My 1988 325 track build

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  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1
    What did you go with?

    I need to catch up on your thread, but I end up browsing from my blackberry most of the time and there is an issue with data handling on the 9700 bold, so I get page load errors if there are a lot of pics.

    I'll check it out from work.
    GCs and shortened Konis. I posted a thread in member's rides a few days ago too.

    Is it okay to run without them?
    It's fine, all they do is keep the rotors warm for street driving. On a track car, you probably don't want them unless you use them to run brake ducts.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by ahriley91
    So true. Nice build by the way.
    Thank you.

    As to budget, I have a self-imposed (and maritally-enforced) restriction as to funding. No part of this build (other than maintainence costs) can come from "general" funds at our house. Everything has to be financed through scrapping out cars from the junkyard, selling parts, or general craftiness. Even the car was bought that way.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    P.S. beat you to suspension. ;)
    What did you go with?

    I need to catch up on your thread, but I end up browsing from my blackberry most of the time and there is an issue with data handling on the 9700 bold, so I get page load errors if there are a lot of pics.

    I'll check it out from work.
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    If I were you I'd remove those rotor heat reflectors.
    Is it okay to run without them?

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    If I were you I'd remove those rotor heat reflectors.

    P.S. beat you to suspension. ;)

    Leave a comment:


  • ahriley91
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    If you actually stay within your budget, you are not a true car enthusiast. True story.
    So true. Nice build by the way.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Got some things installed...

    Rear strut tower bar, Bilstein rear struts (on new M3 cabrio RSMs), and H&R Sport rear springs.

    Also re-assembled my rebuilt/powdercoated rear brakes.





    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    If you actually stay within your budget, you are not a true car enthusiast. True story.
    I know, I know.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    If you actually stay within your budget, you are not a true car enthusiast. True story.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Bumper mounts arrived (had to buy them from someone other than who I bought the bumpers from, due to him flaking on me):



    Painted my rotor hats (unnecessary, I know, but I had nothing else to do):



    Painted my grill and kidneys:





    Grill is satain black (John Deere Blitz Black) and kidneys are gloss black.

    I also ordered new control arms, control arm bushings, tie rods, and front sway bar mounts. It was not in the budget, but it needed to be done before I put the car back together.

    Leave a comment:


  • EtaSport
    replied


    should find them there.

    Saw everything in that post. head looks to be fine. I am okay for that weekend, saturday will work.

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  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by EtaSport
    You may want to look into the bmp polyurethane boot covers for the tie rods and control arms. Cheaper alternative if you dont want to replace them.
    Links to where to buy?

    Did you see my info about what I have bought for the engine work? I posted it in your "work wanted" thread. Are we still on for the weekend after next? If so, which day do you prefer?

    Leave a comment:


  • EtaSport
    replied
    You may want to look into the bmp polyurethane boot covers for the tie rods and control arms. Cheaper alternative if you dont want to replace them.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Well, today was interesting. Two steps forward and one step back.

    I managed to strip the rear brakes (the retainer screws were not even tight!!) and to completely remove the front strut assemblies. The rears were cake, but the front was another story.

    First, the rotor screws in the front were locked up, do I had to remove the rotors and drill the screws. Not a big deal, but a pain.

    Next, the tie rod ends were not hard to seperate from the strut housing, but one of the ends spun with the nut, so I had to lock it down with vice grips to remove the nut. In popping them out, I had to pretty much squash the grease fitting, so I may need ne tie rod ends- which were not in the budget at this time.

    Next was the control arms. They were a real b!tch. It took over an hour of pounding on the ie rod puller, and in the end, I smashed the grease fittings on those as well- ALSO not in the budget at this time. It took 5 good whacks with a real sledge to break them loose. I was trying to be careful with a hand sledge, but after a while, I gave up and just bashed the hell out of the end of the puller.

    Mission accomplished, but at what cost? I had planned to replace the CAs, CABs, and TRs in a few weeks, since I have my hands full with all of the rear end bushings. Now it may be up on stands for a while longer than I had planned, as I just don't have the $$$ to do all of that right now.

    I was hoping to have her up and running for an event on 05.15, but that is looking doubtful.

    I also removed my front sway to swap in a 'vert sway bar.





    Last edited by phenryiv1; 04-27-2010, 10:28 AM.

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  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    You probably won't notice urethane CABs, not nearly as much as urethane subframe bushings at least. I did OEM M3 control arm bushings ($30, offset and solid rubber), you won't notice much of a difference between those and urethane ones.
    For the sake of getting on track, I think I may hold off on all of the rear-end work and just do the suspension and brakes, motor work, and shifter before my event on 05.15. After that shakedown, I will go back in and do bushings and brake hardlines.

    Leave a comment:


  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    Originally posted by phenryiv1
    No, stock. I considered urethane but figure new stockers are a significant upgrade over worn stockers but without the harshness of urethane. When I do the CABs, I plan to do urethane.
    You probably won't notice urethane CABs, not nearly as much as urethane subframe bushings at least. I did OEM M3 control arm bushings ($30, offset and solid rubber), you won't notice much of a difference between those and urethane ones.

    Leave a comment:


  • phenryiv1
    replied
    Originally posted by einstein57
    oh the memories. are you installing urethane subframe bushings?
    No, stock. I considered urethane but figure new stockers are a significant upgrade over worn stockers but without the harshness of urethane. When I do the CABs, I plan to do urethane.

    Leave a comment:

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