5Toes 5er

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  • iansane
    replied
    Originally posted by F34R
    Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.

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  • not5toes
    replied
    I cant wait for sunlight tomorrow to dive back into it.

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  • Ray Smoodiver
    replied
    Originally posted by Pantless Spency
    You know we have an e34 dedicated sub forum right? ;)
    You shut up with your logic and junk :p

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  • not5toes
    replied
    Originally posted by F34R
    You do know that the starter has a relay to open and close when turning over? Once you stop cranking the relay closes and cuts off the power. The starter is not drawing anything, if it was it would turn the engine over via the flywheel. This is proven through testing a starter removed from a car. Give it direct power and it will kick out and function to turn the flywheel. That is the purpose of the relay. You would have a burnt out solenoid if it was turning over all the time.

    I notice you went and tested/cleaned the power block in the bay like I told you to on FB. But did you test the power wire from the block to the starter 12v start stud? Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.
    Brandon, I pulled the intake manifold but it got dark - I am planning on hooking the battery back up tomorrow and checking all that out. Time for some maintenance I have been sorta putting off. I am gonna remove the alternator and clean it too.

    Tomorrow I plan on:

    Checking for power when I turn the key at the starter. The starter may be acting up.

    Just so I make sure I am doing it right, I should place the + probe on the positive terminal in the engine bay, and then ground it out on the starter, engine, etc.?

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  • Pantless Spency
    replied
    Originally posted by Ray Smoodiver
    You know this is an E30 forum right?
    You know we have an e34 dedicated sub forum right? ;)

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  • F34R
    replied
    Originally posted by not5toes
    the starter IS drawing current. It seems that the road vibrations contribute to the issue.
    You do know that the starter has a relay to open and close when turning over? Once you stop cranking the relay closes and cuts off the power. The starter is not drawing anything, if it was it would turn the engine over via the flywheel. This is proven through testing a starter removed from a car. Give it direct power and it will kick out and function to turn the flywheel. That is the purpose of the relay. You would have a burnt out solenoid if it was turning over all the time.

    I notice you went and tested/cleaned the power block in the bay like I told you to on FB. But did you test the power wire from the block to the starter 12v start stud? Also test your alternator while running for correct readings to charge the battery and operate the car while in use.

    Leave a comment:


  • Ray Smoodiver
    replied
    You know this is an E30 forum right?

    Leave a comment:


  • not5toes
    replied
    It really isnt.. I am looking for some solid help. Not bullshit, not games, not trolling.

    That said, I did get the intake manifold off in 45 minutes without breaking anything out in the cold ahaha

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  • LJ851
    replied
    ^ It's the rusted hood causing all your problems.

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  • not5toes
    replied
    ban me or not Im just trying to get my car running again. After running perfect for a while it left me stranded.

    yesterday Im cruising down the road and all of a sudden the OBC and my aftermarket deck just start flickering on and off - at a very fast rate! In the days prior I had noticed a dim battery light on the cluster but didnt think much of it, the car has been fine. However earlier in the week I left the ignition on for around 40 minutes and the battery went dead...

    Odd, I thought and then I got almost every cluster failure light Ive ever seen - antilock, CEL, battery light, transmission goes into limp mode.. it was NUTS.

    I pull off and car wont restart - the starter motor turns for a second then begins to click like a dead battery - as if not enough cranking amps.

    Start diagnosing it and find that:
    have good battery voltage in the bay
    the engine ground works
    the battery terminals are tight and clean

    I get a jumpbox and am able to get the car started with ease, only to drive another half mile and experience the same symptoms - but this time the engine coughs and dies. It lost the speed and tach, so obviously some main connector is getting fumbled with. Get it towed home.

    that night at home I put in a spare Optima Redtop battery and it cranked with ease and idled great. I let it dle for 10 minutes and it was fine and did not flicker the power or anything.

    Took it for a spin 30 minutes later and get the same issues again, but am able to get it home and park it. Now when I turn the key (with the fully charged battery) nothing happens except the lights all over the car dim a bit - so the starter IS drawing current. It seems that the road vibrations contribute to the issue.

    Tonight I did more diagnosing and pulled the intake manifold off to gain access to starter, etc. I also have been wanting to do my oil filter housing gasket and replace my fuel lines so now is the time for that as well.

    At this point in time the car did nothing except the dash would get slightly dim while trying to start. I also noticed that the deck did not want to turn on as well, but the fusible link I had tinkered with by that point.

    I removed the 80AMP fusible link and it seems to be fine, no cracks at all and is in one piece looking nearly new.

    Top culprits I am thinking are:
    1. ignition switch (gotta check for power at starter tomorrow)
    2. fusible link
    3. bad ground or loose connection at starter/fusebox.

    I am at a loss, please help. Thank you. Also, if anybody would like to buy 15 feet of 5/16 GATES Barricade made in USA fuel injection hose for $35 shipped let me know.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30saam
    replied
    Originally posted by acolella76
    tldr
    +1

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  • Pantless Spency
    replied
    Originally posted by Austin!
    He's banned, good luck getting a response............
    lol im sure hell make another account and get banned on that one too.

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  • e30austin
    replied
    Originally posted by Pantless Spency
    have you ever tried driving a 5 speed using the prosthetic leg toes?

    im sure you could do it man.
    He's banned, good luck getting a response............

    Leave a comment:


  • Pantless Spency
    replied
    Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver
    Driving a stick doesn't seem like it would be that hard with a prosthetic leg. I mean, I've driven with snow boots on that make it so I couldn't feel the pedal at all. Maybe there is more feeling than I think, but I'm sure you could get used to it. Seems like it wouldn't be much different than walking.
    i was thinking the same thing.


    have you ever tried driving a 5 speed using the prosthetic leg toes?

    im sure you could do it man.

    Leave a comment:


  • AwakenNoMore
    replied
    Originally posted by NitroRustlerDriver
    That's why.
    Awesome :mrgreen:

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