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My M30-Swapped Alpine Coupe

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  • rbmwiv
    replied
    Get the head checked for warpage and have it cleaned up. They will take a little off to make it perfect flat.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • rbmwiv
    replied
    Don’t forget to get new head bolts because they are torque to yield. You torque them and then turn them in certain degree movements I think 90 degrees. But you will need to consult a manual for the torque settings.
    Good luck.


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  • iso_hi
    replied
    Made good progress today. I moved the car into the backyard, put it on jack stands, and took the front apart for easier access.



    I used an air wrench for the 36mm nut and came off pretty easily. Then I was able to remove the lower timing cover to replace the broken tension rail (and other components).



    This probably wasn't necessary but I decided to remove the head to inspect the bores and to help clean the bay up.



    I've never done a head gasket before so at this point I'm starting to get a little intimidated. Is it necessary to get the head machined and what services should I ask for?



    One of the main reasons I removed the head was because the PO didn't paint over part of the firewall that he bashed and I saw the rust that was starting to form.



    I also got my Recaro's in a couple a weeks ago. They're really nice to sit in.



    Tomorrow I'm going to get my final parts list ready and also find a machine shop (if needed?). Any recommendations in NorCal, Santa Rosa would be appreciated.

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  • iso_hi
    replied
    Made a bit of progress today. I was sick for about a week and it was also raining but I got a few hours in these past two days. I started disassembling everything in front of the house so I have to count on good weather to work. And weekends since it's dark by the time I get off work.

    A lot of things were done incorrectly by the PO so I'll be doing more than fixing the timing components.

    First of all, the distributor rotor is old and looked like it was over torqued during install. Plus one of the screws was a Phillips screw instead of Allen.



    Gasket maker or something was used to seal the upper timing cover rather than the proper gasket.



    And finally, the reason why we're here. The timing chain tension rail snapped. I thought it was going to be the plastic rail but that one looks old and ready to go as well.




    I ordered most of the parts last week. Deciding whether to do the head gasket or not. It did overheat on me for like 10 seconds a couple months ago but I don't think any damage occurred.

    Then this morning I drove to Santa Clara to meet a fellow R3v member and pick up some Borbet Type A's. The Equips are almost ready to go but I've always wanted Type A's. They need to be refinished. I did a little bit of photoshopping of a possible outcome.



    And that was about it until next weekend. Hopefully I can find a place with a bigger garage this year and move to a 4 day work week to allow for more car fun.

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  • iso_hi
    replied
    Quick Update: I was swapping the stock airbox in and decided to remove the valve cover to repaint it since the PO didn't do the greatest job. Upon removing the cover I inspected everything and noticed the timing rail looked broken. So I'm assuming I remove the timing cover to replace?

    I was almost done cleaning up the Equip's to mount in the Spring but it looks like that might have to wait a little longer.



    I might end up doing a little more than I have to in order to clean up the bay while I'm at it.

    Any good write-ups for a timing guide replacement?

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  • Bearmw
    replied
    ....back to diff options. I have tried the 3.25, 3.46, and 3.73 (still in there) options and I would love to try a 3.64 Torsen. I think that would be about perfect.

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  • Jean
    replied
    Stock e32/34 m30b35 manifolds with downpipes. Get a California legal cat for the 535i/735i . Keep it as stock looking as possible matching how it’s on the donor vehicle . Doesn’t matter what’s happening after the cat. Everything from the intake manifold to the cat needs to be how it’s on the donor vehicle . And obviously make sure your check engine light works.

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  • iso_hi
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean View Post
    I bar'd my M30B35 years ago and it was very simple, passed on the first try. Keep the swap clean, no messy wiring, use stock airbox (they like it), use correct CA legal cat for that engine (e32/e34 535/735) . Ensure your charcoal canister is hooked up, use all new hoses , no leaks.

    About the only thing I didn't like about M30 swap was it's crappy MPG and how long the engine is in the engine bay (and makes the front end a little heavy compared to aluminum block engine, my m6x that I have in there now is almost 40lbs lighter in the front end (I corner weighted the car with both swaps) ...but it was dead simple/cheap/reliable .
    What did you do for your exhaust set-up? That's what I'm most worried about.


    Today was a pretty good day. I got the stock airbox and snorkel for the alternator. I'll be ordering new OEM intake boots and clamps.

    I also ordered the missing Recaro headset from eBay. Plus I started tearing down the Equips to clean them up a bit before installing.

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  • Jean
    replied
    Originally posted by wworm View Post
    not to thread hijack or anything but do you have the corner weight data from both setups? Curious as to how the light 318i ended up being with the m30 lump in it
    I sure do, check my build thread it’s in there , m30 and m60 both .

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  • wworm
    replied
    Originally posted by Jean View Post
    I bar'd my M30B35 years ago and it was very simple, passed on the first try. Keep the swap clean, no messy wiring, use stock airbox (they like it), use correct CA legal cat for that engine (e32/e34 535/735) . Ensure your charcoal canister is hooked up, use all new hoses , no leaks.

    About the only thing I didn't like about M30 swap was it's crappy MPG and how long the engine is in the engine bay (and makes the front end a little heavy compared to aluminum block engine, my m6x that I have in there now is almost 40lbs lighter in the front end (I corner weighted the car with both swaps) ...but it was dead simple/cheap/reliable .
    not to thread hijack or anything but do you have the corner weight data from both setups? Curious as to how the light 318i ended up being with the m30 lump in it

    Leave a comment:


  • Jean
    replied
    I bar'd my M30B35 years ago and it was very simple, passed on the first try. Keep the swap clean, no messy wiring, use stock airbox (they like it), use correct CA legal cat for that engine (e32/e34 535/735) . Ensure your charcoal canister is hooked up, use all new hoses , no leaks.

    About the only thing I didn't like about M30 swap was it's crappy MPG and how long the engine is in the engine bay (and makes the front end a little heavy compared to aluminum block engine, my m6x that I have in there now is almost 40lbs lighter in the front end (I corner weighted the car with both swaps) ...but it was dead simple/cheap/reliable .

    Leave a comment:


  • lukeADE335i
    replied
    Nice - very JDM :)

    Agreed on your view of the M30 too, it's an excellent swap in the e30 and I think BMW should have brought out a mainstream 335is in the e30 LCI, and in the process stamped the firewall slightly differently so the engine could sit back as far as possible :)

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  • iso_hi
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
    Seems like an awesome car! What are your driving impressions with the M30? I know you don't have a before/after, but would you M30 swap a car again?
    Thanks! I think the M30 is the perfect engine for the E30 chassis. I have yet to drive an S50/2 swap but I have owned E30's with the regular M20, eta M20, and M42. I love the torque from the M30 I can't help but smile very time I put my foot down. I don't have much experience driving this car aggressively since it's never had proper brakes and tires until now but the weather isn't the greatest at the moment.


    Originally posted by pandaboo911 View Post
    Meh, I’d totally stick with the 4.10. Don’t need 1st gear on track anyway.
    I do like 4.10 but it's an open diff. It's also not the best for high-speed cruising which I don't really care for too much but would be nice to be at 2-3k instead of 3-4k.

    I'll be doing more reading on the 3.25 and 3.46. I only want to swap this once haha.

    ALSO



    So after working on my credit religiously for the past three years after neglecting it in my earlier years, I refinanced my daily (Focus ST) successfully. I was so happy and found a good deal on these Equip's that I had to have them. They're probably not most people's choice for an E30 but I wanted to do something a little different after using nothing but basketweave. Also my first set of three-piece wheels. I'll install these in the spring after cleaning them a bit more and getting some quality rubber.





    Next I'm going to try and start gathering parts to BAR the swap. I'll probably start with the OEM airbox.

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  • pandaboo911
    replied
    Meh, I’d totally stick with the 4.10. Don’t need 1st gear on track anyway.

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  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Seems like an awesome car! What are your driving impressions with the M30? I know you don't have a before/after, but would you M30 swap a car again?

    Leave a comment:

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