SLC: 1989 Zinno coupe. Superlight, Super Functional *6spd swap inside*

[mitchlikesbikes]

so yesterday i got my battery all put in and mounted up. and then today i am prepping and herculining the front floors. i have applied one coat and am waiting for it to dry as i type, then i will be doing a second coat in about 2 hours.

[mitchlikesbikes]

so my cat back had an ANSA muffler with magnaflow tips and some shoddy homemade piping. there were dents and holes in the bottom of the piping and the muffler. i cleaned everything up and patched the holes with JB weld (because ghettofabulous), then hit the muffler with a decent coat of high temp paint. my muffler is basically falling apart inside and chunks of it fall out every time i lift it up and shake it around. hopefully it passes inspection as-is. i don't really want to spend any more money on the car for the moment. especially not on something as expensive as an exhaust. i don't know how good its going to sound as is but i honestly don't care right now. i just want to worry about finishing the interior

[mitchlikesbikes]

The flocking is not that hard. Here are my tips.
-Get a helper/time saver
-Put the dash on a clean plastic tarp so that you can collect the extra flocking that collects around the dash. That way you can reuse the extra bits.
-Have both a small foam roller and a foam brush to get into small places. The roller will help you get the big sections done before the glue start tacking up.
-Make sure glue is on evenly with no extra thick or thin spots as you will see that through the flocking. The flocking will build up on thick sections, and be to thin on areas where there is not enough glue.
-Buy the flocking applicator. It helps.

Thats about it. Its easy with two people working steady and not rushing.

thanks for the tips!

[deutschman]

The flocking is not that hard. Here are my tips.
-Get a helper/time saver
-Put the dash on a clean plastic tarp so that you can collect the extra flocking that collects around the dash. That way you can reuse the extra bits.
-Have both a small foam roller and a foam brush to get into small places. The roller will help you get the big sections done before the glue start tacking up.
-Make sure glue is on evenly with no extra thick or thin spots as you will see that through the flocking. The flocking will build up on thick sections, and be to thin on areas where there is not enough glue.
-Buy the flocking applicator. It helps.

Thats about it. Its easy with two people working steady and not rushing.

[mitchlikesbikes]

things to do just continue to pile on. i decided to cave and drop my driveshaft to remove the vibration dampener since i didn't want to deal with the clearance issues with my shifter. when i pulled my exhaust i realized the cheesedick axleback from the previous owner was rusting out. i'm hoping i can salvage it for now since it is an ANSA muffler with magnaflow tips, just the tubing itself and the welds are shit so i'm not stoked about it. anyway, some pictures.

exhaust out:



driveshaft, post dampener removal:



douchebag mcdickhead dampener:



my roommate got me more paint so i will be able to finish that up in the next couple days. hopefully bedlining soon too.

oh and i still need to flock my dash. that's probably the most daunting task currently.

[vitiokas95]

Good job you doing here.

[mitchlikesbikes]

lots of stuff done today. changed the trans fluid, installed my fog deletes, replaced the front rotors and pads, installed the front apex studs, changed the oil, installed the sandwich adapter and gauge senders, drained the coolant from the block, and started removing my driveshaft harmonic balancer.

everything went smoothly other than a stripped rotor set screw. none of the local parts stores had one so i had to just modify a conical bolt from ace hardware. worked great though so no worries there. i'm also really happy with how the ebay oil sandwich adapter fit. obviously i won't know how well it works/seals til the car is running but it seems great so far. i was also amazed how easily the oil drains from the filter when you remove it. i didn't even have to move the catch pan away from the engine pan drain to catch the filter drainage. i think this is the first car i've ever seen that is like that.

anyway, picture time:

original set screw on left, bolt to modify in the middle, and modified bolt on the right



drainage:



wix filter + sandwich adapter (this was before i screwed the senders in)



fresh rotors with improvised set screw:



and with caliper:

[mitchlikesbikes]

I don't really know what they're worth. What do you wanna pay?

it's a sport seat rather than a comfort right?

[anokES]

I don't really know what they're worth. What do you wanna pay?

[mitchlikesbikes]

I have a black houndstooth passenger if you want it. It's pretty dirty but I'll clean it before I give it to you

i would definitely be down for that. how much do you want for it?

[anokES]

I have a black houndstooth passenger if you want it. It's pretty dirty but I'll clean it before I give it to you

[mitchlikesbikes]

yeah exactly, i can drain it as is but the car needs to be running to flush and refill/bleed the system.

i would consider buying a black passenger seat if you have one, this tan seat is going to be ugly in my car that no longer has anything tan inside. i already have my cobra for the driver side.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Yes. To drive the cooling tube impellers

I see I guess you don't properly need to do It if your pulling the motor haha

[eduTechnic]

The car needs power to drain coolant?

Yes. To drive the cooling tube impellers

[Old city bimmer]

that's a massive diet on the E30.