first event is april 10th at monticello motor club. its gonna be a riot!
here is what i have been up to with my e30, after deal upon deal fell through.
i went and attempted an m30 swap. got it in, and had close to running but in terms of power per liter and power per pound, the m20b25 was far superior to the m30b34. the m52b28 fell through, so stock was the next option for me, being short on time.
i then sold it the swap as a kit, and put 200 into a grey market parts car, which still holds my race motor for 2012.
made 900 only so far, still have about 1700 worth of shit i can sell..
with the 900 i did this:revived an old m20b25 for this season, and scored a higher comp (9.7:1) motor from a parts car.
walls are shiny from the teflon spry i used to keep the water and rust out.
everythingwas replaced.
water pump
TB tensioner/pin/spring, belt
new CPS
new O2 sensor..
up top:
rocker plugs
valve stem seals
cam seal
cam flange oring
all intake gaskets
bitch tube orings
new coolant sensors
new oil pressure switch
new thermostat
thermostat oring
thermostat housing gasket
VC gasket
water neck gasket
bottom end
intermediate shaft seal
front crank seal
rear crank seal
oilpan gasket
new oil lever sender oring
rear and front main seal housing gaskets
new crush washers for the oilpump
cleaned oilpump (removed sludge)
new oil filter housing oring
head gasket
metric blues with new washers
i didnt want the a-typical 20 yo m20 in there, all leaky and covered in grease..
i also know how little the IE manifold will help, but i didnt have any stock ones. its mainly for weight saving (overall weight of the full exhaust is way less than oem) and looks. the ricer in me came out a little on this motor.totally re-sealed m20b25, will run batch fire ign and wasted spark and alpha~n via MS1 V3.0.
car has now
sparco bucket
PS delete using oem reservoir as an expansion tank
95 m3 steering rack
e36 tie rods
new control arms
75D poly bushings everywhere it can be used
re- done cluster
akg style race shifter
3.73 Factory LSD
sachs sport clutch
350mm nardi wheel
ac delete
tar removal
us ellipsoids
things left to do:
[ ] put motor and trans in
[ ] modify motor mount arms to sink motor back 2 inches
[ ] put in the auto power 6pt
[ ] buy harness
[x] buy calipers for hydro ebrake (using wilwood 120-9689)
[x] buy handbrake setup (asd pull up)
[ ] mount lines for hydro ebrake
[ ] drill and tap trailing arms for adapters
[ ] get the exhaust fabbed
[ ] re-do floor pan rust patch
[ ] remount front bumper
[ ] inspection
[ ] kill a pair of tires.
2012 race motor will be:
2.5L m20 (inline 6)
9.7:1 CR euro pistons
m52 rods, shot peened, re conditioned and polished
clevite main and rod bearings
rebuilt, ported and polished head dyno'ed to make power to 7000 rpm (done by dp2275)
shrick 288* cam
38mm itbs
ishihara- johnson teflon crank scraper
bav auto long tube headers
here is what i have been up to with my e30, after deal upon deal fell through.
i went and attempted an m30 swap. got it in, and had close to running but in terms of power per liter and power per pound, the m20b25 was far superior to the m30b34. the m52b28 fell through, so stock was the next option for me, being short on time.
i then sold it the swap as a kit, and put 200 into a grey market parts car, which still holds my race motor for 2012.
made 900 only so far, still have about 1700 worth of shit i can sell..
with the 900 i did this:revived an old m20b25 for this season, and scored a higher comp (9.7:1) motor from a parts car.
walls are shiny from the teflon spry i used to keep the water and rust out.
everythingwas replaced.
water pump
TB tensioner/pin/spring, belt
new CPS
new O2 sensor..
up top:
rocker plugs
valve stem seals
cam seal
cam flange oring
all intake gaskets
bitch tube orings
new coolant sensors
new oil pressure switch
new thermostat
thermostat oring
thermostat housing gasket
VC gasket
water neck gasket
bottom end
intermediate shaft seal
front crank seal
rear crank seal
oilpan gasket
new oil lever sender oring
rear and front main seal housing gaskets
new crush washers for the oilpump
cleaned oilpump (removed sludge)
new oil filter housing oring
head gasket
metric blues with new washers
i didnt want the a-typical 20 yo m20 in there, all leaky and covered in grease..
i also know how little the IE manifold will help, but i didnt have any stock ones. its mainly for weight saving (overall weight of the full exhaust is way less than oem) and looks. the ricer in me came out a little on this motor.totally re-sealed m20b25, will run batch fire ign and wasted spark and alpha~n via MS1 V3.0.
car has now
sparco bucket
PS delete using oem reservoir as an expansion tank
95 m3 steering rack
e36 tie rods
new control arms
75D poly bushings everywhere it can be used
re- done cluster
akg style race shifter
3.73 Factory LSD
sachs sport clutch
350mm nardi wheel
ac delete
tar removal
us ellipsoids
things left to do:
[ ] put motor and trans in
[ ] modify motor mount arms to sink motor back 2 inches
[ ] put in the auto power 6pt
[ ] buy harness
[x] buy calipers for hydro ebrake (using wilwood 120-9689)
[x] buy handbrake setup (asd pull up)
[ ] mount lines for hydro ebrake
[ ] drill and tap trailing arms for adapters
[ ] get the exhaust fabbed
[ ] re-do floor pan rust patch
[ ] remount front bumper
[ ] inspection
[ ] kill a pair of tires.
2012 race motor will be:
2.5L m20 (inline 6)
9.7:1 CR euro pistons
m52 rods, shot peened, re conditioned and polished
clevite main and rod bearings
rebuilt, ported and polished head dyno'ed to make power to 7000 rpm (done by dp2275)
shrick 288* cam
38mm itbs
ishihara- johnson teflon crank scraper
bav auto long tube headers
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