89 325i LS Swap (Rust Repair & Respray Underway)

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  • TheWipprSnappr
    replied
    Originally posted by Pootis

    Ultimately you need 1-5/8" from the rotor hat to the spokes of your wheels which I didn't have.
    Thank you for this! I'll be doing the rx7 install soon and ive been shopping for wheels at the same time and ive been looking for this dimension.

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  • Pootis
    replied
    Well I pulled the trigger on a big brake kit this week. I went with the Massive Street Kit which uses Wilwood Dynapro 4 piston front calipers and corrado rotors. I debated on doing the RX7 kit or this kit but after measuring my wheels there is no way I could make the RX7 kit work and that is with the 20mm spacers I am running. Ultimately you need 1-5/8" from the rotor hat to the spokes of your wheels which I didn't have. After doing the math and pricing everything out you are only a couple hundred bucks more to get this kit over the RX7 kit. Since I will be flushing the brake system I decided to buy a rebuild kit for the rears as well as new stainless lines and emergency brake cable parts. I plan on getting it installed this weekend. Wish me luck for the horrible rear lines. (Also yes those BBS RM's have seen better days but I got them for a price you couldn't refuse even with the bends)




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  • Pootis
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB
    Thanks for the answers! Since the whole "everyone wants an LS" thing happened, LS1 prices have tripled, as did T56 prices. The difference between a used thrashed fbody T56 and a rebuilt one is like $500 now.

    Makes me heavily consider an iron block variant, so it's good to know that the weight is negligible.
    The T56 was one of the most expensive single purchases of the entire build

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  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Originally posted by Pootis
    1) the hydro boost took some getting used to but I like it now. It is a bit laggier than vacuum assisted brakes.
    2) I did retain heat. That is the simple one the car does not have ac though.
    3) Nope I modified c5 corvette headers to work.
    4) Honestly I don’t feel a difference at all. The difference between the m20 and the iron block is 80 lbs so it feels fine to me. Stiffer front springs help as well.

    Glad you like the car. I initially was going to switch the car to black interior but I’m glad I didn’t
    Thanks for the answers! Since the whole "everyone wants an LS" thing happened, LS1 prices have tripled, as did T56 prices. The difference between a used thrashed fbody T56 and a rebuilt one is like $500 now.

    Makes me heavily consider an iron block variant, so it's good to know that the weight is negligible.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pootis
    replied
    Originally posted by mr.
    Amazing, love that the exterior is kept so simple, a sleeper look if you will
    Thanks! That was the goal. No one knows what's under the hood until it starts up

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  • mr.
    replied
    Amazing, love that the exterior is kept so simple, a sleeper look if you will

    Leave a comment:


  • Pootis
    replied
    Originally posted by AWDBOB
    Incredible- this is my dream build (and favorite color/interior combo, but I'm biased).

    1) How does the hydroboost feel?
    2) Did you retain heat?
    3) Sikky headers?
    4) Front end feel heavy with the iron block?
    1) the hydro boost took some getting used to but I like it now. It is a bit laggier than vacuum assisted brakes.
    2) I did retain heat. That is the simple one the car does not have ac though.
    3) Nope I modified c5 corvette headers to work.
    4) Honestly I don’t feel a difference at all. The difference between the m20 and the iron block is 80 lbs so it feels fine to me. Stiffer front springs help as well.

    Glad you like the car. I initially was going to switch the car to black interior but I’m glad I didn’t

    Leave a comment:


  • AWDBOB
    replied
    Incredible- this is my dream build (and favorite color/interior combo, but I'm biased).

    1) How does the hydroboost feel?
    2) Did you retain heat?
    3) Sikky headers?
    4) Front end feel heavy with the iron block?

    Leave a comment:


  • 325isman
    replied
    Great looking car...keep up the good work

    Leave a comment:


  • wworm
    replied
    holy moly you can see the whole car move/twist when you rev the engine. Must be a riot

    Leave a comment:


  • zwill23
    replied
    Looking good, I recently did the exact same rust repair. Those damn wire clip studs seem like a common rust point.

    Leave a comment:


  • Pootis
    replied
    Ok I am terrible about updates but I'm also pretty slow at working on this car. I peeled the carpet up and found a couple spots of rust that needed addressed. One spot I was about to cut it all out but the other I had to fiberglass in and leave to a professional (no pics but it isn't pretty).





    I have been chasing vibrations in the car and came to find that even though I beat the hell out of the transmission tunnel it was still touching in a couple of spots. So I dropped the exhaust and angled the transmission down far enough to make for space and I am happy to report that the vibrations are virtually gone. The original exhaust was a one piece hack job so I decided to redo it while it was down. I am pretty happy with the results. I uploaded a video of how it sounds now.

    (original)


    (new)




    (How it sounds)


    I also picked up a Mtech 1 Wheel that I plan on having recovered


    Street Car Takeover was two weekends ago so I figured I would give the ol girl a fine cut polish, an additional polish and a high gloss wax. The results were amazing.

    (Masked off)


    (Before)


    (After)


    (With the OZ Vegas on and ready for the show)



    Only pic I have from the show


    Back into the garage after the show


    Overall the car is running well. It is a ton of fun to drive and you can slide the ass end out way too easily. And as you can see in the pics I finally put an i lip on for all of the haters lol. I will try to update this more as things progress. Next on the list is brakes. I plan to either rebuild the stock brakes or pony up for a bbk time will tell.
    Last edited by Pootis; 05-09-2018, 11:05 AM.

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  • Pootis
    replied


    Planning on getting these installed this weekend

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  • superj
    replied
    badass

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  • Pootis
    replied
    I used a chevy astro hydrobooster and rethreaded the push rod to take a bmw brake clevis. I then picked up a chevy trailblazer 1" master cylinder and adapted the lines to work with the bmw abs pump. It was a bit of a nightmare to figure out but it is ultimately the Sikky hydroboost setup without the fancy (expensive) billet parts. The booster bolts to the firewall using the astro firewall plate just drilled to the bmw booster pattern.

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