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My 1988 e30 325ix - Garage'd

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Ok very cool. I read it can't be applied to etching primer either so I'm gonna get the epoxy primer. Better just for me to do it right the first time in this one. I ordered some dynamat to put in as well. I'll be using some dry ice go remove the sound dampening that's in there just to make sure there isn't any hiding rust spots under there. Welder has arrived, need to pick up some sheet metal and start practicing welds and then I think I'll move over to the car. Probably gonna use 16 gauge steel, might be easier to weld for me. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • D.Martijn
    replied
    Epoxy or etching primer , either should be fine. Altough epoxy might be a bit more durable.
    Seam sealer does not get applied to bare metal.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I think that's what I'm confused on. So I can put epoxy primer and then seam sealer, but I cannot put etching primer and then seam sealer, right? I think I'm gonna try to make the pieces as small as possible, but also the easiest shape possible too. As far as I understand, seam sealer does NOT get applied to bare metal. Also on the fender, I'm gonna cut a small portion of it out where it's rusted through, but on the seam I think I might be able to just weld the seam closed where it's popped out slightly. That area if like to cut as little as possible if any. Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • D.Martijn
    replied
    General body sheet metal is 0.8mm thick, sills will be somewhere around 1mm-1.2 as well as frame rails.
    Like Kershaw said, try to only cut what needs to be replaced.

    However for the front floor, you'll probably have to remove the section of the firewall/inner fender that is spotwelded to the floor as there will be rust between the two sheets of metal..
    Just take you time, use a good rust converter then an epoxy primer and seam sealer.

    Have a look at my thread to get an understanding of the repairs.

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  • Kershaw
    replied
    Pick up a few different gauges of 12x18 sheet steel from home depot. You'll need the different gauges in different areas when rebuilding that corner. It doesn't need to be exact, but whatever feels close will work. Try to use as small of a piece as possible, because none of the body is flat and the larger the piece, the more difference you'll have end to end. Whiz wheel as much as possible. 3M Mar-Hyde for all the surface rust everywhere else. Prime everything. Paint it with 3M undercoating.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I'm wondering if anyone can help me with some advice. I have never done any type of welding before, so I'm going to be learning here (i'll practice prior to taking it to the car). I need advice what size of metal to buy. what is the best approach, large pieces or small pieces to weld in? any type of prep before the seal sealer goes on?

    really any type of advice anyone can offer will be appreciated.

    Thank you!

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Originally posted by D.Martijn View Post
    This brings back memories when I repairs some rust on my iX Touring :D
    Have you tried wire wheeling the fenders? The lower section is covered by the iX flare so not visible when you try to use a rust converter and some epoxy paint.
    I actually started to over the weekend. It's salvageable so I'll keep it. I am going to see if I can just take it to get media blasted instead of spending an hour on it with a wire wheel. I took out my carpet over the weekend as well to get ready to cut out the rust and found a few other spots of rust in the floor board. The floor drain plug needs to be replaced and as well there are two spots on the passenger side transmission tunnel under the exhaust shield. So i have some work in front of me. It's been one of those things I knew in the back of my mind was there, but had never confirmed it.

    I'll post up some pictures and updates when I get it all patched up to make the post more interesting.

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  • D.Martijn
    replied
    This brings back memories when I repairs some rust on my iX Touring :D
    Have you tried wire wheeling the fenders? The lower section is covered by the iX flare so not visible when you try to use a rust converter and some epoxy paint.

    Leave a comment:


  • jeenyus
    replied
    The fender is looking pretty grizzly too. I'll wait till I see the passenger side to decide what to do.

    Car looking like Terminator.



    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I noticed some rust in my wheel well and it turned into a can of worms with poor news. Gonna need to have someone weld in some new patches of healthy metal. It's a bummer, would be less of a bummer if I could weld and it didn't need the carpet pulled back to weld.



    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I'd say I'm officially done with my front bumper conversion. I would like to cover the trim in matte black vinyl to match the rest of the car, but other than that it is done. Added the rubber grommet, which I think makes it look much more completed.



    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk
    Last edited by jeenyus; 08-02-2019, 02:35 PM.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Spent an exuberant amount of time painting a new alternator bracket. My old one was missing some teeth toward the top so I got a used one and fixed it up.

    Sent from my Pixel 2 using Tapatalk

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    Originally posted by Reichart12 View Post
    Man, that car show looked pretty fun. Definitely a nice collection of imports.
    yea it most certainly was a good surprised heading out there for a drifting event and stumbling upon a pretty great car show and a time attack event all at the same time. Good day for sure.

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  • Reichart12
    replied
    Man, that car show looked pretty fun. Definitely a nice collection of imports.

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  • jeenyus
    replied
    I still have some aligning to do, but project plastic bumpers is officially completed!




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    Last edited by jeenyus; 08-02-2019, 02:34 PM.

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