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That's what I was thinking and all that work gone if it gets stuck and rips it off disconnecting your steering rack. I'd try to get the proper skid plate. -
That skid plate isn't going to do squat mounted like that... those washers stacked like that... no beuno. One hit and you could easily shear off the bolts holding them. You should really re-think that! The one in the front is also not going to work. Need to cut out that rust and weld something up there to reinforce it!
But those wheels... works of art dude!Leave a comment:
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Ran into a dilemma with the cluster turns out I ordered the wrong 7k tach I assumed all VDO tachs would be the same but I should've read up more because there's a late model 12/87 and early model 12/85 and they aren't interchangeable AT ALL unless you want to attempt some kind of wire snipping and soldering wizardry... So I contacted Bav Rest to try and get the right one, and also looking at replacing the erratic temp gauge. That seems to only want to work at its own convenience...
Anyways..
Got skid plate on.. Since this RaceSkidz plate was intentionally built for an m20 car I manage to make it work Using two m10x120 bolts and a stack of washers to clear the pan for the steering rack side and one m8x120 with a few washers and a copper pipe sandwich to space it off the core support for pan clearance.
Did a quick DIY alignment and took it for the first official test drive.
Don't wanna jinx anything.. But it ran almost too good..Leave a comment:
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Damn back at it again. Hitting that snooze button on Jurt & Koe potstirLeave a comment:
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Figure I'd update this post
After attempting to do the head gasket I found a bunch of welding wire in the cooling jackets of the head and block.. It looked as if the PO stripped the trans bolt and attempted to drill it out, and drilled all the way into the block, then tried to weld the hole.. In the process it burned up the headgasket and clogged a cooling jacket with welding wire..
So after no luck with find a spare motor the car sat and sat until I started getting hounded by my landlord that the car needed to be gone or towed...
Then the part out began.. Suspension, wheels, mtech wing, valence, euro grilles, headlights.. All the goods...
Sat for about 6 months like this
Even offered it to a friend for FREE if they towed it away.. No luck
So after awhile of selling parts, saving money, waiting for a decent car to come up to buy.. My landlord told me it needed to be gone.. After some sleight negotiations I got a time limit to get the car running and driving.. I found a BMW guy in VA selling an m50 vanos, emailed him and he called me two days later, I put a deposit on the motor and picked it up with my work truck the following week.
Also found a craigslist deal on some headlights and floor mats
In the mean time my friend Jason aka AbsorbantNut helped with sourcing some suspension bits in Florida. He found me a pair of strut housings and offered to weld collars on the housings.
Suspension ended up as billy sports with shortened bump stops up front, eBay adjusters, and 4" 2.5id 400ld landrum springs, turner Motorsport fixed camber plates
And KYB adjustable camaro shocks, shortened eBay adjusters and 4" 2.5id 600lb springs for the rear
Car got brand new FAG hub assemblies, Febi tie Rod assemblies, new rotors all around
I had the idea of what I wanted the car to look like, I missed my 16x9s and the way the car sat at this time
I came across the D240s and saw they started making them in 16's and offering 4x100.. I placed an order with CCW with brushed clear faces 16x9 et10 all around... And the anticipation began..
With all the suspension in place and waiting for wheels to arrive I began pulling the old motor out and replacing all necessary seals on the m50. Vanos oil line, oil filter housing gasket, valve cover gasket, rear main seal, air intake gaskets etc.
Swapped the oil pan, pickup, dipstick. All clutch accessories and starter. Technique I found online to get the pilot bearing out, stuffing wet paper and packing it in until it presses it self out... Takes about 10minutes and works great
Connected all the sensors and hoses, Bolted up the headers and the trans already had fresh fluid in from the last swap.. And prepared to drop it in the car
Motor went in fairly easy with a couple swear words and the help of CondorSpeedShops 24v swap motor mounts
Connected the harness adapter I had made from a guy on eBay from the first swap. Works excellent no issues. Everything came labeled with instructions on hooking up the speed sensors inside the car and back of the cluster.
Came home from work the next day to this...
Had to test fit them immediately lol
Also I forgot I took advantage of $100 coupon from discount tire direct(I think?)
With the motor running, focused on getting the drive shaft back together, and noticed my csb is in two pieces. I ordered a new one from Autozone and got it the next morning.
Wired up a cheap aux fan with a switch to the inside to control temps manually..
Bled the radiator and got a KN cone filter from Autozone car is running great, noticed a small drippage from the water pump so that be replaced along with the housing when the thermostat sensor is put in for cluster temp
Got the tires mounted
And on the car
Still needs a bit of tidying up. But it's looking like a car again
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Dude I forgot I posted this! Lol!!!!car has come along way since the day I bought it. After going through 3 different sets of suspension it Currently sits on catuned coilovers. Recently installed an omp wheel/hub adapter. Sport seats. Condor speedshop solid motor/trans/rear subframe/cab. Condor speedshop weighted shift knob. Short shift kit. KA motors intake and intake eyelet. Euro grills. Euro smilies with HID conversion. ES front valence, e36 sideskirts, and zender 3 piece rear valence. Mtech/e28 rear spoiler. Drilled/slotted rotors. Motorsport hardware stud conversion. Turner Jim c chip. Was on 42dd adapters and style 5s 225/45 nexens after like different 6 sets of wheels...
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