Originally posted by pharow
View Post
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
Malik's 87 325is build (DAILY DRIFT E30)
Collapse
X
-
m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
-
still in a sling. im aiming to be driving again in 3 1/2 weeks!
to keep my hopes up i ordered some goodies.
updates coming soon
bump?m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
Originally posted by Red Wing View PostNice progress man!
I just picked up an 88 325is and have close to the same aspirations as you. Been following your thread for inspiration. Keep it up.
And thanks. i kinda have a vision for this baby. although its taking a while. it will be fun in the end
so heres the damage. the next update will have
4 new suspension parts
3 small/miscellaneous under the hood pieces. very small
3 exterior changes
2 interior changes. one of which im reeeaally excited about
:DLast edited by ROLLingKING; 11-27-2011, 12:52 AM.m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
[ATTACH]49131[/ATTACH]m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
I just got a package in the mail yesterday so heres an update.......
Im still healing from my surgery so I might not be able to install some stuff. (SUCKS) but this will all be in the car asap.
Realistically, ill be able to install the sway bar reinforcements now, i hope, and the front strut bar after its painted. my shoulder might not allow me to go under the car and do the sway reinforcements. id probably be drilling the holes in the trunk bed one handed. idk how thats gonna work out.lol
And the rear shock mounts will probably have to wait till im better also. thats a little too involved for me
I will be able to install these sensors i got. the single prong is the coolant temp sensor for the gauge. the 2 prong one sends coolant/engine temp info to the fuel part of the ecu? somethin like that. i replaced the one a while back so since they looked so old i figured id replace the other two in that area
And part numbers..i was kinda confused as to which sensor was which so ill put the numbers here.
the bosch labeled packaging is the 2 prong sensor for fuel system or whatever
m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
Primer is key
So im getting right to it and painting the front strut bar and i decided to document it with step by step pics.lol as soon as i can drive my car I want to be able to enjoy it with all the parts put on. ill just take my time with installing shit. bare with me
Im starting off with some high temp primer for this one only because its going to be under the hood. I couldnt find any decent high temp paints so the primer will be the only high temp thing under there. IDK if it even matters
Heres the can
bar cleaned and ready for paint. i just hang it in the unfinished part of the basement. do what u gotta do.
1 light coat followed by a full coat of primer
Last edited by ROLLingKING; 11-30-2011, 07:29 PM.m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
second coat, gold coat, then clear coat!!!
After the primer I wanted to put on some white. that way my main color has a solid, consistent color to shine off. all cans were purchased from Lowes cause I notice they always have more options than autozone. Autozone has some decent colors, especially car specific cans, but i like the hardware stores section for parts like this.
Main color.
i thought a while on this and i hope I got it right. i kinda wanted to go blue, which will match my next parts going under the hood but idk if I would have really liked the blue or if I would got the right shade of blue. 2 shades of blue under one hood would look like shit.
so any way, more pics
lighting is dull but the metallic has a nice flaky shine
and the clear coat, this shit pulls it all together
finished pic is probably going up in the AM when i have some natural light for a better shot. might even save the pic for it installed in the bay. well see if the shoulder allows it. just thought about how goofy itll look. dirty ass valve cover, intake manifold, bay, then a fresh fat strut bar. cant waitLast edited by ROLLingKING; 11-30-2011, 10:17 PM.m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
Originally posted by 619E30 View PostLookin' good, keep up the good progress!
then ill have that dumped stance like yours!
btw did u go with the single adjustable coils or just the coilover conversion? that shit sits loooooowm20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
-
Originally posted by ROLLingKING View Post
I will be able to install these sensors i got. the single prong is the coolant temp sensor for the gauge. the 2 prong one sends coolant/engine temp info to the fuel part of the ecu? somethin like that. i replaced the one a while back so since they looked so old i figured id replace the other two in that area
And part numbers..i was kinda confused as to which sensor was which so ill put the numbers here.
the bosch labeled packaging is the 2 prong sensor for fuel system or whatever
They both go into the thermostat housing. The 1 prong sensor is more towards the front of the car and is easy to remove, it's a 2 minute job to swap. The 2 prong sensor is a bit harder to get out since the fuel rail is in the way. Some people have been able to get their sockets/wrenches/crow's foot to that one and get it out but I wasn't so lucky and I've been lazy. Most folks either remove the fuel rail or pull the thermostat housing out and do it that way.
Originally posted by ROLLingKING View PostIm starting off with some high temp primer for this one only because its going to be under the hood. I couldnt find any decent high temp paints so the primer will be the only high temp thing under there. IDK if it even matters
The paint job on the bar looks good! Hopefully it just pops on and you can install it easily with your still-recovering shoulder. I had to jack my car up by the crossmember to get the shock towers to separate enough to get my bar to fit. It was a tight squeeze.
Comment
-
strut bars struttin
kts? weve probably meet but im not sure who u are on the forum.haha
anyway, thanks for stoppin by
And yea. I had actually already replaced the 2 prong one a while ago. I dont know what I was thinking.haha I was on the phone talkin to someone else change theirs so i was like, oh i should change mine. then i saw both online and didnt look at my car before ordering.
so i got the 2 prong sensor for sale!
kts, I was able to install the rear strut bar first, then the front bar while i put in the coolant gauge sensor. The front bar was a bit tough but i just had to lean on it and it popped in. My problem is that the bar touches the motor.I just did motor and tranny mounts so i know thats where it should be. anyone else have this problem on their IE bar??
if I loosen the bolts and pull the bar up in the middle I can see it not touch. but when tight its layin on the manifold. I learned from the last bar that was in here its not good to rub and i can hear it when it rubbed.
this is the bar sold by White325is. It fit great and all the welds were nice and deep. If u get a raw one u must paint it or it rusts. which is probably why he doesnt sell em raw anymore. especially if theyre sittin around waiting for buyers. i had to sand a lil rust off the welds to clean before layin down paint
Last edited by ROLLingKING; 12-02-2011, 10:53 AM.m20 is plenty. im simply a drifter.
build thread -- http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=206510
Comment
Comment