My 1988 325 track build

[phenryiv1]

So true. Nice build by the way.

Thank you.

As to budget, I have a self-imposed (and maritally-enforced) restriction as to funding. No part of this build (other than maintainence costs) can come from "general" funds at our house. Everything has to be financed through scrapping out cars from the junkyard, selling parts, or general craftiness. Even the car was bought that way.

[Wh33lhop]

What did you go with?

I need to catch up on your thread, but I end up browsing from my blackberry most of the time and there is an issue with data handling on the 9700 bold, so I get page load errors if there are a lot of pics.

I'll check it out from work.

GCs and shortened Konis. I posted a thread in member's rides a few days ago too.

Is it okay to run without them?

It's fine, all they do is keep the rotors warm for street driving. On a track car, you probably don't want them unless you use them to run brake ducts.

[phenryiv1]

It's fine, all they do is keep the rotors warm for street driving. On a track car, you probably don't want them unless you use them to run brake ducts.

If I plan to drive this on the street as well, should I keep them or chuck them?

[Wh33lhop]

Mine are gone, and my car hasn't seen any track time.

[phenryiv1]

Mine are gone, and my car hasn't seen any track time.

'Twould be a shame, as I paid millions of dollarz for the custum paint job.

[phenryiv1]

Made some more minor progress last night. Rear UUC stainless outer rear lines installed, powdercoated brake calipers installed, and PBR rear rotors installed.

Still have to install the rear pads and wear sensors, but that will be a 10-minute process.





After installing the brakes, I test-fit my 15 x 6.5 25ET Hartage reps. Offset does not look like 25mm from the front, but it measuers out to be 25MM (or darn close) when compared to a stock basketweave. The offset was not clearly marked on the wheels, but there was a 25 on each wheel (no "ET" stamp beside it) near the size stamping.





Now to get tires mounted, CAs, CABs, and railing arms installed...and front calipers/lines/rotors/pads, and...

[gp.plus]

Thank you.

As to budget, I have a self-imposed (and maritally-enforced) restriction as to funding. No part of this build (other than maintainence costs) can come from "general" funds at our house. Everything has to be financed through scrapping out cars from the junkyard, selling parts, or general craftiness. Even the car was bought that way.

:nice: lol, thats the rule at my house as well.. cool build, I am doing many of the same things myself.

[dinanm3atl]

Looks great so far!

[phenryiv1]

Looks great so far!

Thanks!

Your car's progress is quite impressive as well. I've been following your thread.

[phenryiv1]

Control arms, poly CABs, and new trailing arms installed. I hacksawed and hammered the old CABs from the mounts and pressed in the new ones by hand.





As for the 327i build, everything came out easily, but nothing was installed (more on that later).







My garage is a mess with little chance of improvement any time soon.

[phenryiv1]

'vert front sway bar installed. New Endlinks as well:

[phenryiv1]

Picked up another head. Last one needed machined, and I don't have the time for that if I want to have the car ready for the next track day.







This one is dirtier (far dirtier) but the machinist checked it over yesterday and said it would work after light cleaning on my part.

[phenryiv1]

Got some major work done over the last few days (pics to follow), but also suffered a setback.

Got my front Bilstein Sport struts and H&R Sport springs, rebuilt front calipers, Brembo rotors, UUC front lines, and Mintex (not what I really wanted, but I bought them before I knew better) pads installed.

Also installed my 3.73 LSD today.

Now the bad news: At least one- maybe two- of the valves are bent.

I am starting to wish I had never started the 327i build. First off, my car would be ready for the autocross this weekend had we not pulled the stock SETA head last week, and now I am spending more money than I wanted in machine work on the head. Counting the head cost and machine costs, plus the cost of all of the 327i refresh parts and add-ons (DME, cluster, gaskets, TB, water pump, T-stat), I really wish that I had run the stock motor and sourced an M50 or a complete M20B25 for a swap.

I will have about $200-250 in machine work plus $100 in the head. For that, I really could have either bought the M50 and built a swap harness or could have sourced an M20B25 that needed minor refreshing. I'll have slightly more power than the stock B25, but the journey has been less fun than I thought.

Sure the 327i build has taught me about the car and I will have a "known" motor when done, but I just question my own judgement in taking this route.

[Wh33lhop]

Don't question yourself, just follow through. I can't tell you how many times I thought to myself "this sucks balls, I never should have started this" in the middle of my 3-month long M50 swap. But in the end I'm very glad I did it.

Also, while I know it's more $$$, if I were you I might be looking into a Schrick 272 or 284/272 while you've got the head out... it's what I'm considering for my super eta.

[phenryiv1]

Got my Azenis mounted and balanced today: