s50b32 e30 325i tech1 project

[ChaseN]

Nice build! I love how clean everything is, great work man. Thesse cars turn into beasts with this motor!

Even cheaper if you know where to look. The ression and a desperate race car owner was the reason I got mine.
However 6k US is cheaper than the 10-15k the US has to pay normally for euro M engines. But yeah I get what you mean .. it still aint no free lunch by any means.

No one in the US is spending $10k on a euro s50. Prices here are in the 6-8 range, depending on miles & what transmission you're getting with it.

[HybridNz]

this again ..

[HybridNz]

Out on the track

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi--XjCdJ-8

[James Crivellone]

What did you do to get the GT1 software working on the CarSoft dongle?

[Apps]

Awesome e30! In fact my favorite e30...hopefully I can emulate parts of this car.

[HybridNz]

So was messing around and got GT1/DIS44 working finally with the Carsoft interface.


Also managed to buy a new set of tyres which fit a lot better and allow me to turn full lock without touching. Which will allow me to have the car certed. Yay.
My spare set of LMs with FK-452 18x8.5 on 225/35r18


Going to send this set in to have curb rash removed and cleaned up a tad. then its time to roll the fenders and lower. I currently have the shocks wound up to the hardest setting to reduce travel .. its solid as s**t and not much fun on the back however will put this back once fenders are rolled. Its gonna be tight but worth it I think. Also note stack of sacrificial rubber :ph34r:

[HybridNz]

So was messing around and got GT1/DIS44 working finally with the Carsoft interface.





Also managed to buy a new set of tyres which fit a lot better and allow me to turn full lock without touching. Which will allow me to have the car certed. Yay.
My spare set of LMs with FK-452 18x8.5 on 225/35r18




Going to send this set in to have curb rash removed and cleaned up a tad. then its time to roll the fenders and lower. I currently have the shocks wound up to the hardest setting to reduce travel .. its solid as s**t and not much fun on the back however will put this back once fenders are rolled. Its gonna be tight but worth it I think. Also note stack of sacrificial rubber :ph34r:

[HybridNz]

double post sorry

[NastyNate1]

Gotta say the last 11 pages were stunning most likely the best build thread ive seen.

[Iain]

I like your shifter. DTM set-up, yo?

[CorvallisBMW]

I've got to do the window switch swap, thanks for such a good writeup!

[benge100]

Just read all the tread,

Breathtaking !!!!

Great work....

[HybridNz]

So today thanks to Ray @ Hellbm (http://www.hellbm.com) converted my horrible e30 window switches to then nice 'click' feel of the e36 switches.

I first tried some green base switches which as I found out dont work. This is because the later model switches are infact digital encoder switches and only tell the general module (GM) to activate the electric window relays. E30's obviously didnt have such technology so I went for a white base switch.




So I decided to include a small write up to help others, this also includes a wiring diagram from the info I had at hand.

Green base switches (dont use these! :) )


Green base digital encoder


Green base pulled apart




White base switch (Use this or Blue base). Notice the thicker wiring


Inside the switch


Proper high current switch contacts to deal with the current from the electric window motors.




Before starting any of this DISCONNECT YOUR BATTERY FROM THE TERMINALS
My brother has had a high current burn before and it burnt a hole right through his hand once, crossing these wires will do the same if you short them

So lets get started,

Remove the gear shifter boot. and remove the e30 window switches, unplug the e30 loom end and we cut the plug off.





Twist the wires on following the wiring diagram carefully. Use electrical tape to shield the wires from each other (make sure you have it all covered) and reconnect the battery, turn the key to postion 2, and test you windows. You should also have the LED light up (you switch should glow)



After this, disconnect the battery and tin / solder all wires on the switches and e30 loom end.

Right nows the time to enlarge the switch hole in the console to fit the larger e36 switch. I took my time with this and used a half round/flat file. I thought about using my dremel but there is a risk of over shooting the mark and cutting too much off. constantly test fit the switch and surround



BEFORE you solder the wires together, run them through the enlarged hole. You dont HAVE to do this .. but it makes it easier to locate the switch.

Use heat shrink and a heat gun to shirnk up the tubes.CAREFUL DONT MELT YOU CONSOLE! :)



Repeat all of this for the other side, obviously following the wiring diagram to suit your switch type. My second switch was from the rear e36 switch panel so it had different colours I have included it in the wiring diagram.





Put it all back together and reconnect the battery and test.

All Done! :)

[HybridNz]

First off, having a full functional ODBII port in the e30 has maximum novelty factor and its not wearing off! :)

Was mucking around tonight checking the live data and decided to give the car a scan to see what had popped up over the past month and a bit.

error 42 translated means speed signal was interupted at some point.

error 48 translated means the Air-con relays aren't responding, thats cause there are none :)

I also reset the service interval




Faults cleared and only the air conditioning relay fault (which the car doesnt have) so im happy with that) I will continue testing to see if the other error comes back. Its not a major however is just the speed sensor.

[Mr. Horsepower]

That would be the small thing laying on the outside of the fan right?
With one cable in and one out.