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The no longer luxorbeige or eta e30 revival - sold

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    The no longer luxorbeige or eta e30 revival - sold

    Sad update: Car was sold.

    The good news is that it was sold to an enthusiastic guy from a town an hour and a half away. While I'm sad to see the car go, after I put so much of myself into it for the last 5 years, I am happy that it has a good home, and someone will continue to build it up, make it their own, and enjoy it.

    After getting married, buying a house, and planning for a family, I just didn't have to the time and effort to put into maintaining 3 cars over 30 years of age. My wife also grew tired of the frequent maintenance and repairs to her e30, and the lack of creature comforts and safety features. We bought her a 2012 Ford Focus 5 door manual, (which will be getting h&r springs and sticky rubber), and I took over Mina, the 4 door m30 swapped car. With a usable back seat, a roof rack, and a trailer hitch, it's a more practical car to utilize as a daily driver (as opposed to the luxorbeige car). Plus, it's m30 powered :)

    I recommended the new owner join r3v, so hopefully he will start a thread here, and we can see the car in it's next stage of life.

    **************************



    Hello all. I've been lurking here for a bit, reading and gaining knowledge. I have been active on other marque/model specific forums for my other cars, and I love this place. Its informative and informal, and you guys clearly have a lot of fun.

    My project is an 87 luxorbeige eta coupe that was parked with a bad ecu over 5 years ago. The car belonged to my brother, who daily drove it through college, but started having issues with it starting/running soon after he graduated. After he got married, he pretty much stopped working on it, which is a shame, since in his few years of owning it he had done a fair amount of work/maintenance (all new exhaust, drive shaft, timing belt, water pump, a few suspension bushings, slotted rotors, all new calipers, new battery, etc). Unfortunately, since he parked the car, the exhaust rusted out, the bushings and tires are dry rotted, the rotors rusted over, and the battery froze/cracked, undoing a good amount of money he had put into the car.

    Fortunately, in the years since, he acquired and stripped two other e30's, building up a decent collection of spare parts (while regrettably letting a good deal of usable parts go to the crusher), in the hopes he would eventually get around to fixing up his car.

    Recently, after a car accident involving his wife and kids (where thank God, everyone was unharmed) he decided that even if the e30 was in a driveable condition, he wouldn't put his kids at risk by transporting them in it. (Although it was safe in its day, it is a deathtrap compared to cars with today's safety features) He finally decided to give up the dream, and asked if I would be interested in it, provided he gets to drive it from time to time when it is done.

    So for the amazing price of free, I got an 87 eta, 2 spare engines, one spare transmission, and boxes upon boxes of extra parts including glass, radiators, sensors, compressors, alternators, pumps, sensors, switches, a seat and much more.

    I spent a month or so driving an hour out to his house to get the car in decent enough condition to be sure that:
    1- it could be brought back to life, and
    2- it was worth bringing back to life.

    Its got some rough spots here and there, but considering the toll NY takes on cars, its relatively clean underneath, although the paint has become pretty crappy from sitting neglected for years.

    EDIT: Quick summary...
    The car, as it sat on day one of my revival project:
    From this:


    To this:


    To this:
    Last edited by Andy.B; 08-20-2016, 04:35 AM.

    #2
    Step one of getting this project going was to shotgun new parts at it before I even started. As with all my past aircooled vw projects, I started off by doing a good portion of the maintenance service:

    Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, oil, oil filter, valve adjustment/valve cover gasket, fuel lifter, O2 sensor, coolant flush, and thermostat.

    I also put in a dme from one of the parts cars. I opened up the old one, and there was visible corrosion on the board, so I'm surprised the car still ran with it!

    It also got the brakes disassembled, cleaned and lubricated, all new hoses (including those bastards up over the rear subframe) mostly new lines, new rotors, pads, ebrake shoes/hardware/cable's and obviously all of the fluid flushed out.

    Next was fixing some of issues, like replacing a seized wiper transmission and the now cooked wiper motor, and a new fuel level sender, new intake elbow, a new muffler and all new hangers (although its probably all coming out to replace the resonator, since by the sound of it that is empty inside. the car is rasp as heck),

    I am probably forgetting other things I've replaced by this point.

    I've done some cleaning and tidying up inside, but there is still alot to do there, including swapping out the very worn out drivers seat, and probably getting one of the bavauto dash covers to hide my shame.

    I've been piling up parts that I haven't had a chance to put on yet, like e90 top hats, an IS lip, a front valance , and some of the shadowline trim (although I am going to just paint some of it).

    The car is now running, and I've taken it around the block a few times, but the fuel pump is noisy, so I am going to be replacing that, as well as the fpr shortly, and it has somewhat of a stumble/miss when accelerating (probably low fuel pressure, but I'll be doing a leakdown test, and testing the fuel injectors, just to be sure there are no other issues).

    My goal for the car is a sporty/reliable daily driver. I am not mod crazy, but I have no problem putting money into the car for maintenance, as I want this car to truly be reliable. I'd rather fix everything up front than be chasing faults and making repairs all the time.

    The mods I do plan on making are:
    -Short shift when I rebuild the shifter
    -Slightly lower springs and new shocks. For the sake of my wallet, I was thinking about a used set of m3 springs and KYB's (since I can get them at cost through work) plus the e90 top hats for now, just to close up the wheel gap a little bit, then, come warmer weather, H&R's with bilsteins.
    -Chip the dme (but not until I have this thing purring again. Right now its running a little rough for my taste)
    -Taller rear end (I'm coming from a miata, where freeway driving means well over 4k on the tach, so a little higher will be perfectly tolerable.
    -DIY shadowline and all red taillamps

    Definitely not racecar, but I want to try to make it a little sportier than the truck height with luxorbeige style its currently got.

    If there is anything I absolutely need to be checking for, let me know. Also, suggestions for making this a comfortable but sporty daily driver are welcome!
    Last edited by Andy.B; 01-22-2012, 11:35 AM.

    Comment


      #3
      I spent hours chasing down the stumble last week. I narrowed it down to cylinder 6, and assumed the ignition system was all good since it was all new. I pulled the fuel rail to check the injectors, which looked ok, so I swapped 6 and 5 to see if the misfire moved with it. Next up I assumed it must be a wiring fault, so I checked out the wires between the dme and the injectors... all good. Fearing the worst, I did a compression test (which I should have done earlier), and got 155-170 on all cylinders. Not bad for 203k. After I was totally out of ideas, I decided it had to be ignition related, and I put on the old wires I had fortunately saved. Bingo. Brand new, genuine bosch wire was at fault. Warranty exchanged it, and the misfire was gone.

      Did some shade-tree body work on the right rear rocker and the left front fender. Sanded down the rust, and primed, rattle canned it. Even though I had the paint mixed specifically by paint code, its still not a perfect match, but looks ok from ten feet, and incredibly better than rust.

      The oil pan was stripped, so I helicoiled the drain plug threads, and stuck a new drain plug in. No more leak!

      Replaced some bad bulbs, and have all of the warning lights on the check panel out. I still need to replace the abs relay with a spare I have (if I can find it), and reset the SI, and I will have all of the warning lights out.

      Unfortunately, I ran into some issues today, when the car took its first run. Under anything but the lightest of acceleration the engine cuts out until it gets back down to approx 1k rpm. It isn't a open loop sensor issue, as it has the problem at wot and, is independent of temperature. I suspect its one of the fuel pumps dieing, and unable to supply enough fuel, but to be sure I am going to check out everything else I can think of, such as air flow meter, intake air temp sensor, throttle position switch, as well as fpr, supply pump and high pressure pump. The only other sensor I think could be culprit, but unlikely, is crank sensor. The reason I am leaning away from that sensor is the smooth idle, and the fact that it will accelerate gently and cruise once up to speed.

      Hopefully the problem ends up being the noisy suspect fuel pump, since I am going to replace that anyway...

      Comment


        #4
        I've put a tank of fuel through the car now, and although it runs fairly well, I only got about 16mpg (but to be fair, the car did spend a fair amount of time idling).

        More issues have been straightened out the past few weeks. I determined that the lift pump was bad. At idle, the supply pump was able to suck enough out of the tank, but under load it couldn't keep up on its own. A new lift pump, and it quieted right down. Fuel pressure is spot on.

        I replaced all of the intake manifold gaskets. I didn't have a new o-ring for the cold start injector, so for now, to rule out any air leaks, I put a dab of rtv on the mating surface. I also cleaned out the throttle body and IAC valve, and inspected the the IAC hoses that hadn't been replaced. They looked ok, so I cleaned off any dirt and debris, and put new hose clamps on. The idle was pretty good before, but seemed a little smoother afterwards. I don't doubt that the manifold gaskets were leaking a little.

        Because of the sub-par fuel economy I got from the first tank, I started going through all of the tests in the Bentley manual, but still have to check the temp sender at a few different temperatures to make sure it is transitioning ok, and the throttle switch. The idle temp switch, cold start valve, AFM, and fuel pressure all look good. I don't think I have a leaking injector, since I just refreshed them, and when I had the fuel pressure gauge installed and turned off the engine, the fuel pressure stays constant.

        Hopefully the next tank of fuel will result in better economy after all this.

        Comment


          #5
          The bitch clip made me its bitch.

          I ordered the shifter rebuild kit from Pelican Parts, and spent the afternoon working on that. I managed to get all of them replaced but the bushing held in by the bitch clip. After quite a bit of time on my back I had had enough. I put everything else in, and will come back to it later. There is still some play, with that bushing I couldn't get to being pretty worn, but it has about 60% less play than it had before. Now it just feels like a used car, not a 200k mile/25 year old car. I'll probably get a short shifter before I try tackling it again.

          Now that I am daily driving this car, I threw in a used alpine CDA9885 I picked up for a decent price. It has red lighting, so doesn't look terrible in the dash, and has a rear aux in, so I can hide the wiring and connect it to my phone dock. Plus, it sounds better than the 10 year old wal-mart special cd player that was in there.

          I got the front valance sandblasted and primed, and I put the base coat on this afternoon. I still need a new rf fender, then the body will be complete. I am anxious to have all of the maintenance done, so I can get to the suspension. I always hate seeing crappy, neglected cars that are slammed with rims.

          The car is still pretty rough (not photogenic) but I realize this thread is pretty worthless with so few pictures. I'll be sure to get some when/after I throw the new driver seat in and put the new body parts on, and its not so fugly that it's embarrassing.

          Comment


            #6
            Ok, maybe just a couple crappy pics.

            As she is sitting now:


            And just for fun; the summer DD, 97 Miata, S.Drive's + Hawke pads + H&R race springs + KYB AGX shocks = go-kart handling.

            I'll probably be selling this in the spring though. OBD2 creates too many hurdles for forced induction and NY state inspections, and after 3 years, I am getting sick of how slow this car is.

            Comment


              #7
              Welcome to the forum and GLW the Build :)
              Work We Do
              CAtuned Feedback Page|FB CAtuned Page
              http://www.catuned.com

              Comment


                #8
                More work done the past couple of months

                New tires: general altimax 195/65/14
                I painted the RF Fender, in the garage before I mounted it, and then mounted it when it was rather dark out. The next day, when the sun hit it, i realized just how off the paint was. DOH! I will re-paint it in the spring, but I'm too lazy to worry about it right now. It is better than the rusted through/dented up fender that was previously on the car. This picture also clearly illustrates how bad the paint is on the hood. I will probably end up spraying the whole car over the summer.



                ES lip sanded, plastic-welded, painted and mounted. I'm still missing the fog lights, but the car looks a thousand times better. I decided to two tone the lip, as the picture shows, because I think that the lip being mounted without the side skirts and rear valance makes it look very awkwardly low in the front. I kept the bottom black to help it flow with the rocker panels black a little more. I'm pleased with the results overall.


                OBC temp sensor from george installed.
                Put an external fuse on the abs relay, reset SI light, and replaced a few bulbs. Everything in the dash now works, and all of the warning lights are off.

                Figured out a simple and easy to remove cupholder solution. Total cost to me ws $.99:

                Just pop out the shift boot, hang, and snap boot back down. No more spilled drinks, and can easily pop out for passenger comfort/spirited driving/auto-x.

                Also installed a drivers seat that I believe is from a e36. Its manual, not power, so there is some weight penalty, but not much, and it is a thousand times more comfortable and supportive than the worn out stock seat. It looks a little goofy with one black leather seat and one houndstooth comfort seat, but I am willing to sacrifice a little appearance for comfort.


                To mount it I ended up modifying the seat rails, as opposed to making brackets or drilling holes in the floor. Its hard to see in this picture, and I unfortunately didn't take any pictures of the process, but I left the right front hole in place, and for the other three, drilled out the rivet thing holding the plates in place. For the right rear, it just had to go forward a few inches. I drilled it in place, and drilled a hole into the rail. For the left side, both just had to be offset and welded, and the rail trimmed to make room for the bolt.
                For the seatbelt rail, I cut a section of the curve out, and rotated it 90* counter clockwise. Then cut the straight part short to meet it, and welded it back together, so now the 'loop' portion goes over towards the door instead of forward. There are a few washers under the seat rails so the rails clear the seatbelt bolt. The whole process took a couple of hours, but the car could quickly be put back to stock (ignoring the modified seatbelt rail).

                It's hard to tell from the pic's, but there is plenty of room on the door side of the seat, and just enough clearance between the center console to avoid rubbing. All in all I am happy with the fit.

                The winter salt is already taking its toll on the seat rails, so I need to take care of that soon.
                Last edited by Andy.B; 01-22-2012, 06:17 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I've replaced the passenger side subframe bushing, but still need to replace the driver side. I'll take pictures of the tool I made, and the process I used to do it while its in the car. Once I had everything collected for the tool it was a cake job. The passenger side is still pretty solid, so I will wait for a warm day for that.

                  A problem I am having is a clunk from the rear when I push or let of the gas abruptly while moving (rapidly loading or unloading the drivetrain). I initially though it was due to the torn subframe bushing, but changing it made no change. Everything in the driveshaft seems to be tight, and the control arm bushing aren't loose. I am afraid its going to end up being play inside the differential itself, but I haven't had a chance to get it off the ground and check since I did the bushing (worse comes to worst, I will have an excuse to do an lsd swap).
                  My only other theory at this point is that it is an upper shock mount, which I suppose I should replace as a matter of maintenance anyway. The clunk is rather subtle, enough so I really can't discern if its about the same noise I get when going over bumps (ie: shock mount noise)

                  I know this is hardly the most exciting or radical build, but the car is coming together, and proving to be quite a solid DD.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Nice job!

                    Seat is a e46 sport seat. Nice work.
                    Work We Do
                    CAtuned Feedback Page|FB CAtuned Page
                    http://www.catuned.com

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thank you for informing me of the origin of the seat. I am going to try to find a match to make the gf happy, but it's hardly a priority.

                      The holidays, college tuition, and work being much slower for the season all mean less money for goodies right now. Once spring comes, and I have more time/money/good weather, there is going to be lots of work happening.

                      In the mean time I have a type 4 engine to finish building for my vw transporter. This engine build has been an ungodly slow project, but I am determined to get it built, and everything converted to L-jet from the dual weber's by summer.
                      Last edited by Andy.B; 01-31-2013, 10:09 AM.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Quick update:
                        New power steering rack and tie rods, replaced the subframe bushing I hadn't done yet, replaced roundels with black and silver ebay ones, replaced exhaust manifold and cat pipe gaskets, replaced a fuel injector that was flowing too much, installed new kyb shocks, cut front springs one coil, h&r sport rear (about an inch and a half lower in front, 1 inch rear). I am very happy with the ride. A nice balance of comfort and handling, with a good aesthetic upgrade. Its no track car, but perfect for daily driving on varied road surfaces.
                        Going from a Miata with its fantastic suspension to the e30 was a huge change, and for a while I was unsure of weather I could stick with it, but new shocks and springs have made a night and day difference. I'm actually quite happy with it now.

                        The car is now getting about 20 mpg city, up from the 15 or so I got at first. With the improved suspension I have been driving it much harder though. Being an eta, it should be better I believe, but I'm hoping warmer weather brings an improvement.

                        I still haven't put the m3 offset control arm bushings on yet, and decided to wait until I pick up new control arms.

                        I'll get some picks next time it gets a bath.
                        Last edited by Andy.B; 04-02-2012, 06:38 PM.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          I really like what you did with that lip! Nice thinking!

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Update with recent work:

                            lemforder control arms
                            m3 offset bushings
                            reman rack
                            2nd reman rack (after first reman rack failed within 5 miles)
                            replaced other shift bushings, installed short shifter
                            replaced temp switch and temp sensor
                            straight piped resonator (raspy when cold, but beats the massive leak)
                            installed chip from mottor_sports on ebay (91 oct, raises rev limiter. I'm very happy with it)
                            ST m3 springs from their ebay clearance (great deal at $75)
                            14" weaves
                            garagistic odo gears (painted needles red. looks great)

                            Parts I've collected, but haven't installed yet:
                            m3 droplink mounting tabs from ie
                            m3 droplinks
                            afm adapter for 3" filter
                            K&N cone filter
                            strut bearings to allow kyb agx shocks from mr2

                            Looking to buy:
                            3.25 lsd
                            m20b25 exhaust catalytic converter assembly and manifolds.

                            After the chip, with the raised rev limiter, I really don't like where the shift points are, and the rpm at cruising speeds. The engine pulls hard up to the rev limit, but for the sake of the valvetrain, I usually shift just before 5k. From what I've read, the 3.25 lsd is an ideal match to the eta.

                            My single pipe exhaust is cobbled together, and I would like to replace it with something better. I am looking to replace the cat pipe assembly with an i exhaust, and a stainless ebay cat back.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I'm planning to buy stiffer front shocks, but I can't decide exactly what I want.
                              I am running ST m3 springs, m3 offset Cab's and will be installing m3 droplinks

                              Options:

                              Koni: Out of my price range

                              Bilstein sports: I don't doubt that they are great, but I am all about saving money, and trying alternative solutions with this car.

                              MR2 KYB AGX: I bought the bearings to install mr2 kyb agx's (which are the shocks I run, and love, on my miata, with h&r race springs). I cannot decide between using front or rear shocks. The rears are longer, requiring a shorter spacer, but are stiffer, afaik.
                              I am not entirely sold on them for my application, however, as I am concerned that even if I go with (allegedly) softer front shocks, at the lowest settings, they will be too stiff for the ST M3 springs. If I try it out and it doesn't work out, I should have no problem selling them.

                              Comment

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