Last time the engine was running, (fall of ’09) heater fan only ran on highest setting – which meant the coil pack needed replacement. Fan worked at all speeds afterward.
Another issue while engine was running dealt with the oil pressure light and engine temperature gauge. The oil pressure light would slowly fade on, then off, then slowly fade back on and stay that way. The engine temp gauge would just rise a bit and stay there. I had installed the sensor connections wrong – so they needed to be switched. Luckily, I was able to squirm my hand under the intake runners just enough to get at the temp sensor on the head. Success. Afterward, oil light went out after a few seconds – and temperature gauge needle rested at dead-middle position after warm up.
Went about performing ‘dual trunk light’ modification. Used a length of speaker wire and radio shack terminals. Heat shrink tubing. Extra light sourced from a yard car.
Discovered ability to do simple electric function testing by running jumper cables from daily driver battery to the e30 battery terminal cables hanging in the trunk. (wanted to put off buying a new battery until the car was up and fully running)
Next up: headlight wiring. This car had come equipped with sealed beam lamps – which used different terminals than the euro (albeit cheapy depo) headlamps I was going with. Basically, I just wanted to see them work. One bummer about doing this swap involves OE terminals and wiring needed for factory appearance. While no one part is expensive – if you need 8 wires and 4 connectors, the sum of the parts add of fast. So yeah, $70-$80 for wire connection parts was a purchase I was putting off. In the meantime, speaker wire and radio shack terminals are used to check functionality.
Had to fiddle with the relays a bit. That purple-colored relay broke when I originally tried to remove it. After that, different relays with the same (dpdt?) diagram on them were tried without success. It wasn’t until I installed an OE purple relay from a yard car that both low and high beams would work.
With the relays sorted – a jumper wire was installed in order for fog lamps to work with high or low beam setting.
And yes - obsessiveness led me to replace all fuses with new ones.
It was reaching a point in the project that I realized how great a folly it would be for me to continue working on the car without having a better sense of engine health.
So this is me - performing my first compression test. Pretty straight-forward procedure. Various online guides were consulted. Number 11 fuse was pulled as the engine was running. This cut power to the fuel pump. After a few seconds, the engine died. With fuel supply cut off, compression tests were performed on the four cylinders.
HUGE sigh of relief from results - they were all within one pound of each other. (174, 175, 175, 175)
With reassurance of solid compression numbers, work on Coil On Plug conversion began. I’d read enough stories and project threads to be confident that a COP set-up was worthwhile. For me, it was an optimization thing. I wanted the car to run and drive as optimally as possible. Stories about significant improvements from simply installing new plug wires really sold me. With COP, those wires that deteriorate are removed from the equation.
Scored the COP bracket from some guy on m42 club long ago.
Scored the actual coil packs from Rob - also on m42 club. Was bummed they weren’t Bremis, but it’s one of those deals where they should still be an improvement from the factory set-up using remote coil packs and plug wires.
Putting better finish on the bracket.
Was vary careful and methodical throughout test fitting.
Took so much courage for me to start cutting into the ignition wire insulation..
Full mock-up stage. I want to test-run the engine at this point before hacking up the wires to proper length.
Because the car wouldn't have an air bag wheel - and because I'd be doing mild 'shaving' to remove factory ignition coil brackets - I opted to start removing air-bag-trigger hardware from the engine compartment. While I was at it, stickers were removed because they add unneeded weight.
Hooking up horn button.
Sweet. Now I can toodle my horn trumpet with great vengeance and furious anger.
Swapped in a new sub. That Fozgate was toast.
Tearing the interior out - must be the forth time by now. As much as I loved the houndstooth door cards, I wasn’t happy with use of two patterns – and the two different shades of tan. Plus there was a laundry list of subtle, various changes to incorporate and/or finish..
A prior mechanic must have jerked the driver's seat out - without disconnecting the seat belt light wiring. A replacement section sourced from a yard car.
A yard visit once rewarded me with a buttonless console from an early model. After looking over thousands of e30 pics - I found myself gaga over the clutter-free look. This pic is after I pulled it from deep storage. Had been waiting years to install it. It was grungy - but cleaned up well.
One of the mission statements I had for the car was for 'everything to work'. Evidently, the original antenna unit had failed - and someone had cut the antenna cable - thinking it was necessary in order to install an aftermarket replacement.. then gave up after realizing the antenna cable was shielded.
Scored a working OE shadowline hirschmann unit for a great price in r3v's classified section. Opened it up to inspect it. Everything was in good order.
Installed the hirschmann. Unmolested antenna wiring from a yard car connected and routed into the cabin.
Buttoned the area back up..
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