323 to 331 Build

[Farbin Kaiber]

Updates?

[litu]

Nice project, cool engine bay colors+that colors of back the car :)

[Saascat1]

Well a couple of weeks blew out into over a month since I last posted. I have however got quite a bit done. I managed to get a week to myself and got stuck in. It wasn't all smooth sailing, in fact I had problems with the left rear wheel bearing that cost me almost two whole days to put right. The interior is coming together slowly, finally got the roll cage issues sorted out with the help of an engineer ,$$$, and have painted out the inside. If i'm honest I'm not much of a spray painter and I would like to do it again later on, but for now it will suffice.

The rear end is finished now, diff and drive shafts bolted up tight, both wheel bearing replaced, both drive flanges replaced, sub-frame modified and all new polyurethane bushes installed, new CSB, new Flex Disc, tail-shaft installed. So my drive train is complete and installed. Brakes have also been overhauled, new piston o-rings and seals, EBC Yellow Stuff pads, and slotted and cross-drilled rotors.
Before.............



The problem child finally out!

The new one back in,

and drive flange installed.
After...........

Before and after are of the right side of the car, for some reason I didn't take ant of the other side.

Some photos of the subframe work. These are old photos from the previous garage. I didn't take any of the finished product unfortunately, I was in a hurry to bolt them in so I could move house.



Sorry about the poor quality of the photos. These were before the welding had been done, just shows pieces prepared. The toe/camber kits are from IE, as are the swaybar link reinforcement plates. PolyU from Strongflex.



As stated above I painted the interior and started to put it back together,

Windscreens back in, starting to look like a car again :D



I got most of the wiring back into the car and engine bay, got sidetracked and started playing with the fuel system and some engine dress-up........


That's all I've got for now as I'm in Perth, and the car is in Darwin..........
Home in a couple of weeks for a few days, maybe get an engine start then.

[Saascat1]

Time for an update.

Not much has happened on my Beastie, still getting the roll cage issues sorted out. After consultation with the fabricator, moving the cage was untenable. I have worked out a method for mounting the quarter windows, and I now have an engineer looking into seatbelt mount alternatives. It looks like we may have a solution. He just has to "test" it with his software and then I can go ahead, get the work done, get the car home and finish it off.

Parts have been arriving with some regularity and largely hassle free. The biggest F/UP so far has been mine. I put my dislexia to poor use and sent a large sum of money to the wrong persons bank account, sorry Jules, but that is being sorted out, hopefully.

Here is some of what has turned up:





My new brake setup with EBC Yellow Stuff pads. Rear has got the same treatment coming, but still on the car, which is not here.

New drive flanges to go with the new rear W/Bearings.

New DIYAutotune wasted spark coil pack.

Also arrived, but not photographed:
DIYAutotune "Quad spark" ignition driver
Innovate LC=1 Wideband O2 sensor + controller
Bosch 044 Fuel Pump
Carter Lo pressure Hi flow fuel pump
Bosch #42 injectors (440cc)
Hi flow washable fuel filter (30 micron)
New Hella fog light lenses
New kidneys and grilles
New TPS for throttle body
and a shitload of fuel fittings and braided hose.

I'm still waiting on a few items, but I'm pretty confident that I have/will have everything I need to finish the project, however it's almost certain I've overlooked something.....................

I discovered a couple of days ago that the wiring loom I have for my car is not the wiring loom I need for the MSPNP I'll be installing. :curse:
My car is an '85, the PNP is for '87 onwards and the plug is completely different. DOH!
Fortunately I found the only E30 at a wreckers, in Darwin, which happened to be an '88 4door, 320i. For $100 I stripped out the entire loom and everything attached to it, right upto and including wiper/indicator stalks :D
My biggest concern ATM is wiring everything up correctly, electronics was never my strong suit and while I can use a soldering iron ok, it's a question of what goes where. I have already received much help and owe a shoutout to Nando and Whodwho for technical advice. They're sure to get some more questions in the Alt Tuning Forum.

That's all for now, will be back in a couple of weeks as I have to go away for work. I should be in the home straight when I get back and hope to be very close to finished.

Thanks for reading.

[Saascat1]

Wow nice build! bummer to hear about the roll cage but your engine build looks awesome!

Thanks

I hope to have a DCOE 40mm set for production by the end of the year. One difference is that it'll be be angled parallel to the ground for carb fuel float purposes.

Enjoying this build, look forward to seeing an in car video of this beast.

Left me know how you get on with ITBs
I definitely be getting video :D

[digger]

Sorry but its not even close to being ready yet, this was a little pre-emptive (hence the "end of the year").

i saw that but though you might have had a plan for the booster already...........?

[SkiFree]

Sorry but its not even close to being ready yet, this was a little pre-emptive (hence the "end of the year").

[digger]

I hope to have a DCOE 40mm set for production by the end of the year. One difference is that it'll be be angled parallel to the ground for carb fuel float purposes.

Enjoying this build, look forward to seeing an in car video of this beast.

E30? if so how did you avoid the booster?

[SkiFree]

yeah i knew you had all thats stuff..
there are no ITB kits on the market that i would put on an M20 they all offer TB/runners that are too large. best bet is a custom set using the flange off an old one cast manifold and a DCOE adapter plate welded and use a set of 40mm ones

I hope to have a DCOE 40mm set for production by the end of the year. One difference is that it'll be be angled parallel to the ground for carb fuel float purposes.

Enjoying this build, look forward to seeing an in car video of this beast.

[digger]

Hi Digger

I have installed new valve guides as well as Schrich HP springs so I not too concerned at this stage. That may of course change once the engine is running......

I've had a few thoughts about the intake manifold, and to honest $2000-3000 on ITBs os a bit of a stretch right now. I had also thought of getting a donor manifold and cutting the runners just past the oil return and trying to fab something up. What do you think? Do you have any suggestions alternatives?

Thanks mate

yeah i knew you had all thats stuff..
there are no ITB kits on the market that i would put on an M20 they all offer TB/runners that are too large. best bet is a custom set using the flange off an old one cast manifold and a DCOE adapter plate welded and use a set of 40mm ones

[Saascat1]

Hi Digger

I have installed new valve guides as well as Schrich HP springs so I not too concerned at this stage. That may of course change once the engine is running......

I've had a few thoughts about the intake manifold, and to honest $2000-3000 on ITBs os a bit of a stretch right now. I had also thought of getting a donor manifold and cutting the runners just past the oil return and trying to fab something up. What do you think? Do you have any suggestions alternatives?

Thanks mate

[digger]

My concern was poor valve train control could theoretically cause a clash so good valve springs are a must and the guides must be new. I think the +1,+1 is fine.. I was looking at other combinations as well which was a bit iffy. In theory the bigger the valves the less overlap you need because low lift flow improves so you could use a slightly wider LSA which would increase the separation. There are many combinations to look at.
Any plans for different intake manifold? The stock one works against the bigger cam

[Saascat1]

good to see the M20 is still getting attention........ive always wanted to do another build now that i am alot wiser that i was when i did my stroker........


Did you go +1 on both intake and exhaust valves ? How close do the two valves get to clashing together at Overlap with the 304? It has a lot of lift around TDC due to the narrow LSA and stout duration and this is something I see as a limitation of the head in terms of possible valve area. I think +2 overall i.e. +1 on both would be the safe limit but there are other permutations and combinations possible

G'Day Digger,
Yes I did go +1mm O/S on both Intake and Exhaust. The valves do get pretty close, but something would have to seriously bent for them to clash. I also did a multi angle grind on the valves so they sit V nice. I have an E34 with M20B25 and have been running a similar top end for a couple of years now, although the cam is 272/284, ( Miller W.A.R. chip and MAF, Custom CAI{Galeforce Performance}, custom long tube stainless headers). I got it ground from billet stock at Wades Cams in VIC. Goes like a train from 2900 onwards.
I am still a little way off from having this engine up and running, but I expect it should pull like a 14 y.o.
My thinking is that the torque developed by the stroke being over-square should make up for the cam not really kicking in till later in the rev range. The bore is also +1 so a little extra capacity should also help in this regard. The Stroker Kit from IE has Ross Racing Piston in it and I specified 10.5:1 Comp. The pistons look a bit weird, but at 290gm each they could look like Nicki Minajs' Butt for all I care!

Wow nice build! bummer to hear about the roll cage but your engine build looks awesome!

Thanks CorvallisBMW

The cage guy came around today and picked her up for rectification, caught me in the middle of something...........

Yaarrgh............like a Pirate!

[CorvallisBMW]

Wow nice build! bummer to hear about the roll cage but your engine build looks awesome!

[digger]

good to see the M20 is still getting attention........ive always wanted to do another build now that i am alot wiser that i was when i did my stroker........


Did you go +1 on both intake and exhaust valves ? How close do the two valves get to clashing together at Overlap with the 304? It has a lot of lift around TDC due to the narrow LSA and stout duration and this is something I see as a limitation of the head in terms of possible valve area. I think +2 overall i.e. +1 on both would be the safe limit but there are other permutations and combinations possible