Here we go brothers! First video of the m20 up and running! Never mind the smoke its just the high temp header paint cooking off. There is a bit of valve tick Ill have to adjust as well, but other wise she running nice! Listen to that 272 ; )
Old Blue 2002 (1974 BMW 2002 Content)
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M20 is running!!! Video as soon as I get to an actual computer (on my iPhone).Leave a comment:
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Well I am still having a hard time getting the engine to run. Still just wanting to fire one cylinder. Still trying to track down ze problem.
On another note, I welded up the exhasut.
MSDS headers => y pipe => flexible section => Cherry Bomb glass pack => to center section => to Magnaflow
I did it in three pieces, headers to glass pack, center section, and muffler section all connected by band clamps. I think I need to add one more hanger right at the muffler end of the center section.
It looks really low in the pictures but its actually not. It never gets lower then the diff in the back.


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:D
FYI it'll want the AFM connected if you expect to idle at all. That might be your gurgle.Leave a comment:
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I did some testing and came to a conclusion that made me feel so god damn stupid, but also made my day so great!
First I tested my injectors for resistance and they all came in at 14-15 OHMs. Good!

Then I made my self a geto noid light to check the injector harness for fire signals.

And it worked.
So then I was like "now why the hell wont my car start if everything is working electrically? Oh shit!!! My fuel lines are installed in revers." I had my return line and feed line mixed up the whole time! Dumb ass!
So now my car kind of starts. There is still something kind of funky going on but I get a rrrrrrrrrr gurgle and some smoke from it now which is a good step forwards. I am going to let the battery charge over night and then try again tomorrow.Leave a comment:
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I have everything but the injectors working. I am sooo close. Need a noid light. Ill be back soon.Leave a comment:
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injector test: plug in a spare injector, put it in a solo cup, crank the engine, see if fuel comes out.
Do you have a Motronic 1.0 or 1.3 harness? They're fairly different and have different debugging procedures.Leave a comment:
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I am still having a hard time getting spark. The fact that I have a very limited understanding of how an ecu works and exactly what it does, mixed with the fact that the e30 engine harness is being mixed with a Painless wiring harness has me walking in circles right now.
I got a pin out chart of the ECU, so tomorrow I am going to start at the ECU and work my way forwards. First I just want to make sure the ECU is getting the correct ground and power. Ones I know that Ill work up to the wires that go from the ECU to the coil and see what kind of power they are putting out. Then coil resistance test, spark plug wire test, and points test. Man what a head ache.
I am asuming that the ECU dictates when the coil fires. Is this right? So if the ECU were bad the coil might not get power.
Does the coil get its power strait from the ECU? I think there is a yellow/black wire that goes from the starter solenoid to the coil. Man this shit rubs me the wrong way. So much to keep track of.
I know I have fuel at the rail. How does one check if the injectors are firing?Leave a comment:
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On a little side note the girl friends car got the new wheels today!
VMR V718 wheels with some Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110 XL in 225/40ZR -18 front and 245/40ZR -18 rear. I am really digging it! Now the car needs some H&R sport springs to bring it down maybe an inch or so.


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Yep thats what I thought. Ill check for the 12v. Is there a quick way to tell if the ecu is getting power?
The starter was just wired wrong. I am using a "Painless" wiring harness so everything is a bit different then stock. I was just missing on wire that had been routed to the wrong part of the car.Leave a comment:
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So what was the starter issue?
OEM-style plug wires are meant to accept threaded-type plug ends. That wouldn't cause it to not spark. Check that you have 12V going to the coil when cranking.Leave a comment:

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