1991 318i sedan project - Saving a sedan!

[SiGmA_X]

Enough that my oil light isn't on? :D Not a clue. I don't have the kit to test it. When I get some spare cash and don't get distracted by other toys I want to add a oil pressure gauge to the car.

Also possible that the rattle is gone and I heard something else, or that it only rattled on the first drive home. Too tired to deal with an issue so I promptly cranked the stereo so I could ignore it!

What are you doing Thursday? I can get you my oil pressure test kit. It should answer your questions. The dummy light won't tell you if you have enough pressure @ RPM, only (barely) at idle. And I mean barely.

Possible that we describe things differently, but it doesn't sound like a diesel at all. Never at idle - only around 3k rpm's. Rarely when cold, always when hot. Accelerating, decelerating, holding it at 3k - does it for all scenarios. I need to go for a drive and turn the stereo off to check things out.

The ticking is your lifters. They are either worn out and seals are shot, or you don't have enough oil pressure. Mine have always made noise but with no consistency (part of why I did the relief valve).

One off topic but related item is this engine was seriously nasty inside. Took a long time to scrub the oil pans clean. Currently running some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean it out (slowly I hope).

I don't know about oil pump failures on the M42's, but if its nasty inside its possible that something damaged the pump.. Its just a long shot, and hopefully wrong!

Let us know how that test drive goes tonight. Beautiful evening for a drive! I wish my e36 was running!!

[s_ribs]

Possible that we describe things differently, but it doesn't sound like a diesel at all. Never at idle - only around 3k rpm's. Rarely when cold, always when hot. Accelerating, decelerating, holding it at 3k - does it for all scenarios. I need to go for a drive and turn the stereo off to check things out.

The ticking is your lifters. They are either worn out and seals are shot, or you don't have enough oil pressure. Mine have always made noise but with no consistency (part of why I did the relief valve).


One off topic but related item is this engine was seriously nasty inside. Took a long time to scrub the oil pans clean. Currently running some Marvel Mystery Oil to clean it out (slowly I hope).

[trackjunkie21]

Enough that my oil light isn't on? :D Not a clue. I don't have the kit to test it. When I get some spare cash and don't get distracted by other toys I want to add a oil pressure gauge to the car.

Also possible that the rattle is gone and I heard something else, or that it only rattled on the first drive home. Too tired to deal with an issue so I promptly cranked the stereo so I could ignore it!

I have the same rattle I think. when the engine is cold it's fine, the it warms up and it sounds like a diesel and their is ticking. I'm going to replace the tensioner and see if the guides are screwed and if that doesn't help then I may need a new oil pump. I would also love an oil pressure guage.

[s_ribs]

Enough that my oil light isn't on? :D Not a clue. I don't have the kit to test it. When I get some spare cash and don't get distracted by other toys I want to add a oil pressure gauge to the car.

Also possible that the rattle is gone and I heard something else, or that it only rattled on the first drive home. Too tired to deal with an issue so I promptly cranked the stereo so I could ignore it!

[SiGmA_X]

Humm, weird that you have a rattle after addressing the main cause of a rattle. What type of oil pressure do you have? Becca's new motor has ~140k on it and all of the rails were cracking.

[s_ribs]

I have seen your door speaker pods. Mine were mounted high because that's the generally accepted procedure: raise the sound stage so it's closer to your ears, not your feet. But I notice the sound missing at my feet which is why I will mount them lower if I do it again. Placement in terms of look is all preference... I kinda prefer them higher in that regard.

Considered putting them in the rear deck lid, but only if they were ran as mid-bass drivers. From what I hear they are not good full(er) range speakers, just subs. The ski pass is every bit in the cabin as much as the rear deck lid, so they will go there. Plus, the trunk/ski pass allows for a proper box and that will make a substantial difference. And they are way to big for the rear deck lid without looking out of place (my opinion).

How much power are you running to each e3.6 sub?

[reelop19]

Hey man check out my map pocket speaker pods on this site for design ideas unless you want to buy a set from me. I try to tell everybody that its the way to go and its much cleaner than putting them in your door like you did. You can also maintain map pocket space depending on where you put your ring and what size speaker you're using. I just built a set for 5 1/4" speakers and didn't lose much room at all. I never make my rings either. I buy them from a guy who uses a CNC machine and I always buy the recessed kind. Believe me it makes a huge difference in looks. As far as the ED 6.5's you have make sure they're in the cab because I personally don't think 2 in the trunk will give you what you need. I built an enclosure for 4 in my rear deck but only have 2 in there now and they sound great.

[s_ribs]

Did a month or two ago.

[trackjunkie21]

Just that one rail was worn out, others look updated since they were all plastic. Gears were good.

did you replace your tensioner?

[s_ribs]

Just that one rail was worn out, others look updated since they were all plastic. Gears were good.

[SiGmA_X]

Interesting, I have had good luck with Casey's work on my subframe, control arms, and wheels. It took some serious force in the press to scratch the subframe.

What was wrong with your timing components? The guides looked like hell (Same with Becca's) but the gears look good, no?

[s_ribs]

Thoughts on door speakers:
- They are too high. Put them in the map pockets. Hate to lose that space (I love using them), but it brings the sound stage too high and I find it a little awkward sounding. Keep in mind, this is me being really really picky.
- Seal, deaden, and then seal some more. I haven't done it yet but I can tell it will make a massive difference.


This was a long long weekend... didn't get nearly as much done as hoped, or as much as I should have. But, I'm slow and the tasks were all new to me.

Needed to fix an oil leak and figure out what was rattling at 3k rpm's when the engine was warm. So...


Timing covers off:


Timing covers prepped:


Valve cover prepped:


I really wish I had time to smooth out all the metal. I forget how terrible BMW castings are! Oh well, maybe another time...

This is why M42 timing guides fail:


The rest of mine are all plastic so they must have been updated. Why they didn't do this one I don't know.



Oil pans & oil filter housing are off:



I wanted to check for loose bolts so the lower had to come off. Since I was that far, the oil return valve was getting replaced and that requires the upper pan coming off. They aren't a common fail point, but did get a factory updated part at some point. The original metal was found to stick so BMW updated it with a plastic unit.

Oil return valve is here:


When the oil filter housing is removed you can see it here:


Updated valve on left | original valve on right:


Big change in look between 'em:



Newbie move!!!


Lock inserted in flywheel, check. Cam lock tool on, check. Oops... didn't tighten the bolt down all the way. And now I get to re-time my cams whenever I get time!

Color!



Forgot to take pictures after the valve cover was back on. It's red and the COP plate is purple. Still need to paint the intake manifold and get it on. Really wish I had painted the oil filter housing, at least it's easy to take off. Can't wait to get the blue in there. Thinking it needs some yellow & green too.

Bad news: still leaks, still rattles... I give up for now.


I have a lot of pictures to take on other projects. Fan is in and working. Shroud isn't nearly as pretty as I hoped but it works. Expect a re-do on it at some point. My switch & LED indicator idea works! LED turns on when the fan is on since it's difficult to hear when the car is running. Haven't tested it, but it should also NOT light up if something fails and the fan doesn't turn on.

[s_ribs]

Ok, ABS cement didn't work. At all. I'm guessing the factory shroud is a different type of plastic and the cement doesn't work on it. It bonded really well to the ABS sheet though. Silicon adhesive and some bolts/lock nuts will do.


Tossed the Exile in yesterday. Couple of thoughts-
1) Holy hell it's intense in there. With the speakers in the door and the ski-pass knocked out (and rear seat out) it's intense.
2) This 750 watt rms amp is too much. Still kills the idle.
3) WAY too much added weight. Really zaps acceleration with the M42.
4) It's just too much stereo for what I like these cars for. Sub is coming back out and I'll continue with the small 6.5" sub idea (at some point).

[s_ribs]

Why do you say that? He did my subframe and stuff and did an excellent job.

Because his powder coating on Curt's wheels has less durability than any rattle can paint job either of us has done. It's less than unimpressive, it's just plain ridiculous.

[s_ribs]

WTF dude. I no longer get e-mail notifications on this thread. It's my thread dangit, give 'em to me!


These last few days of work are the ones where pictures don't come close to capturing how much time things took. Lots of time spent, but things got done. Fan shroud got put on hold once the speaker project hit the point of no return. I can drive without a fan, but going without tunes... no dice!

These ain't 'finished' yet, but they do play tunes-

Speaker rings:



The top ring was cut 1/4" too small and rounded off. Doing so creates a super snug fit and less chance for air leaks. Plus, having to move speakers around while finding screw holes is lame. I learned that anyone that complains about speaker ring prices has never made them.

Wiring:



Mounting cross-overs:



Spare ABS is an awesome thing and leads to all sorts of great ideas.

Marking location:


In:



Yep, it clears!



Picture sucks... but Alpine's Red/Amber illumination is perfect:



Initial thoughts:
When you hear people say the stock kick panel location sucks for speakers, you should listen. I thought the PG RSD components were only fine but quite lacking the last 9 months. Now I realize they are as good as everyone says they are. Also, I'm thinking about making a sticker warning passengers about potential hearing loss.

All joking aside, my first thought after listening was that it's not only much better sound - it's now capable of levels that will seriously mess up your ears in no time. Mid bass is actually there now, before it was only wishful thinking. Clearly needs full sound deadening and careful sealing to really bring things out though. The current thought is that the rear speakers easily overpower the front speakers. With my fader set on 0 (middle) I have to sit in the back seat to confirm that they are indeed on now.

If you care anything about sound = don't think, just do it and move your speakers to the doors!


Next up for stereo:
Current plan is to ditch the 'lil sub idea for a bit and build a proper (read: 'E30 proper') box for my exile and stick it back in.

I will actually finish the shroud up tomorrow too. Finalized my fun Boolean logic on how I should wire the fan relay so that will be done at the same time. Sure hope the LED indicator works...

Week and a half til move day, time to get crankin! After that day I have no idea when I'll be adding the next update.