new pads and cross-drilled rotors, only the calipers are stock. it has a master cylinder from a 1997 Mustang Cobra too. Big Brake Kit put me over budget, I'd rather get a new leather interior :)
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My E30: an LS3 Powered 1991 318iS
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Alpha Team Inductee
2014 Icon E-Flyer
2013 Zboard San Francisco Special
2010 Buell XB9SX
2009 Harley-Davidson 883 Iron - "Xerces"
1991 BMW 362iS Touring - "Stephanie/The Death Machine 2.0"
1974 Honda CB360/CL360 Scrambler Project
1971 Honda Trail 90 - "Stephen Parish"
2008 Saab 9-3 Convertible
2002 Mazda Miata LS
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Sick car man! Mad props.
Originally posted by OldDrunkenSailor View PostBig Brake Kit put me over budget, I'd rather get a new leather interior :)Originally posted by cabriodster87"Honey? What color is this wire? Is it the same as that one? Are you sure? I don't believe it. OK, it works. Thank you sweetie."Originally posted by Kershawi've got a boner and a desire to speed.
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Nice dude! But you should have AT LEAST went with 235s, can easily make them fit with right wheel/offset :)
Also, this car NEEDS better suspension and brakes!!!Mtech1 v8 build thread - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=413205
OEM v8 manual chip or dme - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho....php?p=4938827
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wow, this is a great build95 7.1L 16V E36 M3
Motorsport Hardware ***Wheel studs and Spacers!!!--->FOR SALE 4/5 Lug Stud Conversion Kits available CLICK HERE
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niceeeeeeee btw those tires wont last ;)sigpic
^Back in the game^
BUILD THREAD: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=201281
FS thread:
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=214105
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Originally posted by Mike325 View PostPlease tell me you are kidding.Originally posted by Jean View PostNice dude! But you should have AT LEAST went with 235s, can easily make them fit with right wheel/offset :)
Also, this car NEEDS better suspension and brakes!!!
we put 10mm offsets on the front that look great, the rears need them too though. Next tires will be bigger, the forum world agreed that 215 would fit, the claims of bigger were all over the place, so i wanted to play it safe.
And a big brake kit will come, the upgraded rotors/pads actually work really nicely, did some 0-60-0 runs yesterday....quickly.
I have the car in the garage, will get pictures at the picnic today!Alpha Team Inductee
2014 Icon E-Flyer
2013 Zboard San Francisco Special
2010 Buell XB9SX
2009 Harley-Davidson 883 Iron - "Xerces"
1991 BMW 362iS Touring - "Stephanie/The Death Machine 2.0"
1974 Honda CB360/CL360 Scrambler Project
1971 Honda Trail 90 - "Stephen Parish"
2008 Saab 9-3 Convertible
2002 Mazda Miata LS
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Originally posted by grippymonkey View Postvery nice man
I also had a Buell XB9Alpha Team Inductee
2014 Icon E-Flyer
2013 Zboard San Francisco Special
2010 Buell XB9SX
2009 Harley-Davidson 883 Iron - "Xerces"
1991 BMW 362iS Touring - "Stephanie/The Death Machine 2.0"
1974 Honda CB360/CL360 Scrambler Project
1971 Honda Trail 90 - "Stephen Parish"
2008 Saab 9-3 Convertible
2002 Mazda Miata LS
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Very sick build, with more power than that car will ever need! :twisted:
1. You're going to get ZERO traction with those 215/40s! I had the same tires with my s52 car, and they were barely enough for launching. However, I had about HALF the torque you will be making! :crazy:
What size and offset are your OZs? You can easily fit 235/40/17 under stock fenders if they're the right offset, width and you roll your fenders nicely.
Here's my old car with 235/40/17 on 17x8 OZ Superturismos, at et 23 all around:
Realistically you want to go with at least some sticky 255/40s out back, I would say 275s if I was you. If you choose the right wheels and offsets, then go with Eurostop's rivet on flares, it's very doable.
I was planning on going LSX in my last car before I bought my M3, and I went to test fit my 17x9.5 et15 Rota P45Rs, with 245/40/17 on Eurostop's red flaired 4 door for an idea. These were only at et10 with no camber added. They needed to be at et 5 to clear the front strut and needed about 2 degrees of negative camber:
Out back they just cleared without spacers, but I easily could've put a 15mm spacer, or a 7-8mm and run at least a 255/40/17.
2. You really will want to go with a proper coil-over suspension, or at least some adjustable KONI shocks in the back to dial in the weight transfer you're going to exerience. That car is going to squat WAY too hard with that soft of a suspension, and you're going to start testing the structural rigidity of the rear shock towers, sway bar mounts, and axles. You really want to reinforce the trailing arms, sway bar mounts, diff mount and shock towers for the instant butt loads of torque you're going to have.
Top adjustable KONIs for the rear would be great so you can soften/stiffen them up to your liking. The springs will allow for a good bit of weight transfer, which will help with launching, or WOT at low speeds. You should also change all the bushing in the rear with either fresh rubber or the softer compound polyurethane.
3. For brakes, you can go the cheaper route and run the RX-7 turbo calipers up front and VW G60 Corrado rotors. We've run this on our Lemons car for a wholes season, and a few personal cars for longer. As long as you bias the brakes properly, and choose the right pad compound, they grab hard!
PM me if you're interested, I have some spare calipers and caliper brackets.Check out Undr8d Empire on Facebook: www.facebook.com/Undr8dEmpireLlc
INSTAGRAM: @UNDR8D_EMPIRE
Scarlet V2 - #Project333Ti by @castromotorsport, @kingsautobodyshop, @bimmerheads, @hardmotorsport, @excel_motorsports & @mateomotorsports - http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=371356
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