picked up a 33 year old MILF - non-e30 content
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Eventually got it started, not sure how. With no foam inside, it sounds even more like a diesel truck and I can hear all sorts of fun noises from various things. Still need to get under it and check the suspension and motor underbits.
Pics:
The front seats. Due for a re-dye, but they are surprisingly intact. Probably going to dye them black or dark brown. Blue sux. Sadly these are not the buffalo leather sport seats.

The view into the murky lake known as The Floor of My Crappy E24:

One of the foam bits that came out. Nasty:

After pulling the carpet, foam, and drying up a bit:

This is the only really bad part of the floor. Might be a gamebreaker:

Interestingly, the driver side seat mount is height-adjustable (or, it would be if the mechanism wasn't seized) but the passenger is fixed.
At this point, I cleaned up, got the seats back in, and went to check out the motor. The AFM is from a junkyard '78 euro 633csi. Hawkward. Do you think this intake boot leaks air? (yes it does)

Distributor cap. 5 is on the bottom, pattern is correct. Plug wires are done for...

Am I missing something here?

The plugs are Autolite 64's. All 6 are dark black and smell like oil. Looks like I will have to descend into the engine.Leave a comment:
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I had some time to tear into it today, and planned to have a go at the motor.
Instead I discovered that I inherited four lakes when I purchased this car, one in each footwell. Fuck.
Pulled seats, pulled console, pulled some random trim, basically tore out the carpet and discovered an inch of soggy foam all around. Had fun tearing that out and breathing the asbestos, but now it's clean, at least. I feel real dumb for not checking if the floor mats are dry.
In any case, after rescuing the floor of the car from sure death, I discovered that the motor does not start. It cranks, but does not catch. Some photos coming up after I check the plug order, injectors, and some other bits for functionality.Leave a comment:
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Yes, it is euro. It is a 635csi, one of the first ones. Stick 5545448 into here: http://www.bmw-z1.com/VIN/VINdecode-e.cgi
I have a couple VINs to stick in there, just spent a day working on both tags from a 66 Chevelle, that makes BMW life easy!Leave a comment:
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hokay, you want to convert to motronic apparently from the old bmw guru at work. at this time you'll be changing a cam and going to a hotter one because i said so. suspension can be attained from ST as far as springs go. he said something about dampers but i forgot already (mahbad)
if nothing else, lets build some coil overs for you good sir.
i think im more excited to live vicariously through you than you are about owning the car
Check the cam that's in it, those euros had some excitement from the factory, my friend rebuilt the engine in one and the cam was something else, that thing went like a bat outa hell even with the auto and 3.07 final driveLeave a comment:
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I'm not sure about the distributor situation, I'd have to see a picture.Chad, thanks for the info. Any idea if the motor has the necessary provisions for the sensors Motronic 1.3 requires? Will a standard 179 ECU run it, or would I need a custom chip. Will I also need a different timing cover with cap/rotor provisions, instead of the distributor BS on it now?
Besides that, it may be a bit more involved than originally had thought, based on the fact that I had done it with and early b32 and you're dealing with a little more archaic technology.
AFAIK, some of the basic things you need are, from a b35, a wiring harness, 027 afm, injectors (yellow top mustang injectors work well), the harmonic balancer, cps, cps bracket, purge valve (?), 3.0 fpr I believe (whatever the e30 one is), coolant temp sensors, and an ICV. A 179 ecu should work fine here.
Other harnesses can be used, depending on how they fit. Also you can use the original spark plug wires but the inductive pickup plug on the harness will remain unplugged. Which doesn't really matter.
This guy:
is apparently selling kits right now.
Whereas kits such as this:
pop up every so often.
I paid around $250 for the 'kit' I bought, but that was from funkmasta years ago and unfortunately we all know what happened to him.
HTH.Leave a comment:
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Is this actually feasible? Can I find an M88 head for not-hundreds-of-thousands-of-dollars?
Chad, thanks for the info. Any idea if the motor has the necessary provisions for the sensors Motronic 1.3 requires? Will a standard 179 ECU run it, or would I need a custom chip. Will I also need a different timing cover with cap/rotor provisions, instead of the distributor BS on it now?Leave a comment:
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The activation email is most likely to be found in your spambox now...Leave a comment:
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Indeed, my head has 'm90' stamped in a couple places. That doesn't mean *neccessarily* that the specs are any different.Leave a comment:
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I'm tearing my head down right now (m90) and I'll look. Paul Burke told me the head on the flat piston m90 is the same as a b34. We'll see when I pull everything apart.Leave a comment:
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Converting to motronic is relatively easy, as I'm sure you know. Keep in mind that the injectors, afm, and fpr need to be changed when you do, along with the other parts. I forgot to change my injectors and almost fried my ecu.
Also if you want to keep the bananafold (why wouldn't you?!) there was some thread talking about how you can improve the flow by installing the runners from a 320i.
If you don't keep the banananananananananafold then sell it to me because I think they look epic.Leave a comment:
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