I haven't ever done it before. What degree of difficulty is it and what tools are needed? Any advice before doing it would also be appreciated. I was told all I would need is a set of metric sockets and a hammer.
Replacing a control arm.
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^ Well, no. Good luck getting a socket on those lock nuts. Get a 22mm or 7/8 STUBBY wrench and use leverage to your advantage. You may also need a pickle fork (as long as you are replacing all the ball joints), some PB Blaster, and some patience; you can't turn the wrench very far. You will have to get CAB's pressed in if you are replacing them, and dish soap to slide them onto the control arm. It takes a while the first time, but it's a rewarding job. Good luck!Originally posted by chileelkyamaze about the enthusiasm e30 generate -
I am not replacing the bearings so will I have to get them pressed still?I feel like a fish out of water, most times.

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Hahaha I think you mean bushings. They need to be pressed into the 'lollipops' that bolt to the body. If you don't want to replace them that is ok, but I ruined my old ones getting the lollipops off the old control arm. Of course, I knew I'd be replacing them, but they were REALLY on there.Originally posted by chileelkyamaze about the enthusiasm e30 generateComment
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If you aren't replacing the control arm bushings you won't have to worry about getting them pressed in/out of the lollipops. However, if your CAB's are OE type bushings and are at all worn your are going to have to be very careful removing the control arm end FROM the bushing to avoid tearing or damaging it.
Also, I second that the nuts holding the control arms to the subframe are a PITA. I read after doing mine that the best way to deal with them is to drop the subframe so you can get better purchase on them as well as re-torque them to the appropriate setting.Comment
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You beat me to it :)Hahaha I think you mean bushings. They need to be pressed into the 'lollipops' that bolt to the body. If you don't want to replace them that is ok, but I ruined my old ones getting the lollipops off the old control arm. Of course, I knew I'd be replacing them, but they were REALLY on there.Comment
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On the m20 cars there is little clearance, the biggest issue will be getting to the main 22mm nuts on top of the subframe, they are just behind the engine mounts.


I would also replace the complete control arm(s) that way you don't have to deal with pressing stuff in (other than the rear mounting point for the rear cab).Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827Comment
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Sounds like a job for someone more knowledgeable. Dad!!!! Some of what was said kinda flew over me.I feel like a fish out of water, most times.

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wagonizzle had a great point we got this done today. My dad and I did this together and the way we made it easy was to use a "crows foot". If you do not know what it is, ask. 22mm it fit easiest with this tool so I am just passing on the knowledge. Take care.I feel like a fish out of water, most times.

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I have been using the 22mm crows foot/u-joint/extensions to remove the inner balljoint nuts on the control arms for years. It takes a while to do it, but I find it's the easiest way. A search should have pulled up this information from years ago.Eric Giles
'20 M2 CS
'04 M3
'11 X5 35D
'87 325is
'91 325i Sport
There are few things more expensive than a cheap BMW...Comment


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