SLC: 1989 Zinno coupe. Superlight, Super Functional *6spd swap inside*
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changed the diff fluid last night. between tonight and tomorrow i'm hoping to get the trans fluid, oil, filter, adapter and gauge senders, front brakes, front wheel studs, and fog deletes done.
i need to flush and fill the coolant and find my fuel leak but i can't do either of those without power, and i can't put the battery back in for power until the paint is finished.
1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
IG: @mitchlikesbikesComment
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The car needs power to drain coolant?Comment
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Originally posted by eduTechnicYes. To drive the cooling tube impellers
I see I guess you don't properly need to do It if your pulling the motor hahaComment
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yeah exactly, i can drain it as is but the car needs to be running to flush and refill/bleed the system.
i would consider buying a black passenger seat if you have one, this tan seat is going to be ugly in my car that no longer has anything tan inside. i already have my cobra for the driver side.
1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
IG: @mitchlikesbikesComment
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1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
IG: @mitchlikesbikesComment
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1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
IG: @mitchlikesbikesComment
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lots of stuff done today. changed the trans fluid, installed my fog deletes, replaced the front rotors and pads, installed the front apex studs, changed the oil, installed the sandwich adapter and gauge senders, drained the coolant from the block, and started removing my driveshaft harmonic balancer.
everything went smoothly other than a stripped rotor set screw. none of the local parts stores had one so i had to just modify a conical bolt from ace hardware. worked great though so no worries there. i'm also really happy with how the ebay oil sandwich adapter fit. obviously i won't know how well it works/seals til the car is running but it seems great so far. i was also amazed how easily the oil drains from the filter when you remove it. i didn't even have to move the catch pan away from the engine pan drain to catch the filter drainage. i think this is the first car i've ever seen that is like that.
anyway, picture time:
original set screw on left, bolt to modify in the middle, and modified bolt on the right
drainage:
wix filter + sandwich adapter (this was before i screwed the senders in)
fresh rotors with improvised set screw:
and with caliper:
Last edited by mitchlikesbikes; 07-02-2014, 11:09 PM.
1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
IG: @mitchlikesbikesComment
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Good job you doing here.1990 e30 325is S50 swap (NASA GTS2 race car)
1990 e30 325is
1988 e30 M3 S50 euro swapComment
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things to do just continue to pile on. i decided to cave and drop my driveshaft to remove the vibration dampener since i didn't want to deal with the clearance issues with my shifter. when i pulled my exhaust i realized the cheesedick axleback from the previous owner was rusting out. i'm hoping i can salvage it for now since it is an ANSA muffler with magnaflow tips, just the tubing itself and the welds are shit so i'm not stoked about it. anyway, some pictures.
exhaust out:
driveshaft, post dampener removal:
douchebag mcdickhead dampener:
my roommate got me more paint so i will be able to finish that up in the next couple days. hopefully bedlining soon too.
oh and i still need to flock my dash. that's probably the most daunting task currently.
1989 Coupe build thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=312012
IG: @mitchlikesbikesComment
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