Jeremy's "How not to build a Pro-3" thread - 2017 update!
Collapse
X
-
More updates for 2017.
Lots of body work, and (another) motor dies.Leave a comment:
-
Thanks Patrick, may take you up on that. The other concern I had is whether drilling the head of the caliper bolt might weaken the bolt (hence the bendable tabs idea..) Going to pull the wheels off anyways before ORP to inspect the rotors, calipers..etc and check the torques again.Leave a comment:
-
Don't short cut on safety, Take the time and drill the bolts with a 1/16th drill bit and use red loctite /safety wire. If you don't know how I will come do it for you and supply the safety wire. Oh, and use 0.032 safety wire not 0.020 (used for electronics and light duty hardware).^^^ well, yeah..
We had a long discussion about the caliper bolts coming loose recently, since it happened again up at Mission to a driver. Luckily it only exploded his rim and destroyed his tire. One driver had tossed out the idea of Safety Wire, I actually am going to experiement with an idea I stole from my MTB; the disc brakes have the rotor's bolt to the hub, and there is a thin bridging washer between each pair of bolts. This bridging washer has two tabs per side that are bent up and wrapped around the head of the bolt. This keeps the bolts from backing out from the constant rapid heating and cooling. I figured it wouldn't hard to adapt this to the E30 bracket... Will take pix when the final product is done.
**but let this be a lesson to anyone who races or tracks your car: before each event, crawl under the car and check the torque of all the nut's you can get your hands on!**
..and those too.
Cheers,
PatrickLeave a comment:
-
Actually, that is what I did, and slipped the O-ring over it to make it even snugger of a fit! It's worked pretty good so far even with jacking it up and down to swap wheels on and off. Eventually, I may shorten the front housing, but for now, the main goal is get the car on the track next year so I can get through my Novice races.Leave a comment:
-
Looking good sir. You can also use the factory upper spring pad on the bottom. That should keep everything in line in case you plan on doing some 'Dukes of Hazard' action.Leave a comment:
-
Yes I did - put it on the shelf for a later date.
But seriously, I have someone who's got a front panel I may grab this weekend, and then do the install correctly.Leave a comment:
-
No, there is usually one or two DNF or DNS's, so I got that on my side!Leave a comment:
-
nice build. the pro3 class is ridiculously big, im sure you wont always be in the back. :pLeave a comment:
-
I use Loctite personally.^^^ well, yeah..
We had a long discussion about the caliper bolts coming loose recently, since it happened again up at Mission to a driver. Luckily it only exploded his rim and destroyed his tire. One driver had tossed out the idea of Safety Wire, I actually am going to experiement with an idea I stole from my MTB; the disc brakes have the rotor's bolt to the hub, and there is a thin bridging washer between each pair of bolts. This bridging washer has two tabs per side that are bent up and wrapped around the head of the bolt. This keeps the bolts from backing out from the constant rapid heating and cooling. I figured it wouldn't hard to adapt this to the E30 bracket... Will take pix when the final product is done.
**but let this be a lesson to anyone who races or tracks your car: before each event, crawl under the car and check the torque of all the nut's you can get your hands on!**
..and those too.Leave a comment:
-
I already got stud's on it (thanks to TC Motorsports.) But thanks man.Leave a comment:
-
Nice build. Let me know if you are interested in a stud conversion for this bad boy.Leave a comment:

Leave a comment: