Rust. E30 and 2002 enemy #1.

[SpecM]

really sick(like was so hot just layed on the ground naked and still sweated like hell for a few hours then after that couldn't put enough clothes on to keep himself warm)

paging Dr. Gregory House?

[apexede30]

Wellp. Today I raped the carpets, as well as the stuff under the carpets. Gave it a good scrubbing, vacuumed out the chunks, and applied a rust converter (the most expensive there, but still seems cheap) on the inside. After the 24 hour drying period, I shall do a second coat most likely, followed by a coating of paint/enamel/preventative. AFTER THAT, my friend said he can lay fiberglass, and I'll take him up on that offer for a couple of actual HOLES on the bottom of the car. Same process will go to the exterior as well. Maybe put some fiberglass on the inside too, just so I can stomp my feet without fear of breaking metal :-P . Any suggestions as to my process?

Edit: The only reason I'm thinking fiberglass is because it's already available from my buddy. I can't weld. Nor do I have a welder. Aptyp can weld, but I trust him less than I can throw him. Especially with fire.

[der affe]

We use Wurth rust treatment for surface rust, but it works well on even deeper stuff. Of course it doesn't fix structural deficiencies, you have to weld in new metal for that.

Takes a topcoat well, too.

http://http://www.pelicanparts.com/c...UGARG_pg11.htm

i have used the wurth stuff and it is great! we even screwed around with it to see what it car resist by putting different acids on it (for battery tray repairs) nothing could phase the stuff!

if it is really bad you should invest in one of these too

http://wurthindustry.thomasnet.com/viewitems/others-5/dbs-3500-gun?&forward=1

there are several different versions of it available, they are almost all made by the same company though MBX. unfortunately expect to pay around $400.00 for it.

[Pinepig]

Wellp. Today I raped the carpets, as well as the stuff under the carpets. Gave it a good scrubbing, vacuumed out the chunks, and applied a rust converter (the most expensive there, but still seems cheap) on the inside. After the 24 hour drying period, I shall do a second coat most likely, followed by a coating of paint/enamel/preventative. AFTER THAT, my friend said he can lay fiberglass, and I'll take him up on that offer for a couple of actual HOLES on the bottom of the car. Same process will go to the exterior as well. Maybe put some fiberglass on the inside too, just so I can stomp my feet without fear of breaking metal :-P . Any suggestions as to my process?

Edit: The only reason I'm thinking fiberglass is because it's already available from my buddy. I can't weld. Nor do I have a welder. Aptyp can weld, but I trust him less than I can throw him. Especially with fire.

You are better off with sheet metal and some of that body panel bonding agent. FG will let water seep under it and just rust more, you just can't get a polyester resin to bond to metal very good.

[Ruffian]

With Fiberglass, a LOT of the jeep guys have turned to fg. Like stated, getting it to bond to the surrounding metal is a challenge, so prepwork becomes a VERY important issue.

[Justin B]

I wouldn't use fiberglass in our cars to keep rust away, it seems pretty backwoods style. Ive heard about it before but ehh. Treat the thin surface rust and get it all gone, then cut and weld in patch panels where it's nasty. If its not a complex bending area like in a corner it's pretty easy to just go get a sheet of weldable mild steel from a hardware store and go at it with a MIG welder. Even if it is complex, it isn't that hard to cut and shape.