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How much is this car worth? and should I pursue it

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    How much is this car worth? and should I pursue it

    Been looking for a few months for a nice clean late-model e30 for ~3k or under.

    Need it to be a DD at first, but by the summer I want to have it built for autox. It is an automatic, but I figure a 5speed swap shouldn't be too difficult.

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    good things:
    -odo works,
    -crack-free dash
    -inspected
    -body is in decent shape (few hood dings = replaceable/repairable...passenger fender is dented, although I have a '90 vert parts car I could take the fender from.)
    -seems to be maintained well
    -alpineweiss =D

    questionable things:
    -no a/c...ive driven for years without, but I wouldn't mind having it this summer, how much to replace/repair in a worst-case-scenario?
    -rust on the rear valence, this is the most common spot though right? and replacing it isn't too hard is it?
    -headliner is dirty and looks to be sagging in some spots. thoughts?

    KBB says its worth like 1,500 in good condition, but kbb is retarded imo.

    Just looking for some advice =D
    Tbolt Division

    All I'm saying dude is that bird law in this country...it's not governed by reason.

    #2
    Seems like an alright car to me..
    -5 speed swap -> pain in the ass, somewhat expensive, but can be done, I've done two and it always turns out to be a pain.
    -Automatic motor -> they are traditionally in better shape as 5 speed motors but have much less power, some seafoam fixes that.
    -Rear valence rust -> need cut out the rusted chunk and weld in a new piece... or clean it out and fill it with bondo (but that's kinda ghetto, and will rust again)
    -A/C -> usually a small leak leads to low r12 pressure which doesn't allow the system to work.. see if the compressor clutch actuates when you you attempt to turn on the A/C. If something is broken (compressor, condensor, etc) expect to pay around 100-200 to fix it with good used parts or 300-500 with new parts + charge.

    Seems like a well optioned model, take it for a drive see if it is in good shape... the big rims and the painted front lip makes it look enthusiast owned, which can be good or bad. either the car has been ragged and needs all new bushings (control arm, tie rods, rear subframe mounts etc) OR it has been well cared for and all that has been replaced.


    et voila, good luck.
    Julien
    Build Threads:
    Pamela/Bella/Betty/325ix/5-Lug Seta/S60R/Miata ITB/Miata Turbo/Miata VVT/951/325xi-6

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      #3
      also -> look for rust under the car (front jack points are notorious)

      Julien
      Build Threads:
      Pamela/Bella/Betty/325ix/5-Lug Seta/S60R/Miata ITB/Miata Turbo/Miata VVT/951/325xi-6

      Comment


        #4
        Im guessing 1k-2k max. Would be more if it was manual without dents, but it looks to be a pretty solid car. Is there any rusting/mechanical problems? I would check for that and use it to help bargain the price down.

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          #5
          -Automatic motor -> they are traditionally in better shape as 5 speed motors but have much less power, some seafoam fixes that.
          I was figuring that buying an automatic, chances are it was not driven rough. No way to tell though.

          -Rear valence rust -> need cut out the rusted chunk and weld in a new piece... or clean it out and fill it with bondo (but that's kinda ghetto, and will rust again)
          Can the valence just be replaced? welding a new piece seems legit though.

          -5 speed swap -> pain in the ass, somewhat expensive, but can be done, I've done two and it always turns out to be a pain.
          I have a 1990 325i convertible with a 5-speed w/155k on the odo. Will that be able to swap into this? I don't see why not. I should probably find out exactly what is in my vert.

          Thanks for the advice, I am going to test it out after thanksgiving (if not sold already)

          Also thinking 1.5-1.8k would be a fair offer if it drives strong and I cant find any other rust.
          Tbolt Division

          All I'm saying dude is that bird law in this country...it's not governed by reason.

          Comment


            #6
            FYI, vert and coupe fenders are not interchangable without modification to the lower edge.
            sigpic

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              #7
              Originally posted by morningsmiler View Post
              FYI, vert and coupe fenders are not interchangable without modification to the lower edge.
              good to know!
              Tbolt Division

              All I'm saying dude is that bird law in this country...it's not governed by reason.

              Comment


                #8
                bump, need to know if the trans from my vert can be swapped to that coupe. I looked up my vin and it says I have this transmission: Getrag 260/5

                also, how involved is a transmission swap? I would love to spend a lot of time and do the swap myself, but I dont think its practical with the knowledge/tools I have. thoughts?

                also, any estimates on labor cost of said swap considering I have a donor car?
                Tbolt Division

                All I'm saying dude is that bird law in this country...it's not governed by reason.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by morningsmiler View Post
                  FYI, vert and coupe fenders are not interchangable without modification to the lower edge.
                  beat me to it.

                  5-spd swap is as strait forward as it gets. Nice thing is you have a parts car to pull from. enjoy!!

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                    #10
                    yep everything is reusable. I'd get a new clutch kit, a z3 or z4 shifter that suits you and all new shift bushings

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