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My 1988 e30 325ix - Garage'd
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I'm starting to think my distributor cap and rotor need to be replaced. I think that's a place to start with me poor cold starts. Sometimes I'm starting it 5 or so times in the morning to get it to go. Once it goes, or I rev it real high, it keeps driving, but initially I'll fee what seems just like a missed spark. Tonight I'll pull off the cap and see how bad it is. It hasn't been replaced yet, so either way I'll get the maintenance out of the way.
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Ok, did some work on my car since the weather was inviting and conducive to it.
I fixed a little bit of rust under my door. I have some on the other side of my car too, but this will have to do. Makes the car look so much better getting rid of little things like that.
Here it was before.
Here is was during.
Here's how it turned out. (Not perfect but much better)
I also got the IX transfer case mount replaced. What a pain in the ass that was.
After cutting out the bushing.
After cutting out the bushing I used a hacksaw to cut through the metal sleeve. Once I was through that, got a chisel and smacked it out.
It was a much needed change. I didn't realize it was so easy to get my car to shift gears till after replacing the bushing! Car is feeling so smooth.
The distributor and rotor are waiting for me at home and I might do that tonight since it's not the most difficult job.
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Originally posted by driftxsequence View PostIs this why 2nd and 4th are hard(er) to get into gear?
It's made shifting much easier for me. 2nd has always been a. It delayed when I shift and replacing the mount made it much smoother and quicker. I don't for certain if that's why I'm your case, but it's apparent that drivetrain movement makes shifting accurately and quickly much harder.
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Did you go with a poly bushings or just a new OEM one? Going to be replacing mine this weekend hopefully.89' 325ix Diamantschwarz/Black rattle can...
Insta: r_moose_w
Originally posted by flyboyxI imagine her smelling like spoiled milk and having a half inch crust of doodoo circumnavigating her butthole.
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Originally posted by ThatM20Guy View PostDid you go with a poly bushings or just a new OEM one? Going to be replacing mine this weekend hopefully.
The OEM mount has a threaded portion in it that allows the bolt to snug up the transfer case to the little subframe thing. It also has considerable play, which I think is necessary for the transfer case to function correctly.
I'll tell you right now that getting the new bushing in is a huge pain in the ass. getting it out, not the worst. pressing the mount in is impossible with the rubber bushing in the middle as you'll just end up stretching that rubber so you're limited to pretty much hitting it in there, OR what i should have done, freezing it and trying to push it in.
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Got the new distributor cap and rotor installed last night. Made a huge difference! Car isn't stalling anymore! It's a LOT quieter than it was too, I'm guessing because the cylinders weren't firing on full and that added to exhaust resonance.
The old cap and rotor was so incredible corroded. Not worn as much as I expected, but corroded a lot.
Old cap
Old rotor (right) vs New rotor (left)
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Originally posted by jeenyus View PostI went with the OEM mount. I wanted a poly one, but the one from Condor isn't finished being developed in my opinion. You have to purchase a longer bolt, the bolt isn't snug in the sleeve for the mount and it's just a weird design that doesn't seem to improve on the OEM mount. Almost like they just decided to make it poly and that's about it, but it didn't turn out right.
The OEM mount has a threaded portion in it that allows the bolt to snug up the transfer case to the little subframe thing. It also has considerable play, which I think is necessary for the transfer case to function correctly.
I'll tell you right now that getting the new bushing in is a huge pain in the ass. getting it out, not the worst. pressing the mount in is impossible with the rubber bushing in the middle as you'll just end up stretching that rubber so you're limited to pretty much hitting it in there, OR what i should have done, freezing it and trying to push it in.
I was thinking of asking Condor if they could make me a poly one but went with Garagistic instead.
I'm assuming you left the tcase in the car?89' 325ix Diamantschwarz/Black rattle can...
Insta: r_moose_w
Originally posted by flyboyxI imagine her smelling like spoiled milk and having a half inch crust of doodoo circumnavigating her butthole.
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Alright...
I replaced the CPS. The car seemed to be running just fine, I turned the car on the next morning and as soon as I pressed the gas pedal, the car cut out. This is becoming quite a nuisance. I've replaced so much shit! The car still isn't 100% which makes me so bummed out. If I disconnect the battery the car seems to run fine. Then the symptoms return maybe the next time I start the car.
After what seems like a wild goose chase the last thing I can think of (and haven't replaced yet) is the ignition coil.
Does anyone have any idea what this could be?! Any help before I buy more parts for this...?
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Sounds like the afm to me.How to remove, install or convert to pop out windows
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=297611
Could be better, could be worse.
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