MGB + M42 = Win

[BUDNUNTA]

What did you cut the spot welds with?

I hope you have some zinc weld primer to put on there, then seam seal
Have fun thats some dirty work

[AndrewBird]

These cars were booster-less? Lovin the progress, and diggin your affordable frame machine!

Very late model cars had a booster (75-80), but everything else did not.

[dude8383]

Got the master cylinder all cleaned and rebuilt:

http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/799...ercylinder.jpg

These cars were booster-less? Lovin the progress, and diggin your affordable frame machine!

[AndrewBird]

Got the master cylinder all cleaned and rebuilt:

[AndrewBird]

Got quite a bit done tonight. The front radiator panel was all bent up from a previous accident and botched fix job. So out it came to be replaced with a new one!

You can see the damage at the front edge.


All torn apart.


All back together.


Nothing is welded yet, but everything is fitted and lining up correctly.

Also worked on getting the frame rail back to where it should be. I got it within 1-2º of straight, but I'm out of gas for the torch, so couldn't apply heat to any of it. Once I get gas, I'll be able to move things around a lot better.

[AndrewBird]

So, a few years back I understeered into a curb in the rain. It bent the tierod and lower a-arm mount and slightly tweaked the frame. On an MGB, all of the suspension is attached to the front crossmember, so frame damage doesn't affect suspension geometry unless it is really bad. That being said, I've driven the car with this frame damage for years with no problems. Now is time to fix it.

Worst of it. It's pushed inward.




Inside the fenderwell.


Looks like the crossmember pushed back and in.


Got some wood dowels and put them in the mounting holes for the front crossmember.

Drivers side, nice and straight:


Passenger side, not so straight:


The front passenger side hole seems to be fine, but the rear is off ~5º based off a measurement with an angle finder. Front to back there seems to be no distortion. With a frame rail height of 4 inches and a bend of 5º, it means the bottom of the frame rail moved over less then 3/8". It basically went from being square shaped to trapezoidal shaped. I am just going to fix it myself with a bottle jack and a torch like this guy did:



Then weld in some reinforcement plates. Shouldn't be hard and I think will be the best fix for the situation.

[AndrewBird]

Ah, got ya. Didn't catch that.

[Jand3rson]

The engine in that pic, which I believe is an S38, is tilted straight up like your will be.

[AndrewBird]

And what does this have to do with my build?

[M42Power]

*ahem*



V.S Motor M5 e34. Untilted engine

[Kruzen]

following for sure :)

[AndrewBird]

Transmission mounts came so I started working on modifying the stock subframe to work. I set the transmission upside down sitting at the angle it will sit in the car. Then after some measurements with an angle finder, I was able to make a tube to attach to one of the mounts. This will be welded to the stock cross member when finished.



Here you can see the cutout to be able to access the nut.






It's longer then needed at this point, but I made it long so I could trim it down. I need to get it back in the car before I can figure out exactly how long it needs to be. The other mounts I can't tell anything yet either.

Oh, and disregard all the grime. It will be cleaned before it goes into the car.

[Simon S]

that's gonna be a fuckin' cool car when it's all together man.

[!kid]

It looks like in the stock position, the exhaust side would actually hold a bit of oil over the valves. Not much, but a bit. Rotating it would lessen this and only slightly increase the amount that puddles on the intake side, less then the exhaust would have in the stock position. This is very good news as I now know for a fact that tilting the engine will not cause drainage problems.

i was reading through one of my ASE books last night about this. the most common cause of oil consumption issues is bad valve guide seals and or worn guides.
"A faulty intake valve seal allows oil to be drawn into the cylinder during the intake stroke."
"This results in burnt oil exhaust smoke when the engine decelerates because the oil is not being diluted with gasoline during that time."

you should be fine mounting the engine that way, a long as your valve seals and guides are in good shape. just my

[AndrewBird]

Now you're talkin. How much torque can those rearends take?

Guys use them with Ford 302 and Chevy 3.4L V6 conversions, so enough. They are pretty bullet proof.

Sometime in the future I'd like to go to a 4-link setup in the rear and will probably swap to a Ford 9" or similar, so for now, the stock rear end isn't an issue.