1991 318is M42 Refresh Journey

[udubfl]

Upper and Lower Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Easy thing to do after subframe, steering pump and steering rack out. I had a weeping leak due to upper oil pan gasket being piled and some loose bolts. After removing the lower pan, I noticed I had two bolts from upper pan in the lower pan. Not sure when it got loose enough to just drop in the lower pan.

note: did upper engine refresh couple years ago already.

Here’s some pictures before going through some cleaning.

Gaskets. It seems original but can’t tell. It was stuck to the metal pretty good. Spend some time removing and cleaning the surface.





Before cleaning

[udubfl]

Upper and Lower Oil Pan Gasket Replacement

Easy thing to do after subframe, steering pump and steering rack out. I had a weeping leak due to upper oil pan gasket being piled and some loose bolts. After removing the lower pan, I noticed I had two bolts from upper pan in the lower pan. Not sure when it got loose enough to just drop in the lower pan.

note: did upper engine refresh couple years ago.

Here’s some pictures before going through some cleaning.

Gaskets. It seems original but can’t tell. It was stuck to the metal pretty good. Spend some time removing and cleaning the surface.





Before cleaning

[udubfl]

Hey all. Got little busy with things. Appreciate everyone’s feedback and also sharing your projects too. Appreciate this forum and we need to keep it alive. As I keep working on the E30, there are resources online and social media but this forum is very resourceful.

My next project now is gotten me into some rabbit holes. I’m restoring and upgrading my steering system. It all started couple months ago with a leak with one of the return line to steering fluid reservoir. It was the second time in couple years the steering system was leaking due to age/hardening hoses. So, instead of just replacing one original 35 years old hose, I thought (about it for couple weeks) and decided overhaul and replace the entire system. Figured, why not for another 35 years. So, from one simple part replacement, it’s been a journey to research, purchase and collect all the necessary new parts.

I’m also restoring/refreshing the front subframe/bushings as well since i removed the subframe to access the steering rack. Figured, might as well since I got everything apart.

Thirdly, since the subframe is off, I had this nagging weeping upper oil pan leak. So, I’m tackling this too.

So, it’s a three separate restoration/refresh/upgrade projects.

Will write more but here’s a preview…

Many bolts and nuts were fine but few were dirty, gummed up, little tired and worn. So, I put them some in vinegar to remove gunk and any build ups. When you do this, it removes any plating. So, needed to either replate it or buy new.





Here’s how it turned out after sending it out to the professional. These are the same ones from above. I was shocked on how well it came out.



What I’m learning is that when you order new bolts and nuts now, they may not come zinc plated. So, I didn’t want to risk ordering new brackets and bolts/nuts without having it zinc plated. In the past, when needed, I would just order new parts.

To keep it off, I was a bit intimidated by the engine holder idea. I read about different ways (bend the bolt tabs from steering rack, use a jack to lift/hold the engine, use engine holder) to remove the steering rack. I went with this direction and I’m glad I did. Never had one nor used one. Bought one at harbor freight. Super easy and worth the spend to secure and remove the subframe and steering system. Just hooked it into one of the ring hole on the engine block.

[udubfl]

Here's some pictures that started the major refreshing/restortation process on the exterior. Late 2021, another car came into my driving lane to avoid a deer and hit the corner of the passenger front side (front fender and bumper). We weren't going fast but it did its damage. Not ideal place as front bumper parts are extremely hard to find. I had to work with my restoration shop to order parts from Europe as some parts were not in the U.S. Initially took it to a BMW dealership body shop but after talking to the estimator, I felt like they were more into fast turnaround jobs and not really into restoration. So, I went to a local restoration shop.

Prior to the accident, I would say the exterior was in good shape. Not perfect at any means as it had rock chips and scratches over the years. The hood definitely needed a refresh. I figured if we had to spray the hood, bumper, fender and doors to all blend, at this point, might as well just spray the whole car. Also, figured it would have been difficult to match and blend the new paint with old paint.

BTW - the other insurance company was going to totaled this car as it wasn't worth the value in their system. I had to fight them on this and eventually, they didn't total it. Also, I used my own money to cover the difference between what the insurance was fixing vs. what I wanted to redo/fix.









There's some silver tape on the bumper I had from my house to keep it all together while driving. The bottom valance piece broke off during the accident, thus missing the piece.

[udubfl]

ghrays , I pretty much did exactly what you did. The only things I didn't do is the gas filler pipe rubber cover and the U-shaped short hose. Fuel filler pipe (metal) appeared to be in excellent shape.

Here's the Y-connector. These are fuel vent hoses in the passenger wheel well. So, I wasn't too concerned about leaks here but it just didn't look good, thus the replacement.



Not sure how much a dealer would charge to replace fuel lines from the gas tank. But, in today's hourly rate, the this would be ridiculous. Agreed, it's timing consuming! Here's some parts of what was taken out and put back...just to get replace fuel hoses. I just sprayed all the bolts and nuts for couple days to make things easier.



My expansion tank too was yellowed and covered it sand and dirt that accumulated over the years.

[ghrays]

I did a similar rehab of the fuel tank and fuel supply of my 1990 325i, after I couldn't get fuel leaks to stop near the fuel pump and fuel filter.

I reused:

• Expansion tank 16131178014. Even though it was faded and stained an unattractive yellow, it is hidden underneath the protection plate 16131179779, AND, a new one is over $300.
• Pipes 16131179779 and 16131178627. These both are plastic, not rubber and seemed in good condition. I don't believe either of these pipes are exposed to the same pressures as fuel lines from the fuel pump.
• Fuel filler pipe 16111179203. Mine was OK and i re-painted it black.
• Three way distribution piece 16131178752. Mine was not rusted.
• Cover 16131179011- repainted black.
  

New parts:

• Fuel filler pipe rubber grommet 16111176761
• 14 x 20mm Braided rubber fuel hose 16121177553
• Rubber hose connecting fuel filler pipe and fuel tank 16121180402
• Gas filler pipe rubber cover (at the gas filler flap) 51711884358
• Fuel hoses, including an unusual U shaped short hose that is now NLA 161211803

Dropping the fuel tank was the most time consuming as the exhaust and driveshaft had to come out first.

Your car's silver paint color is one of my favorites on an E30.

[udubfl]

Also cleaned up the vent tube cover. It has minor surface rust. When I took it off the rear passenger wheel well, there was so much old dirt/sand. Had it sanded, rust proof, primed and repainted with expoxy. Forgot to take pic of the refinished version but looks new.



with new cleaned out area and new fabric house before covering it up.

[udubfl]

When taking off the drive shaft, the center support bearing was worn. The rubber piece was broken off. Not sure how long it was off the shaft. Didn’t expect this so it was good to get it replaced. Also took the chance to clean the spline of the drive shaft and got it regreased. Taking off the bearing and adding new one was actually pretty simple and easy.

Ensure two white dots on the shaft was lined up to put it back together.

Not sure it’s mental or not but I feel my car feels stronger on the freeway.

[udubfl]

Here’s the new OE fuel lines connected to the tank. When I ordered the fuel lines with Pelican, I called and ensure that when I ordered 2 meters, it was continuous vs 2 x 1 meter. You definitely need it continuous as 1 meter is too short.

Also, reused the square thin 2 foams. Used 3m spray glue to restick the 2 pieces back upon the tank. There was 2 brown packing tape that held the hoses. I just used a 3m packing tape at exact previous spots.

[udubfl]

At some point, I will post some pics of the repaint work 2-3 years ago. Had all the trims, bumpers, etc off.

Couple things with the fuel line change that I got stuck on but figured out. As with any kind of work, I ended up in a rabbit hole. I didn’t have to touch the fuel vent tubes and expansion tank but I was like…while I’m in there…let’s just update it for another 30 years.

I replaced the outer fabric hose (Pelican description: Fuel Hose (14 X 20 mm) - Return Line from Filler Neck to Fuel Tank(1991 BMW 318is Base Coupe)(m))

Part #: 16-12-1-177-553

I see why it is fabric as it’s difficult to push/pull through the hole from bottom of back seat to the rear passenger wheel well. Like electrical work, I used the existing 2 plastic vent tubes (all in excellent condition) and taped the new fabric hose and pulled it through.

Then, I was trying to find a Y-metal connector to connect 3 vent tubes. Couldn’t find it on the realoem chart. It looked surface rusted and it was a vent tube so it should have been okay as-is. Eventually, I found it by scouring the realoem images. For $50 price point, I could have used other things to make it work for just few bucks but kept it OE.



Part Number

[82eye]

it's looking good. wish mine presented as nice.

[JasonWilson48]

Exterior looks mint from the pictures you posted so far. Looking forward to more info about the car.

[OSAH racing]

Glad your committed to keeping it on the road and using it like i am. That is a nice looking car. Mine is a weekend toy. As a daily it's become obvious to me its age is its weakness and as a toy for fun its strength.

[udubfl]

Original (after 30+ years): Not bad. Just dirt and grimes. Minimal rust. Did some scrubbing, washing and then some minor paintwork to get it back to a good state.



Minor surface rust I found. Sanded it down and repainted portion of the tank.



New paint blended well. Used a paint can I had from previous restoration project. Will post the paint when I can.

[udubfl]

Last month, I noticed some fuel leak while the car was running and parked at my driveway. I noticed some wet spot underneath where the fuel filter is (driver side in front of the rear wheel-well). Recently, I did notice some fuel smell in my garage but I figured it may have been some venting going on. Anyway, as I investigated further, I felt some wetness above the fuel filter and it was isolated to the rubber hose connection to to the metal piping. Didn't know that was the feeder line but I knew I had a hose issue. Only way to get to the connection was to drop the tank. Which I didn't realize it required many other things to drop first. But, figured these are all original fuel hose and probably need a good refresh after 30+ years.