1991 BMW 325i Coupe - Build Thread - The end is in sight!

[MaksV]

Another update.

First I installed a new ground cable I got for 15 bucks shipped. :) want one too? look here.




old one



new one


Next I wanted to pull out the old security system as I have no clickers for it anyway and I plan on putting in a newer system later.

dropped the try down below


and here are the brains and a ton of other shit under teh dash


what a mess but you can tell it was "professionally" installed


So being me, I just jumped in and pulled all the boxes out o there and lo and behold my car doesnt start. :facepalm:

so being an EE I started to investigate and found they put a ignition control circuit in there. So I just made myself a little jumper and put things back as they should. Just for reference if you want to put a ignition cut circuit the wire you are looking for is black with a yellow stripe - put the control circuit in line with that wire.



and here is all of it



Next : i was missing a bolt in one of my hood supports that was causing some serious gapping issues on one side. fixed that - still a gap but smaller now



Decided to clean and rewrap the old grounding wire - for a rainy day. I am such a damn pack rat.



Now for the Biggest News:


I HAVE A WORKING TUNE!!!!!!!!!


thats right kids. My car now has an Ostrich 2.0 running the stock AFM but adjusted to take advantage fo the 19lb injectors. I am still playing with itm, but the car pulls smoothly and has no CEL.

I am excited. Bring on the MAF.....







Also gauge plate came in today

[MaksV]

Just thought I would post the tune I am currently working on:

http://www.mediafire.com/?o244ox5h5cel2j4

and the 173 XDF

http://www.mediafire.com/?9tw9lc7hezy5wcn

[MaksV]

More updates and stuff.

- Did a DIY electric lock clicker thing
-put passenger seat back in
-listed more stuff for sale (CHECK MY FS THREAD IN MY SIG :D)
-cleaned up my spare head for Anthony. - he can post hsi own pics if he wants.


anyway lets get started.

DIY: Remote Electronic Locks for $25

First the kit: It is called Omega REC-43T Keyless Entry System, and you can get it off ebay. I got it from a guy called tintnelectronics. Good guy, shipped quick.

Basically this a radio frequency programable clicker. You can use this to open your car, your garage, trigger any electronically controlled device. There is nothing that makes this kit "car" specific.

First impression - Chinese quality box, but the clickers and the box feel solid. Seem to made pretty well, only time will tell. The provided instruction are good, in grammatically correct English, and all in all provide us with a good idea of how to start. Having a voltmeter helps, or you can just fallow my wire guide.






1. Remove the trunk lining between tail lights
(I dont have it in anyway so I didnt show how to do this)
These are the wires we are looking for.


2. Disconnect your battery - we will be dealing with hot wires - since the system continuously draws power - so disconnect at the source.

3. The kit comes with two bundles - here is what the basic wires will look like

4Wire bundle
OMEGA wire Color ----Car functions----Car wire color
Red ------------------+12V------------Red (antenna wire)
Black ----------------Ground-----------brown (bunch at trunk lock)
Green ------------Output 3-----------not used
Blue --------------output 4------------not used

2 Wire bundle
Green -----------Lock-------------Green and black stripe
Blue--------------unlock----------green with purple stripe

4.Our hot wire for constant 12V


5.bundle that runs to trunk lock


6.double sided tape on back of main box for attachment


7.soldering in power wire


8.box mounted


9.ground wire soldered in


10.all wires soldered in


11.and clean it up


12. Reconnect your battery - or else nothing will work.

Optional: The stock antenna is pretty short and since I cut off the extra lengths of wire anyways as I was installing it I decided to use them to extend th antenna. I then rn it around the edge of the trunk and up underneath the speaker tray area - range is good.


Done:




Locks in work:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N13QNrnpBc8

NOTE: to get no delay you need to turn the delay dial on teh board all the way counter clockwise and then click channels 1 and 2 down to the (-) notch. That smoothed out operation a lot for me.

[MaksV]

So had another mini day today.

Picked up this baby for a really good price - so the A4 is now for Sale (see FS thread)



Swapped it in - feels great.

Tuning news:
-unplugged my stock o2 sensor and put in the wideband - got a CEL but engine running right
AFR is about 12 at WOT and past 17 at idle; so clearly my tune needs a lot more work. Hopefully gonna try to put the MAF in tomorrow and see if I cant just get here running right with that already in.

Engine news:
both the crank seals are leaking oil - a lot of it. got two coolant hoses leaking coolant. This m20 needs a full on rebuild - which got me thinking.

What do you guys think? Build my m20 or m50/obd152 swap time?

[801coppertop]

I think its swap time!! Skip m50, do s5x!!

[MaksV]

I think its swap time!! Skip m50, do s5x!!

Tell you the same thing i tell everyone else who says this. Buy me an engine, gift me an engine. and I will do it.

[1mz]

First off - fantastic thread man. Tons of useful information/pictures that will inevitably help with my suspension build. And to cap it off - I just discovered that I have a keyless entry unit (the very same as yours) in my trunk uninstalled and now I have a complete wiring diagram! Win!

Second - take your time as you have done so far on whatever route you go, definately the difference between success and failure. I say go m50, IMO if the m20 has to come out anways, you can find a 24v motor to replace it for the cost that you would incur to rejuvenate it.

Good luck either way and keep up the awesome thread

[MaksV]

I know how you guys love teasers so here is one for you:



more info coming tonight.

[MaksV]

just thought I would leave this here

[MaksV]

so got the engine clean(ish), and moved into storage. Ran into a few small roadblocks but at the end of the day its in there. Big thanks to my roomate for letting me barrow his truck, it would have been impossible to do it with one truck.

a few pieces of information
-the bolts that go into the engine from the engine stand are 80mm M12 with 1.75pitch. for future generations

other stuff I got in the deal




will part that stuff out later.

Day started with some construction - gotta build this stuff- final product


decided to pull the flywheel and junk off while it was in the bed, to make hooking to the stand easier


home Depot rapes you - 2 bucks a piece. can only fit three though


going to carwash


we washed a lot of stuff off this engine - pretty nasty




decided to bolt the plate to the engine first and then just slide it into the stand.


Dad getting the hoist up.


and bam. I can fly



my new home



Now I gotta set up some lights and shit, and get to work.

[rotarievtec]

Harbor freight engine hoist FTW. Got mine in baltimore for 135 bucks.

[MaksV]

Harbor freight engine hoist FTW. Got mine in baltimore for 135 bucks.

got you beat $99 with coupon. :)

[MaksV]

Swap Build day 2. Got some more work done tearing this bad boy apart.

Good News and Bad news.

actually i am not really sure how to classify any of it but whatever.

-there is grass and shit inside my head(above my valves)
-so the head is coming off to be cleaned - and properly checked out.
-also there was absolutly an oil leak at some point some where
-engine is still dirty as shit

I think I will spend one day cleaning for every day I spend taking stuff apart. anyway the sequence of todays events....

the day starting
\

pulled out the ancient oil filter - didnt look that bad.


trash bucket


parts to clean


this little hose is fucking solid - had to cut it in half to get the injectors rail out... nuts



Coils and injector rail are out. Need tot test the coils. believe it supposed to be about .8 ohms across all of them. Not sure if I want to rebuild the stock injectors or get 19# units - they are cheap and flow a little better. worth it ? what you guys think?


here is the intake manifold....except after i pulled it off, I found I had more of this shit inside my head. Made me sooo angry.


and out of the car.



Next i decided to yank teh stock headers



and the studs are gone


and took the engine arms off. the right side is a pain cause of teh dipstick


e30s have nice large trunks


all done for the day


and it works as a shelf for when you need to go short distances.



thats it for today. Trying to figure out what I am gonna do with the steering rack choice..

[MaksV]

Well today started pretty shitty but the day got better exponentially.

So first I decided to take the stuff I had already removed home and clean it all up. Cleaning is the single most time consuming part of engine work I think.

measured the coils. All of them were at .9 ohms so all is well....or so i thought.



I started taking them apart to clean them and inspect all the connector boots - theya re all cracked or falling apart - another 40 bucks that needs to be spent


and then life got worse - as I pull on one of the boot the whole coil falls apart. I am strong but not strong enough to pull apart ceramics, so there had been a crack there.....


perfect another 50 bucks for a new coil.

the 5 remaining good coils.


worked the injectors out of the fuel rail and pulled off the electronics. I have a new harness coming in o this is going into the back of the shed for now


I decided to rebuild these - that will be easy, I have done it before, or so I thought.

Manifold sans throttle body.


damn even the throttle body was filthy. I swear they dragged this motor through used oil, and then rolled it around in dirt.


cracking old seals out of intake mani


throttle body - cleanish


intake manifold - cleaner


so I got my screw and vice, my pick, and got ready to take the injectors apart. All the pintle caps, o rings, and stuff came off with no problem. Then I got around to taking the old filters out. On the 19# ford injectors I rebuild for my m20 this was a breeze. Screw a screw into the filter put it in a vice and pull. They all popped out.


Only 3/6 popped out this time.The metal rims that keep the filters in didnt come out. Now I am really pissed, worst case i buy some new injectors (chea) but I dont like to lose. Then i rembered I own a power drill. found a bit that fits perfectly, and bam - no more metal rings.

ready for new hardware


at this point I am done cleaning. I decided I had time to go do some more work on the engine.

First things first. I brought extnsions with me so I could pull the plugs.

Does not look promising - oil everywhere.



time for teh valve cover to come off. At this point I am expecting the worst - destroyed cams, dirt, animals living in there. Everythign.



here is the valve cover



here we go. a little caked oil, but for an engine sitting for 2 years with no turning over this is ok. Chain looks good,


and BAM! the cam lobes are perfect, not even the tinyest bit of wear. My day is starting to get better


got the cover off. What is this for anyway?


didnt realize there was still oil in htere. Not one of my brightest Ideas, but thats what that metal thing is for


time to attack the oil pan



So i got all the bolts off around the sides, and it was still stuck. wouldnt come off. I figured it wouldnt hurt to remove this oil sensor.


now I am pretty upset so far at this point and the oil pan just refuses to come off. Then I get an email that makes my day perfect, but more on that later.

So i take a step back, get a drink of water, and come back, and look. Seems like the PS pump is in the way.

pulled one bolt and let it flop on its side


and voila. oil pan off.



crank looks like a crank. Turned it over a few time - couldnt find any obvious cracks, breaks, chips, ect/. that will have to do for now.



oil pump nut is where it is supposed to be. Not sure how i will treat this just yet.


I was able to get some of the gasket off - virgin metal



That email I got early was an offer for an excellent internship. I was worried about how I was gonna finance this expedition, but now I have an excellent answer. Progress may be slowed slightly but the financial bump will feel great, and allow me to do stuff right.

Plans:
- soda blast the valve cover and oil pan.
-tap oil pan for turbo (any pictures of the correct locations?)
-figure out the oil pump nut
- start buying stuff.

[IxTech]

boost? hell ya!

as far as oil return goes, just put it somewhere up high on the pan and make sure the bung will clear any pumps or brackets. and get a female threaded return. that way you can thread a barb in there or thread in a nice braided stainless line. or a plug for the time being.

what turbo plans do you have?