Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

1984 325e to 2.7l Stroker and updated body

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    1984 325e to 2.7l Stroker and updated body

    So! First real post here. And after reading for around roughly 2months or so, I've finally decided what to do with my budget 325e. I picked it up fairly cheap ($800.00) running, sort of. On the test drive I noted that the valves where more than a bit loud, and used it as leverage to drop the price down. On getting it home and opening up the valve cover, I found a head bolt sheared off and floating around in #4. Luckily, the head bolt itself was barely tightened down and I got it out with a ninja-steady pair of needle nose without much hassle. The valves themselves seemed undamaged, but that's only in regards to existing condition. Very loose across the lot of them, and quite noisy. In all, I'd say I over paid of the majority of it. Now to be fair, the car was lowered on a Eibach-Bilstein setup, 2 1/4" Anza exhaust (no cat surprisingly), and a 7000 RPM tach. It seems to me, the previous owner to the whom I bought it from, was planning to swap in the "i" head and 2.7l stroke it out but either ran out of money, had too many projects or just plain got bored. Either way, for $800.00, of which I've already recouped $400.00 + by selling misc. pieces to a buddy for his '86 es daily driver, I figure it's a great starter for my little budget build stroker dreams! I would be eternally grateful for any support or info any of you more experienced types could throw my way. I realize it's a very ambitious goal, but, I have all the time in the world and no rush beyond mere impatience and excitement.

    Currently, the plans are to 2.7l ETA Stroker rebuild with a little fore thought into a 524TD forged crank (which a buddy of mine is giving me a fantastic deal on) in case I get the turbo itch. Now, this will be my first involved build and engine removal on a BMW and not to mention on a fairly small budget with minimal professional help. My current parts list consist of the following:

    -Engine
    325i (m20b25)
    Intake (port and polished), fuel rail, AFM, FPR, double sprung valve train, 120xxx miles when pulled, straight and in working order), machined head (120xxx miles when pulled also), "i" pulleys (crank, water pump, fan), 173 chipped DME-ECU, throttle body, thermostat housing.

    524TD forged crank (cleaned and inspected)

    All of such is going on my 1984 ETA block with good compression on all six and a 260 getrag tranny. I'd love any criticizm and/or help with my current build list. I read up here on the majority of what's listed. If I've forgotten anything important or just plain helpful, I'd love the input.

    -Body
    The current body will be under going a pretty extensive straightening out with a front bumper conversion to the late model valence. Still in the air what to do with the rear but I am leaning towards the conversion there to late model as well. I've done body work before and don't mind any challanges, much less the time put in. Considering euro bumpers, but so far they seem a bit on the pricey side.

    -Suspension
    As stated before, the car came lowered already, but I've already rounded up the adjustable GC Coilover conversion and am saving my precious pennies for the camber plates. I'm aiming to be fairly extreme on the suspension and this will probably be one of the last things finished when all is said and done.

    -Lighting
    This is a question area for me. I'd love to go Euro Ellipsoid-Smileys but currently have the SB Headlight plight. I'd honestly be happy with any Ellipsoid. Plans are to HID kit it. Same with the fogs. Any direction I should go or articles I should read up on more extensively too figure out the conversion and/or prices of parts? I did some searching, but didn't run across too much that I either A. Understood or B. Found helpful beyond a cursory view of the subject. Thanks again!

    That about sums it up and I'll be posting updates as it comes together and goes along. Thanks for the awesome write up's, articles and discussions that have prompted and inspired me!

    -C


    *edit*

    This is where she's starting at.

    Note: I re-sprayed the grills and front rub strips for shits and giggles. Same with the kidney black out... surprisingly the front turn signals still shine through nicely at night even though their blacked out dramatically.











    Last edited by ck_taft325is; 10-29-2009, 04:05 AM.
    Need a part? PM me.

    Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

    #2
    I don't know much about the 524TD cranks other than you can use them, so there is little I can say on that.

    This might help as far as the light swap...

    Originally posted by payney8
    We heard economics is american for card game t/f ? :P

    Comment


      #3
      I did the 2.7L stroker...never felt it without a 272 cam...but i threw a reground 272 from IE on mine since I had everything apart...I love IT!!!! I just still need to get rid of the 2.93 open diff.
      (SOLD) 1988 327i Build Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=155086
      1970 Gruppe 2 2902 M20 Turbo Build: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=373891

      Comment


        #4
        Where you running a S-ETA? I hoping for a night and day difference in power. I had a '88 iS and man, I miss it. Previous owner put a cam, chip and coil overs on it. He claimed 162 RWHP but I can't verify that. I've got no illusions about this bringing my ol' '84 anywhere near where the '88 iS was, but I figure it'll get me in the 145 WHP range from what I've seen. Specially with the more or less engine rebuild.

        I'll look into a cam while I'm doing it though. The 272 is the recommended route?

        Yeah, 2.93 open diff. hurts. I have a 3.73 LSD in the garage and a 4.10 LSD at a buddies that whines a bit...
        Need a part? PM me.

        Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

        Comment


          #5
          So, finally got it pulled into the garage after a pretty harsh cleaning. Had to jump start it since I haven't driven it in nigh on 6 months and was reminded why. The engine will start fine (even after sitting for the 6 months and a dead battery) but for some reason, on idle it likes to drop off pretty harsh and then sputter out. Mind you, it did this pre-sitting for 6 months. In fact, if you where driving and where a tad slow on a gear shift, it's like the needle would plummet and just shut off. Per se, coming to a stop light, push the clutch in, bam, before you can finish taking it out of gear it would die unless you where feathering the gas peddle just slightly. Any ideas? I was thinking idle control valve right off, but I'm not positive.

          In regards to the re-build, I'm wondering if this problem would be "solved" via a rebuild and the "i" 2.7l stroke done too it or if this is potentially something else I should deal with. Not a pressing matter as I'm just going through the business of disassembly. More a curiousity than anything else.

          Thanks.

          -C
          Need a part? PM me.

          Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post


            Whats the car in the background?

            Good luck with the build.

            1988 325iC Project - FINISHED!
            Build Thread: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...ht=325iC+paint

            Comment


              #7
              That was my old 1973 Mercedes 300 SEL after some dickwad rear ended me going 65 in a then brand new Ford F-250. Engines been rebuilt from the ground up essentially by my Step Grandfather. It's a shame it's still sitting there. Never could find anyone to take it off my hands and frankly, it's still sitting in my buddies drive way. Engine ran like a champ. Transmission went wonky shortly after I got rear ended. Lost interest and frankly, in WA parts are harder to come by than when I lived in CA.
              Need a part? PM me.

              Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

              Comment


                #8
                Short update. Managed to staighten out the dents on both driver and pass. fenders. Mild bang out on the drivers with some bondo, will get some pictures up. Also got the interior stripped of seats, center console, and carpet. Plan on using a bit of goof off to peel most of the carpet glue up and rhino line it. Turns out the PO dropped some change while he was fiddling. Found myself $5.31. Score.

                Next too come off is the hood, fenders and then I'll start in on my shabby little ETA... not to mention my sweet found fortune. I'll drive my wife's Alero to Taco Bell and treat her to the dollar menu tonight, boys!

                -C
                Need a part? PM me.

                Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by ck_taft325is View Post
                  ... not to mention my sweet found fortune. I'll drive my wife's Alero to Taco Bell and treat her to the dollar menu tonight, boys!
                  -C
                  You go boy! Same technique I use on Mrs. Funcrew - the 39-cent crunchy tacos make 'em wobbly-kneed every time.

                  Oh, and good luck with the car, too.
                  "If the sky were to fall tomorrow, the tall would die first."

                  -Dr. Paul Forrester



                  Do I LOOK like I need a psychological evaluation???

                  Comment


                    #10
                    She was stoked, I wont lie. "Taco Bell?? Oh baby, you might have a crush on me"

                    P.S. - I have the coolest wife. She's helping me with the engine removal and body work. Not to mention she's excited to do so. I <3 my Czech wife.

                    Picture updates to come. Bit hectic at the moment with a new baby etc. Hope to get pictures up.

                    Been considering a few engine alternatives in case my ETA block is a bit worn. Any suggestions on different swaps using primarily the same harness? I've got the option of an '89 5 Series block. I believe that that's an M30? I'm not positive though. Any suggestions or opinions welcome.

                    -C
                    Need a part? PM me.

                    Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Also, does anyone have a gasket list laying around from one of their builds? Which to order, how many, etc etc? I assumed pretty much everything, but I may be missing a few. I'd love to have something to cross reference.
                      Need a part? PM me.

                      Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Sorry for the lack of photo updates. My camera has been hijacked by the Mother to be a continually annoyance to my new born baby. (Grandma and her camera antics)

                        So! It turns out my buddy who is selling me the '89 325i Head and 524TD forged crank already had the head surfaced and pressure tested (Score!). It is a complete head but he said the only thing the head doesn't have is the rocker guides. I'm assuming (big assumption as I don't know exactly what the rocker "guides" are) that the "guide" is the rocker shaft (BMA.com part #BMW010810). Any clarification would be really helpful.

                        I've got the car in the garage, pulled and straightened the fenders and hood. Should I in fact pull the block with the tranny or leave the tranny alone?

                        -C
                        Need a part? PM me.

                        Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                        Comment


                          #13
                          November 2nd Work:

                          Short little picture update...

                          Some of the body work I've got to smooth out. Still unclear as to what or how the PO managed these...




                          After some working over. These are actually done now, I'll take the camera out and get some of the finished and primed product a bit later today:




                          Front end? What front end?



                          Talk about a DIRTY valve train. Note the new head bolt? When I purchased ol' "Tom" here, the PO claimed the small rock concert coming from the valves was simply a case of "slight valve adjustment" as he'd already done the "bulk of the adjusting already". Well, after I got it home and took yonder cover off, guess what I found? A sheared off HB floating in the exhast valve springs closest too where it should be living. I'm so happy he knew, "exactly what I (he) was doing" and helped me out prior to sale...



                          Getting ready to get this bitch off and taken apart.

                          Last edited by ck_taft325is; 11-09-2009, 02:06 PM.
                          Need a part? PM me.

                          Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Pictures tomorrow. Head's off. Despite the nasty top end the bottom end was incredibly clean. A tiny bit of hazing but you can still clearly see the factory scoring on the cylinder walls.

                            Just had my 524TD forged crank, "i" head (cam, valves, intake, fuel rail) dropped off. Have to order new piston rings, block seal/gaskets and of course the top end gaskets. Turns out the 885 valves are missing the valve guides. So, I'll have to order them as well. Don't suppose anyone knows for sure which I need on the 885 setup?
                            Need a part? PM me.

                            Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Project is on hold due to weather. It's tits-cutting-ice cold. Even in my fully insulated garage with an electric space heater going it barely gets above 40 degrees.

                              Body work was cruising until the weather. Decided on flat-green for the budget primer/paintjob. I'll tent and lay it down in the garage come spring if it's warm enough. There was a nifty bit of rust around the driver side tail light I scraped down.

                              Block is still strapped to the car but ready to come out. Pulled the ECU and ETA harness out. There's quite a few parts I still need in terms of putting it all back together. Decided too tear the block down all the way and start fresh with new rings, seals and gaskets since turbo's are in still in my dreams.

                              Looking at picking up a s5x something or another. Have a friend with one in his garage mated to a manual 5 speed. Going to try and convince him to let me do work on his house in exchange for a discount of sorts or even direct trade. We'll see how that goes, heh.
                              Need a part? PM me.

                              Get your Bass on. Luke's r3v Boxes are here: http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=198123

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X