Starting an E30 302 Build. Warmachine.

[THQ]

Which one specifically would you suggest?

Also, the Taurus fan was just available for free. I can use a push fan from other sources. Thank you sir.

[eurotrash]

Any of the high mount ones should work. I used the summit brand one for a serp belt setup and cut the spacers down to line up everything with the vbelts. I suggest picking up a set of billet pulleys also. Aside from being light weight and underdrive they are deeper and you wont have issues with throwing a belt at wot. Also check your wp inlet. If its on the drivers side (5.0 engines use a reverse flow wp) you'll wanna change to a serp setup. The vbelt setup turns the reverse flow the wrong way. If the inlets on the pass side your golden on the vbelt.

http://www.summitracing.com/search/department/engines-components/section/accessory-brackets-eliminators/part-type/alternator-brackets/make/ford/engine-size/5-0l-302

[eurotrash]

Taurus fan is an exallant fan. You just have to push everything way forward and cut out the core support to use it. If you decide to go that direction i can get you all the info for running an e36/volvo 2 speed fan controller setup. Nvr saw above 192 on mine.

[THQ]

thanks man! I also have an e36 fan so that works even better.

[singh336]

im a bad boy. nvm.

[THQ]

So I haven't made any improvement posts in a while, because nothing was improving for a while. It was cold, this build isn't in a garage (I'm doing everything basically in my driveway.) and I've been working.

So here are some things and my imgur links for pictures that are too big.

http://i.imgur.com/xmF8aSq.jpg

Here it sits, after the long harsh winter and finally being towed back out of the dirt pile it sat on during.

http://i.imgur.com/kqqgjSq.jpg

Rebuilding the passenger side floors completely, and cutting away all the rot around the rest of the vehicle. This car has a lot of rot, but will have less when I am done. My uncles 2009 Silverado has rot, so it's not avoidable here. Only slowed down..

http://i.imgur.com/FTALO9i.jpg

Redoing all the wiring to the engine bay, looming up all the headlight wiring and separating the engine wiring. I'm running a mechanical oil pressure and standalone other gauges, so my speedo is the only thing functioning on my old dash.

http://i.imgur.com/4sbZmTI.jpg

Post-apocalypse.

http://i.imgur.com/Xs9z5rV.jpg

My tig-finished oilpan to go with the 302.

http://i.imgur.com/1UehGES.jpg

Said 302, and world class T5 from an SVO Foxbody amonst other nifty doo-dads that came with them.

http://i.imgur.com/DYBwDjU.jpg

More 302, and having issues finding water pump pulley bolts. The motor came with a fancy fan on the front that will never clear my radiator, so the bolts are too long for my under pulley setup.

http://i.imgur.com/IMsRFmD.jpg

Also, my ignition wiring is cut and spliced like so. (From the previous owner? ) I'm not sure why. If anyone has an idea before I have to dig around more into the dash wiring that would be fantastic.

More to come within the next few weeks..

[jalopi]

Ditch the v-belt pulleys and pick up some serp belt pulleys. Pretty sure you gain some extra clearance that way, you'll need it.

[THQ]

Ditch the v-belt pulleys and pick up some serp belt pulleys. Pretty sure you gain some extra clearance that way, you'll need it.

Those are serpentine pulleys, it had V belts on it (that on the ground). It definitely helped clearance...

[jalopi]

Aah, yeah, it was hard to see the one bolted on was a serp pulley until you mentioned it.

I don't know what accessories you plan on running, but I had a lot of problems with belt slippage while I had just an alternator and water pump with my underdrive crank pulley (only used it since it came with the engine). Didn't wanna take any more chances so I got a regular sized crank pulley when I rigged up the power steering. Zero belt slippage issues now.

[THQ]

So I ran into an issue. My oil pickup (the one E30V8 instructed to get, for front sump) isn't clearing my oil pan (with exact measurements with E30v8 oil pan)

it's clipping by about 2 inches. Anyone have a reason for this that has done this swap? The motor is currently in the air so urgency would be nice!

Thanks!

[THQ]

nevermind, Fixed it. I had to tap it a little bit. it was only short about half an inch. Sorry for the EXTREMELY LARGE PICTURES too.

[jalopi]

Lol. Yeah I ran into the same issue too, ended up bending the pickup tube a little bit to get it to fit.

Also, while you're in there, install the dipstick tube and figure out how long the stick has to be. Much, much harder to figure out when it's all installed in the engine bay

[THQ]

Lol. Yeah I ran into the same issue too, ended up bending the pickup tube a little bit to get it to fit.

Also, while you're in there, install the dipstick tube and figure out how long the stick has to be. Much, much harder to figure out when it's all installed in the engine bay

Thanks for the tip!

I got that all set. Have you figured out how much oil it takes yet?

[jalopi]

No, though the sources I found online say that the old front sump 302s take 4qts. I'm skeptical of that figure, so I've been using 5.

Oh, by the way, I think I may have toasted my engine from either my oil foaming up like a bastard or the pump sucking up air during an event earlier in the month. Still runs, but only 12psi of oil pressure at idle. Used to be like 30. Considering I did all new bearings (including plastigauging everything) and a new high flow oil pump, I'm pretty sure it was either from the oil sloshing around too much or oil foaming.

If you plan on beating the fuck outta this engine, consider pulling the pan back off and devise a baffle for the modified version. Also, oil cooler.