E30 Touring 3.0L M20 Stoker Build

[E30-TourZing]

those are awesome

I agree, they were a super rare find. They had E30 seat rails on them as well. I also paid very little money for them.

Question I was hoping to get more traction with...

- What size injectors should I use for my build? I think my realistic goal should be somewhere around 200WHP.

Any input would be great.

Thank you!

[wworm]

those are awesome

[E30-TourZing]

*Requesting seat pics :)

Okay Petar... You win. For others who are interested, these are the Recaro high-backs I mentioned earlier. When you sit in these seats you cant move. I will be changing how low they are though, so the hug from the bolstering won't be so dramatic. The weave under the seat cushion is worn. I plan to replace with cut up seatbelts.

Stay posted in the spring when I update the seat weave and dye the colour of my rear seats to match.

P1012477 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

[MuDuRkKiO]

All the pictures are absolute porn.
Very excited to see more!
*Requesting seat pics :)

Sent from my LG-H932 using Tapatalk

[mike.bmw]

Hello Mike!

No, I actually sold my touring on RV3.

....

Thanks again for organizing the group buy. I look forward to installing the Stromung system when my engine is done.

Ahhh, I guess I did see it on R3V at the time. I remember the photos in the for sale ad being excellent, which is probably why I thought I saw it in BaT. :D

You're welcome and thanks for your participation!

[KIRIEIW]

This things awesome, I've always wanted a e30 touring..

[E30-TourZing]

Hello Mike!

No, I actually sold my touring on RV3.

I wanted to sell it on BAT as I like the basis, and I am on it frequently, although I didn't have a super organized portfolio of receipts from the restoration and I could not confirm the millage on paper. Just my word. I have seen people get pulled apart based on that alone.

The RS's are from my friend CJ. He left his E30 sedan with me while he is in Mexico for the next few months. he actually organized the last Stromung group buy. I really appreciate having the car with me as its a template at the momement for my own car. His car has 140,000 km's and has not been messed with. That's what I am going for as well, atleast astheticaly.

Thanks again for organizing the group buy. I look forward to installing the Stromung system when my engine is done.

[mike.bmw]

This is going to be epic. I recall seeing the red wagon on BaT. Did you sell it there? Also, what BBS RS are those on the shelf? Destined for this wagon? HOT. ;D

[E30-TourZing]

"Op, please tell me more about this amazing engine."

I assume you understand my sarcasm. I would guess that engine put 70 WHP down. It never ever felt like anything was there. Even with a 4:11 diff.

The cam shaft from that engine is now a door stopper to my back yard gate.

[Stanley Rockafella]

Anyway... I go outside with the owner and we look at the car. Its a 1989 318iT. In diamond Swartz. Its had the AMAZING 534-hp M40

Op, please tell me more about this amazing engine.
;D

[E30-TourZing]

P1010463 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

[E30-TourZing]

So here is what I have at the moment to build my motor

- 3000 sport/rally pistons 86mm
- Coated bearings
- Molly rings
- M52B28 - 84mm Crank
- M52B28 - 135mm Rods
- M/M hi-fo head gasket
- Rebuild 885 Cylinder head
- M/M specified outer valve springs
- Schrick 284/272 Dual pattern Cam shaft

Final displacement should be 2924cc

So far engine alone I have $6400 into it. This is why I feel like I am a moron for dismantling the M52, but I am learning how to build and engine and I am crazy stoked. I have never driven in a stroked M20. Not even a 2.7L so I don't really know what to expect. But I hope good results. I am not looking for a 800hp turbo death machine. I just want a torquey high revving, lumpy cam vintage inline 6 that makes me laugh.

Transmission

- Mint 260 Getrag with short throw shifter linkage
- Lightened flywheel
- Need to get a sachs clutch kit, although do you think a OEM one will hold up well enough for street use with this motor?

I have a 525 DME at the moment, but I am making the consideration to go a buy a Mega-squirt PNP unit. That and new injectors, + throttle piston sensor from my m52.

I am not a tuning nerd, but I want to get the most I can from this engine. Do you highly recommend MS vs a good chip by SSSquid or others? Its going to cost me about $600 more if I get MS vs chip. Input would be awesome!

Also, what injectors should I buy? Digger had some good input and if I can remember he said 21lb was more then enough.

Lastly...

I have some Bav auto long tube headers I bought two years ago. I am getting in on the stromung exhaust group buy, and I am really hoping to not have a wildly loud set up. Anyone recommend some good glass-pack resonators?


Thank you guys for taking the time to read!

I am currently on a surf trip vacation in ukee, and I found some time to write this up. I plan to have my car finished by June. So expect bi-weekly updates.

Bye for now!

Jan-

[E30-TourZing]

Alright friends! So lets get Geeky!!!

Parts... alot of parts have just come in.

I have so far spent $132 in long distance phone charges to Missouri. Metric Mechanics shop to be exact. I just want to state for the record... Jim, Teddy and the team are amazing! Like so good to me. Every time I call and speak to Jim I have a note pad out and write like I am back in collage again. He knows all the details and helped me decided on a engine kit.

I bought the Sport/Rally 3000 Pistons, Coated rod + main bearings, Molly piston rings, Special valve springs that don't cause float until over 8K I believe?, Non-static Allen head bolts and M/M's head gasket which eliminates head warping.

Did I mention how sexy this pistons are?!

They are super trick too. Jim figured out ways of keeping the temp lower in the piston by working with the skirts. The difference in expansion is quite a bit less, so I can run tighter tolerances.

P1011349 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

P1011348 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

P1011350 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr


Then, my other order arrived...

I bought AAE Z3 1.9L Steering rack, Lemforder control arms, Lemforder rear end links, new Front links, E-Brake cables, E36 tie rods.... and I think thats all at the moment.

I also have some new Dual adjustable Ground Control suspension awaiting pickup in Vancouver when I am there next.

Once I have everything there I will install the rear subframe with 80A polly in subframe/trailing arms and diff. I will redo the braking system and then install the new GC suspension.

I will drop the front subframe next week and then repaint it. I will also cut the original steering linkage to size and get it welded up. My car didn't have power steering from the factory, so the steering link is super long. I figure I can measure it up, cut and sleeve the shaft. It should be plenty strong.
P1011351 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011352 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011353 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on FlickrP1011354 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on FlickrP1011355 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

[E30-TourZing]

I guess I dont have to worry about the paint on the LH front anymore when working on this car... Ha, ha...

I will first finish my build, and then get the body work done on the car.





- My garage was finished for the new year and oh my am I happy. I have heat and just enough space.

I started by removing the rear subframe. I wanted to install Polly bushings, redo soft lines, etc.

It turned out I needed to do alot more.

I couldn't get the Brake lines out of the hubs to save the life of me, so I had to cut them off and use the blow torch to heat them enough to break free. Needless to say, I had to buy new E brake lines.

On top of that, even while using proper flared wrenches I couldn't get the hardliners loose without stripping them. So I just cut everything as close as I could, and remade lines + replaces the soft lines.

The rear subframe bushings weren't even attached anymore, but a tip that worked for me is to get a large bolt (forgot size) and thread it into the bottom of the bushing more then half the length of the bolt. Then take a long rod and place it in the sleeve inside the car. Grab a big hammer and it will separate the aluminum sleeve from the body of the car.

I then removed the trailing arms, cleaned them and the subframe up, and applied POR-15 chassis black paint. Its expensive stuff ($40 CAD a spray can), but nothing works better.

Tip! If you want to clean and prep your surfaces with speed, yet want to be thorough, consider using red scotch-brite and soak it in paint thinner. Wear gloves and a respirator! It a common tactic we use in the restoration industry when cleaning mechanical parts. It eats through oil and grease with ease.

Pics of the new Garage.

P1011205 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

P1011206 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

Check out the cool untouched stuff this car came with! Original first aid kit in plastic still!

P1011207 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

P1011209 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

P1011210 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr


P1011212 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

P1011214 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

P1011215 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011216 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011217 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011218 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

Check out this Original 1980's BMW tow rope! Never seems to have been used
P1011219 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

Next I had to remove the Axles from the Diff. Because I had already taken all the driveline out, I had to use a C-clamp. Worked like a charm.
P1011220 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011221 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011222 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011307 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011308 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011309 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011311 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011312 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011317 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

So I have access to a press, but I couldn't manage the find right fitting the push the bushing out, so I had to burn them out. I didnt want to do it in my neighbourhood, so I went to a dead end street 10-minutes away from my house and spent the better part of 2 hours waiting with some beer for these little bastards to come through. Shit job.

Also, If you pop the subframe bushings through with a press and only the centers come off, find an air-chisel and get a blade that has a slight bevel in it. It has worked well for me the past few times I have had to do it.
P1011319 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011318 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011321 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011323 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1011356 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr

[E30-TourZing]

So here I was... Finally into it. I cant express how many times I have thought to myself I am a moron.

Especially when the real money started rolling into my touring.

In Sept of 2018 I had my garage renovated. I had to leave my shell of a E30 Touring on the street, and a guy backing his truck up in the alley way was texting and backed into it.

He felt like complete shit, and things happen, so I wasn't to bothered. although the car had original paint and was pretty much mint. Insurance will cover the damage, and luckily the fame was not bent. I will need a new door and fender. I will also get the hood repainted to make sure the colours will align well.

Here is the extent of the damage....

P1010683 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr
P1010688 by Jan Willem Wilderom, on Flickr