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We are excited to have her. For the locals stay tuned there will be a photo shoot with 5 e30 tourings which we own or service.
Galen's slick top s14 touring
Gutens touring
Christians touring
Robs (ex Ron Perry) Touring
And Winston's touring.Leave a comment:
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West to East and back again before the end of November.
Some people will question why I would go to such an extreme instead of going to a local shop.
But no one has a treasure chest of goodies like Levent and having tasted his handiwork with Nina there is really no where else I could consider.Leave a comment:
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Nina was the very first Gutenparts build and I very much regret letting her go for that e34 M5.
I acquired the touring to help me forget about Nina, however, in order to do so I will need the boys at Gutenparts to work their magic touch. I know once Levent and Joel are done that Betty will be even sweeter than she is now.
She left Canada for the USA on Friday and is now currently in Deadwood, SD.
ETA for delivery is October 15.Last edited by MC Hammered; 10-08-2012, 02:27 PM.Leave a comment:
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I got a ride in this car this week...I have to say it was impressive! Surprisingly enough, even with all this dynamat, the car is still quite loud. In my opinion it was the perfect amount of comfort and aggressiveness.
You sure have one hell of a car! can't wait to see it when everything's all finished up!Leave a comment:
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The last step for the doors is to replace the vapor barrier between the door and the door panel.
The OEM setup is a vinyl sheet held in place with butyl rope and the door card itself had a piece stapled in place. Both of the OEM pieces will be removed and replaced with 1/8" thick Dynaliner.
I measured out a panel of 1/8" thick Dynaliner and proceeded to stick the top edge in place and cut openings for the door handles and wires that needed to poke through.
Easiest method to apply the liner is to start at the top, lift up the tail end of the material and then slowly peel back the paper backing and smooth the liner in place
Applied small pieces of Dynamat to stop certain parts of the inside door from vibrating. Since there is no speaker mounted in the door not much Dynamat is required.
This is why you make a template and not eyeball cuts
The rear door piece was not as straightforward as there were some odd angles that needed to be included, so a template was made
The door lock pin is connected to this metal rod so the adhesive backing can't stick to it, otherwise it will prevent the door lock pin from working
So I decided to leave some of the paper backing in place to act as a barrier
The door cards all clipped back into place very snug with the 1/8" Dynaliner in place. I would not suggest using the 1/4" version as you would have a problem reinstalling the door card as the foam would be pushing the panel out.
The adhesive used on the Dynaliner is forgiving enough that you can peel the material back to access the inside of the door panel at any time without making a mess AND it will stick back on afterwards.Leave a comment:
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Searched the world for one of these head units and it arrived today!
Nakamichi TA-25 (new) and MF-31 5 disc changer (used)
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Wow. The "IS" skirts totally tie this car together. I love the simplicity!Leave a comment:
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Dynamat helps reduce vibrations, however, it is not a great sound barrier and that is where Dynaliner and Dynapad come in.
Dynapad is mass loaded vinyl which is suspended in acoustic foam, perfect for the job but I do not have enough of it on hand to do all 4 doors and these following issues I also have to consider:
- ordering another roll is $140
- there is no adhesive on the back so I have to use spray glue or contact cement
- if I adhere it to the panel and don't like it removal is going to be a PITA
- manipulating a material 1/2" thick and heavy is not easy
Dynaliner is a thermal acoustic foam, however, probably a better insulator than sound block but I happen to have a spare box of 1/4" in hand. So I gave into my curiosity...
To make my OCD happy I tried to use up the scrap pieces of Dynaliner from the transmission tunnel job, luckily there was enough to make medium size pieces.
I chose to not cover up the spine in the center of the door where the outside trim piece attaches in case I needed to remove it.
I had to crack open the spare box of Dynaliner in order to make the upper piece, I chose to make once large piece to install so I did not have to worry about fitting them together.
As you can see in this picture I tried to go as far into the door as possible, but I did not go as high up as possible. I did not think there is much road noise entering the car at the level of the door handle.
The backing from the large piece of Dynaliner (approx 25" wide)
The rear door was pretty easy to do as the top piece used one large panel.
The bottom was a bit tricker so I made a template
Trying to figure out how to make the best use of scrap
This is what is left over from the 54"x32" roll of Dynaliner
During the installation I did do comparisons between the driver side doors (Dynamat Extreme & Dynaliner installed) and passenger side doors (Dynamat Extreme only) and there was a very noticeable change in sound with the doors.
After installing the Dynaliner the doors close with a very solid thud and the resonance of the click when opening the door is greatly reduced. All this is great if I only wanted to impress a valet so I took the car for a test drive.
Impressions?
There was a very noticeable reduction in road noise and the overall sound level of the Dynaliner/Dynamat combination is much lower than with just Dynamat alone installed in the doors.
The tone of the exhaust note is lower and much deeper as I am guessing the higher frequencies are now being blocked/absorbed.
I am very impressed how well a 1/4" layer of Dynaliner on top of the Dynamat reduced the level of noise in the car. I would assume the 1/2" Dynaliner would have a better effect and if one were to go as far as installing Dynapad even more-so.
I still have the 1/8" Dynaliner I plan to use as a vapor barrier and the door cards to reinstall and I believe with them in place the noise levels will be further reduced.Leave a comment:
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Good to know! I was concerned about weight in adding sound deadening to the car. I will probably follow suit and do a similar setup.
Glad to hear that adding it to the door improved so much.Leave a comment:
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Now that the interior is done, now it is time to do the doors.
In terms of importance I would have actually put the doors before doing the floor if I had to choose only one of them.
After taking off the door panels we see that only two of them actually had the factory vapor barrier still installed.
Holding the vapor barrier in place is butyl rope. This is nasty stuff and if you are not careful it gets on everything is very hard to get out. After scraping off as much as possible with a plastic edge I used carburetor cleaner to clean the residual butyl off the door frame.
I used a spray bottle with water to give the door a quick rinse and wipe down, then proceeded to spray the inside of the door with Marine Clean (diluted 1:1 with water) to clean the surface from 20+ years of grime.
After spraying the door down again with water to rinse off any Marine Clean I may have missed, I decided to take a hose and clean out any debris that has collected at the bottom of the door. This allowed me to make sure the drain holes on either side of the door corners were clear of any gunk as well.
Since I am not as worried about the effect of heat I positioned the Dynamat Extreme differently than I did inside the cabin. Still overkill for its purpose but I was trying to use up scrap pieces.
The doors now close with a nice 'thud' now compared to the tinny thin metal tone they exhibited before. The "feel" of the door has definitely changed due to the added weight, the doors feel much more substantial to the hand when opening and closing it.
I went for a test drive to see if I could hear any change and the addition of the Dynamat to the doors did have a reduction in road noise.Leave a comment:
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