1992 BMW 325is

[SpecM]

It's a M50NV attached to an E36, go for it.

-you can alway ditch the e36 part later, right?

[Stu]

One of my brothers recently picked up a stock sub-100k '92 325is in Granite Silver (sharp color on an E36). It's an excellent commuter yet does pretty well when you push it hard. Around 3000 pounds, limited-slip and the non-VANOS motor that is a bit soft down low but pulls well past 4500rpm makes for a nice package. Plus the fuel economy is solid; his car did 29mpg (highway) on a 900 mile trip last month while running the A/C for roughly half the trip.

I'd love to put a Getrag 260 and 3.91 in one of those along with a lightened M20 steel flywheel.

[rThor432]

I wouldnt worry about the timing belt. Just be ready to throw some $$ at it if it has the original radiator or t-stat housing. At that age and those miles it has to be damn close to time-bombing if it hasnt already.

Fixing the door latch issue is easy, they are pretty simple to get at.

As Stu said, sounds like a solid commuter.

[SpecM]

I wouldnt worry about the timing belt

-yea i've never heard of one breaking on an e36

[TDE30]

I wouldnt worry about the timing belt. Just be ready to throw some $$ at it if it has the original radiator or t-stat housing. At that age and those miles it has to be damn close to time-bombing if it hasnt already.

Good point, if you do get it, replace the thermostat housing with an aluminum from Turner or equivalent part supplier. Also replace the water pump with one with the metal impeller. Both parts will cost you less than $100 combined.

Also, make sure the interior hasn't off'd itself yet. The adhesives and glues used in the E36's (and other BMW's produced in the same era) were terrible.

[rThor432]

Both parts will cost you less than $100 combined..

...and potentially save you thousands. But anyway, assuming the OP knows anything about common part failures on E36's, I'll leave this one alone.

[cokeisgood00]

Just talked to my brother about it he said that the E36 3series wleds wern't that strong like where the frame welds to the subframe. is that true?

[SpecM]

Just talked to my brother about it he said that the E36 3series wleds wern't that strong like where the frame welds to the subframe. is that true?

-they weren't strong where the rear subframe meets anything, yes

[Aptyp]

you should definitely worry about timing belt

[E30_fiend]

Just talked to my brother about it he said that the E36 3series wleds wern't that strong like where the frame welds to the subframe. is that true?

My buddy has a 93 e36 and he has two cracks at the welds on his front subframe. I have come accross two other e36s that had the same problem so yes that would be a very common problem if you ask me. So if you're serious about picking that car up, definitely check out the front subframe for stress marks and for cracks at the welds.




Taylor

[Mclassy]

you should definitely worry about timing belt

Ok ok I said it before I realized it was an E36.....

[blunttech]

those door latch mechanisms suck and i think they are anything but easy to fix

[m3_eater]

First year of any chassis, any car manufacturer is a very bad idea. Never mind the fact that the E36 was the worst 3-series in history - run don't walk away from this car.

BTW, I once had a very nice low mileage 1998 328is. I say "very nice" lightly, because hindsight is 20/20 - and the E36 chassis sucked balls.

[cokeisgood00]

wow yall are putting this car to shame. i guess thats what i should have expected on an E30 forum. O well, should i get it or not. ive talked to some people and they said it wouldn't be that expensive to get a better weld on the frame/subframe.

[rThor432]

Meh, I've seen an E30 tweaked so hard that the front frame rails are separating from the chassis. Not from wrecking either. I guess shit just breaks on any car that isnt properly enforced when you are putting down the power. Just some more than others.