If this is your first visit, be sure to
check out the FAQ by clicking the
link above. You may have to register
before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. To start viewing messages,
select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
1991 BMW 325i Coupe - Build Thread - The end is in sight!
So got the last of my current order with Steve back today. This guy stuck like 6 of his business cards in the box. :rofl: Guess that means I should hand them out. Also got the tii reservoir. A bit of bad news is that I took the m50 alternator to autozone and it failed according to their alternator tester machine thing. the guy said it was only halfway trustworthy though. So i am not really sure what to make of it. Its a Valeo part - anyone know the stock amperage, cause he pulled up 5 different ones ranging from 90A to 120A, we tested it at both values and it failed at both values. So not sure what I am gonna do about it yet. Probably take it somewhere for a second opinion. So a due date for this swap has been marked for early August (like the first week or so) So I have plenty of time to get stuff ready.
Started my internship today. :) life is definitely going to be stressful for the next few months but thats how i like it.
So I have an exam Tuesday night and I start my internship on Monday, so this is the last big update until probably next weekend. The goal of today was to get the head back on correctly, and have the engine nicely ready to go for the accessories and stuff.
A few notes:
-The Bentley really helps, especially for stuff like this that has to be precise. If you dont want to spend the money to buy one, just barrow it from your friend - like i did.
-This is one of the easiest and most straight forward heads to work on, so dont get scared off be head work.
Lets get started:
Stuff needed
-water
-small (in-lbs) torque wrench
-4 way convertors to go between thedifferent wrench sizes
-cam locks
-angle measurement tool.
-bently
-parts(head gasket, studs, coolant sensor, exhaust studs, nuts, ect)
and the head of course
first step is to pull out the gear - we just going to hold the chain up with a wire for now. Clean the head/block surface
find TDC on the block
my temporary TDC+45* mark
gently place the head gasket on the block, and put the head on
screw these bolts in where they go
dont forget to put a little oil on the bolts before you put them in
drop them into their holes after lubing them up
Torque them in at spec
tool for doing the +90* stages 2 and 3
Done
while waiting for bolts to stretch I went in and replaced the coolant sensor.
Then started putting in my exhaust studs. locktite and teh 2 nut system works well. Except I ordered 16 studs instead of 24 - herp derp
torque the little front bolts down
Next we have to install the lifters and cam trays. This is hard cause the lifter keep sliding out. The way i got around this was i rotated the block on the stand, and let gravity do teh work for me.
Layed the cams in there and started to get the cam covers on there
cams bolted in
TDC markings
cam locks on
timing gear on - remember holes go ont he left.
Main tensioner back in
Had a bag of bolts split on me, on top of the engine, got so lucky nothing fell down into the cylinders, time to put the plugs in to protect the cylinder from shit
gears, secondary tensioner, chain on
Donsky.
Next steps:
-get AC compressor tested
-get alternator tested
-order the rest of the parts for the PS conversion, and trans
-bolt on oil pan
-bolt on the rest of the junk
-get wiring harness on the engine
mad mad respect on your built....cant wait to see it when its all done now, keeps us up to date
Thanks. :D
Today was a pretty shitty day. 100* outside, lots of rush our driving, plenty of dumb people, and lots of chemical solvents. Unfortunately when you are poor you end up spending a lot of time doing inglorious stuff like cleaning parts. Anyway enough bitching.
So dirty parts
cleaner parts
systematically cleaning parts is not just useful for the obvious benefit, but also helps you keep track of all your parts and where they go.
between this point and what came next there was a lot of annoying driving, yelling, and stupid shit. w/e
How to tap an oil pan for a turbo drain:
use a step bit and puta hole in the pan - preferably between bolts on the right side of the engine (as thats where the turbo goes.
Since the stuff I am using came from a hardware store it is NPT thread - that means you need an NPT tap, specifically 3/8"-18 tap. These are hard to find for some reason as no HD or Lowes carry them. I had to go to ACE, as my local elliots was out of these. A 45 minute trip for a $9 tap. Pain in the ass.
takes about 20 seconds to tap the hole
Teflon tape to prevent leak the piece is a 3/8" NPT adapter with non beveled thread.
screw it in with a wrench or socket
Locktite and put a nut on the back, probably overkill, but better safe then sorry. Now tighten it all down
and if you are poor and cant do a swap and a turbo at the same time, a 20 cent plug will fill the hole for now. Dont forget the Teflon tape again.
So didnt get really a lot done today. Other then the fact I figured out how to put my head back together the right way. STrangly mindnumbing when you try to figure out how to time your engine again with the cams out. Anyway this guy has a great step by step here.
So not to make it sound like I am gay for steve bu you gotta give the guy props. I placed a large order yesterday around noon, for a bunch of random engine rebuild parts. first box came this morning while I was at work, second box should come tonight, and one straggler piece by the end of the week. How he does it, I dont know. and i didnt even pay for everthing till about 30 minutes ago.
anyway, now that the brown nosing is over. All I managed to do today is sell some stuff, and paint my valve cover. No great feat I know but it turned out well.
Small update today. Start my internship Monday, so I have till the end of the week to get some stuff done.
Couple of points.
1. I cleaned it best i can but I am still considering if I want to spray this block. What do you guys think? is it worth trying to paint it in current condition? or is just a waste.
2. Placed my engine rebuild order with Steve Peterson @ BluntTech. I can not recommend this guy enough. The degree of customer service, knowledge, and patience, really makes this a one stop shop. Take your business here. www.blunttech.com
anyway on to todays events.
Getting started - 5 gallons of soapy water, 3lb sledge, roloc pad and adapter, and a drill to spin it. Should be a good day.
so a couple of sledge swings and this bad boy popped right out...
hey man, just read every page/post, great build. Props to you doing all this on your own. I wish i knew electrical like you :) I'm ME. anyways, I have some m50 injectors in my trunk right now to go along with my cammed 2.7i and m30 AFM. Where did you get your "rebuild kit" and how much?
Btw, why didn't you powerwash your head instead of soaking it. Mine got way cleaner than yours by just powerwashing it. but i dont think mine was as dirty as yours.
I assume you are refering to the M20 head. I didnt know better, I powerwashed the m50 head :)
as far as the injector rebuild kit - great quality, great price.
Leave a comment: