I went to my moms and took a nap (she lives 1/4 mile away) my buddy eventually called, he was working on his house. We got it pushed in finally but unfortunately didn't make much progress. I'm new to electrical issues and diagnosing so while I've been learning on this whole swap, this is what I was dreading the most.
So after switching fuel lines and double checking the Crank and cam sensors were correctly hooked up, I put the booster pack on the battery and tried cranking again...still nothing. So I'm at a bit of a wall, I can confirm the following..
-fuel pressure seems strong still
-CPS tested at 505ohm which is in spec (it is the one that came on the motor, should replace anyways?)
-ICV is humming with key to 'ON'
-fuel pump isn't priming but runs with the relay jumped
-will fire if carb cleaner sprayed into intake so seems to be getting spark
All of this leads to me think the injectors aren't firing. Now the cause of this I'm not sure of obviously. The DME was supposed to be good but I can't verify. We tested the main relay last time and it checked out. I switched the other relays around for other ones with no different results. While cranking it will occasionally sputter like one cylinder tried to fire and have a faint smell of burnt fuel (open headers still). We checked all the important grounds last time and they were good. Hooked up to the booster pack so it's a strong 12v constant power. So with my limited but learning knowledge I'm lead to believe that I either need a cam sensor or I have a fried DME.
This was the car before we got it pushed out, it had sunk nearly to the depth of the tires.
This is my distribution block. I check all wires the running to the battery lead are indeed red and the grounded wire is brown, also have the passenger side ground strap from the chassis to the engine mount and injector harness grounded at the engine lift hook.
I pulled my plugs and they looked dry which I would suspect is from the injectors not firing.
And lastly I decided I would atleast wrap up the mechanical side of the swap and install my driveshaft...till my E30 CSB imploded when I pulled it off the DS. It's bent because I unleashed a large amount of violence on it once it tore, was a stressful day.
Any advice or tips on the no start issue are HUGELY appreciated. Been searching around but the amount of different threads on this is subject is a bit overwhelming.
So after switching fuel lines and double checking the Crank and cam sensors were correctly hooked up, I put the booster pack on the battery and tried cranking again...still nothing. So I'm at a bit of a wall, I can confirm the following..
-fuel pressure seems strong still
-CPS tested at 505ohm which is in spec (it is the one that came on the motor, should replace anyways?)
-ICV is humming with key to 'ON'
-fuel pump isn't priming but runs with the relay jumped
-will fire if carb cleaner sprayed into intake so seems to be getting spark
All of this leads to me think the injectors aren't firing. Now the cause of this I'm not sure of obviously. The DME was supposed to be good but I can't verify. We tested the main relay last time and it checked out. I switched the other relays around for other ones with no different results. While cranking it will occasionally sputter like one cylinder tried to fire and have a faint smell of burnt fuel (open headers still). We checked all the important grounds last time and they were good. Hooked up to the booster pack so it's a strong 12v constant power. So with my limited but learning knowledge I'm lead to believe that I either need a cam sensor or I have a fried DME.
This was the car before we got it pushed out, it had sunk nearly to the depth of the tires.
This is my distribution block. I check all wires the running to the battery lead are indeed red and the grounded wire is brown, also have the passenger side ground strap from the chassis to the engine mount and injector harness grounded at the engine lift hook.
I pulled my plugs and they looked dry which I would suspect is from the injectors not firing.
And lastly I decided I would atleast wrap up the mechanical side of the swap and install my driveshaft...till my E30 CSB imploded when I pulled it off the DS. It's bent because I unleashed a large amount of violence on it once it tore, was a stressful day.
Any advice or tips on the no start issue are HUGELY appreciated. Been searching around but the amount of different threads on this is subject is a bit overwhelming.
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