About your Q on e30 m3 off set. Here is a link to a person that might know.
6/83 grey market 323i.. mtech I S50 5-lug
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cool excited to see this come together :D
The difference is minimal, only about 2 mm. The flange is a bit thicker and I think the rotor hat is 1mm thicker thus the ~2mm
You can get the brake caliper brackets new from BMW, they cost me about $150 per side. They come with guide pins and new bushings for the caliper and bushing caps. Pm me and I can direct you toward the cheapest source for them.
Also run the e32 735i rear calipers. 735i pads will work too. I found them used on ebay for 15 bucks each
I just completed the swap on my rears and the offset difference is negligible.Last edited by pandaboo911; 12-24-2013, 02:47 AM.Leave a comment:
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Body work is arranged. Transmission work is arranged.
Starting to list out the things I'll need for the motor. Plan is to go with a late-model e30 Motronic 1.3 harness mated to the square C101 (it's embedded in the firewall and difficult to retrofit a round c101), running some sort of PNP Megasquirt box. I'm anticipating issues with the BOV situation - might end up fabricating a BOV pipe to mate with the log manifold instead of using the weird stock unit.
I'm also having some issues sorting out what I'll be able to fit in the nose of the car. Specifically, do oil coolers fit behind Mtech I valences? Do intercoolers fit behind euro bumpers? Has anyone managed to fit a SMIC behind the passenger headlights? The throttle body flip is not an attractive solution for me due to the amount of charge pipe involved, since I'm looking to end up with a responsive low-boost setup.
Also, does anyone know what the effective offset change is from using e30 m3 rear hubs? Is it possible to find the brake caliper brackets? I have heard some rumblings about how the rear m3 hub swap is impractical due to the caliper brackets not being available.Leave a comment:
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finally, it is bump time. this post is full of carnage.
went from assembled to this


later took the windows out, there is rust in places. I will be pulling the interior and wire wheeling down the window seams soon. Also, car's got a butthole:

will be cutting a patch panel..
some photos of rust in the windows. it's frankly better than I expected.


undercarriage is excellent. floor pans are dry.
plan is fully stripped, rust areas addressed and into body shop in 2 weeks. I'm exploring the idea of trucking it up to Oregon to get better paint, because you can only get waterborne paint in CA.Leave a comment:
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yeah, that auto is pretty crazy. It's labeled as a 4HP22, but it's got a connector and a whole ECU, so it's not a garden-variety 4HP22.
not sure about activating the thing with vacuum.. it's got a line going to it, but it might be stuck closed since we were going into overboost and the ECU was killing the engine during some, ahem, "testing".
incidentally did you see the skidmarks in the parking lot of the shop? ;DLeave a comment:
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Can it be actuated with solenoids and vacuum?
The auto paired with m106 is supposed to be dead; supposedly dies when revved in neutral. Weird unit
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it is happy! except now that I can fondle the propshaft, I can feel that it has a decent amount of play :(
also the pressure control solenoid/valve thing is weird and nobody knows anything about it. I'm not sure if it's possible to make it adjustable and run it via MS.Leave a comment:
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Finally the m106 has lost the body it was plagued w........it must be hella happy.
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Damn, I really liked it with the standard Euro body. It shall look good either way though.Leave a comment:
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Yeah one for early cars and one for later. The non m-tech molding can be trimmed to fit.Leave a comment:
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thats not bad actually. try shipping that kit via fedex domestically, probably cost you as much or more.Leave a comment:



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