325ic Calypso Euro Conversion - Houndstooth & dbilas now, MT1 & MM 3.2 stroker coming

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  • bradnic
    replied
    Yeah clearance is a concern.. probably 1.5 to 2” clearance.. it sits under the exhaust and is at least an inch away from the bottom of the lollipops

    you can see the lowest point of the x-brace in the 2nd pic three posts earlier.
    Last edited by bradnic; 08-22-2017, 06:01 AM.

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  • jeffnhiscars
    replied
    Strut brace alone made a huge difference but I've held off on the X brace due to clearance concerns. How much do you lose with this thing on ?

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  • e30m3s54turbo
    replied
    The x brace would make the big difference on handling. I been lagging on ordering the x brace for my e30's....

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  • bradnic
    replied
    Garagistic had their x-brace and strut bar on sale so I finally pulled the trigger.
    OMG what a difference in handling and suspension.

    Had to heat and bend the strut bar a bit to clear the dbilas plenum, but it turned out great.




    Still need to get the front mtech1 apron finished.
    Last edited by bradnic; 08-21-2017, 05:56 PM.

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  • Jacky e30
    replied
    Wow, beautiful build. I love the colour, looking forward to seeing the MT1 kit in calypso!

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  • e30m3s54turbo
    replied
    Nice pic...

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  • bradnic
    replied
    Flickr test
    Short URL they provided
    https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak

    BBCODE provided (modified with curly braces, highlighted in blue to show the different parts

    {left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]{left bracket}img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36374330385_ed79fd5198_b.jpg[/img][/url]{left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]callie-shadowline europaint[/url] by {left bracket}url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/bradn/]bradn[/url], on Flickr

    Parsing all that stuff:

    includes this Link to the picture page: {left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]
    and this Link to a 1024 wide static image: {left bracket}img]https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4377/36374330385_ed79fd5198_b.jpg[/img]
    followed by the end of the URL tag, so if you click on the pic it takes you to the Flickr page[/url]

    there's also this
    Caption with link back to Flickr page pic name and Flickr user name: {left bracket}url=https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak]callie-shadowline europaint[/url] by {left bracket}url=https://www.flickr.com/photos/bradn/]bradn[/url], on Flickr

    if you paste the Flickr straight short URL as IMG you get this:


    If you paste the short Flickr URL as URL you get this:
    https://flic.kr/p/XqgXak

    If you paste the Flickr BBCODE as IMG
    [IMG]callie-shadowline europaint by bradn, on Flickr[/IMG]

    If you just straight paste the Flickr BBCODE directly you get what Flickr wants you to share
    callie-shadowline europaint by bradn, on Flickr

    If you just paste the Flickr static image part as IMG, without the URL link back to Flickr, you get this


    That's great, but it's not what Flickr wants you to do.
    Last edited by bradnic; 08-04-2017, 01:18 PM.

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  • bradnic
    replied
    not yet. parts storage is seriously out of control lol. can't wait to start the stroker phase either, but I don't dare do it til all the other pending stuff is settled.

    my garage and basement are a complete mess. #wifepatientbutimonborrowedtime

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  • DRVN2WN
    replied
    Nice! Have you mounted the angled tip Stromung? If you posted it elsewhere I've likely missed it since I've not been on the forums in a bit.

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  • bradnic
    replied


    all the MT1 bits are done now except the front valance. still need to build a tool to prep the triple slots.
    Last edited by bradnic; 09-02-2017, 11:01 AM.

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  • bradnic
    replied
    Good call - thanks for chiming in

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  • pandaboo911
    replied
    Solder doesn't melt until 300F, no way the engine bay is getting that hot. Probably down to higher wattage bulbs or resistance in the connections

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  • kronus
    replied
    Yeah, I run the covers.

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  • bradnic
    replied
    Originally posted by e30rapidic
    easier fix is to jump across the two green/black wires at the 3rd brake light wiring harness. You can disconnect the plug behind the trunk side carpet, up by the antenna. This bypasses/tricks the active check system into thinking the 3rd brake light is working as intended. That's how mine is set up.
    thanks Andre. def planning to do this when I swap deck lids and lose the brake light wart. in the interim the brake light check panel warning did come back on once while driving this afternoon. Parked and restarted the car - gone again.

    Originally posted by e30rapidic
    Good luck with the other bits, hope they're all easy fixes!
    Thanks. More annoying than anything really. Swapping out the low beam K4 relay and replacing what looked like a good fuse 13 solved the headlight issue. washer pump and headlamp washers are working again.

    As of right now everything is working correctly again.

    Originally posted by kronus
    I had a similar problem and tore my hair out for a while. Turned out to be real dumb.
    ouch kronus! damn. that would have taken a while to track down. only sign would have been a consistent blown fuse. lesson learned for all of us I think - the engine bay gets hot. wondering - did you have the cover over the headlight area at the time or was it open?

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  • kronus
    replied
    Originally posted by bradnic
    DRIVER LOW BEAM HEADLIGHT
    Has been refusing to turn on intermittently, ever since before last year's vintage. Cool thing is the check panel low beam warning light reliably tells you if the lamp isn't on. On the way back from the Vintage it turned off permanently. Checked bulb and HID ballast by swapping with right side. both were fine. Swapped out the K4 relay. No change.

    Finally went back to check fuse 13 (LH low beam) and sure enough fuse was dead. Replaced and working now, but this can't be the root cause. Will check euro smiliey wiring mods and grounds again but I don't think I'll find anything. Will just have to wait for it to start failing intermittently again I suppose.
    I had a similar problem and tore my hair out for a while. Turned out to be real dumb.

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