light is still on
idles fine in "park" or "neutral"
idles rough in "Drive" or "Reverse"
acceleration lags

it's very close to this gentleman's problem

http://www.digest.net/bmw/archive/v8/msg09078.html

[e30jones]

^ guyz everything else is fine, meaning I been doing what you told me so far

this here is a new/weird problem

my temp. gauge is stock at 1/4 line -- Did you bleed the coolant when you refilled?
my check engine light is on -- Do the pedal test to see what the code is, search for details on the pedal test...as has been suggested before
my oil light is still on -- Is this your oil pressure light, (the oil can on the bottom of the cluster)? I would look into this further if it is, don't run your engine any more if the oil pressure light is on, until you determine if your oil pump is crapped out, or you have a faulty sensor (or not connected) or you forgot to put oil in your engine
idles fine in "park" or "neutral"
idles rough in "Drive" or "Reverse"
acceleration lags

it's very close to this gentleman's problem

http://www.digest.net/bmw/archive/v8/msg09078.html

See above ^^

As TwoJ's has suggested, check to see if your timing belt was installed a tooth off.
My suggestion is take the timing cover off and make sure that you did the timing belt right, (and put a new belt & tensioner on if you didn't the first time). As a self-proclaimed noob, I'd say its a reasonable assumption that you may have screwed this part up somewhere. Make sure that the slack in the belt is in the correct spot, and make sure that you can turn the engine over by hand 2 revolutions and still have the timing marks on both the head and block line up properly. Sometimes you have to do jobs twice when you are learning to get them done correctly.

Playing with your throttle linkage is most likely just masking the initial problem. And I'm pretty sure there should only be one o-ring on the bottom and one on the top of the oil return tube, check realoem.com if you are uncertain about what goes where.

[SpecM]

-OH, since you hot-tanked the throttle body, you must have removed the TPS, so make sure you have it aligned properly (with a voltmeter).

-How are you checking spark?

[eshghehBMW]

K so I corrected the TPS position...now it clicks when ever I open the throttle.

the Idling went back to the 750 range it used to be in "Park" or "neutral" still shakes a bit.

in "Drive" or "Reverse" the RPM goes down to like 600...and I had the car quite on me twice when I put it in those gears.

I drove around the block and the car shaked alot and the gear changes seem to happen at much higher RPMs like 3000. (there's a definite lag in acceleration...is what I'm trying to say I guess)