My turbo 24v alpine coupe

[mitchlevy7]

Yea that's a beautiful picture. Almost looks like you have fender flares on. Those are just rolled right?

rolled, pulled, cut the inner lip out (huge mistake its super thin and bacony now). have some changes on the way because it STILL rubs.

[mitchlevy7]

This is with 18mm spacers in the front (well a 8 and 10 stacked). I am not actually going to run 2 Non-wheel centric spacers on this car. I ordered 2 sets of Motorsport hardware 20mm track-lite spacers for it, which makes my effective offset et10. Its crazy that even though the fronts are both 225 and 16x9, the r888 on the OZ's are huge in comparison.

Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

I am digging the look. Never going to get rid of the oz's, but its super nice to have a set of beater wheels.

[mitchlevy7]

also the gopro hero 7 black is the tits.

[zwill23]

Heh, that's quite the set of "beater wheels." The contrast with the red paint is nice.

[mitchlevy7]

thanks! i got em for pretty cheap tho so i think "beater" can still apply.

Pics to follow but i think i figured out my trans issue. All of the flywheel bolts were loose and one fully backed out. Replacing the rear main while I am in there as I think that was leaking too. What the hell was I thinking when I did all of this the first time.

[mitchlevy7]

So this is what I saw when I took off the clutch

Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

(I think the pilot bearing was pulled out by the input shaft). All the flywheel bolts were finger tight, minus the one that was almost completely out. There was loctite on them. The only thing I can think of is I put them in hand tight but spaced out and didnt torque them. I also replaced the rear main seal (leaking) with a new oem complete housing, and put it all back together (with loctite of course) and fired her up and the transmission noise is gone. She sounds AWESOME with an open downpipe.

Also found a few pinhole leaks in my exhaust. Going to fix them at lunch today and maybe do the rear brakes after work.

[mitchlevy7]

Nothing like fixing something and finding a new issue.

Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

installed new centric blank rotors and hawk HPS pads in the rear. Found that my ebrake hardware on the pass side was broken and getting stuck and getting tossed around there. There has always been a griding coming from the passenger rear but I just thought it was the normal brake. Ordered all new ebrake pads and hardware, should be here later this week.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

So this is what I saw when I took off the clutch

Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

(I think the pilot bearing was pulled out by the input shaft). All the flywheel bolts were finger tight, minus the one that was almost completely out. There was loctite on them. The only thing I can think of is I put them in hand tight but spaced out and didnt torque them. I also replaced the rear main seal (leaking) with a new oem complete housing, and put it all back together (with loctite of course) and fired her up and the transmission noise is gone. She sounds AWESOME with an open downpipe.

I think there's supposed to be a steel washer/ring that sandwiches between the bolts and aluminum flywheel.

Otherwise, this is an awesome build. Going back now to read from the beginning :D

[mitchlevy7]

I think there's supposed to be a steel washer/ring that sandwiches between the bolts and aluminum flywheel.

Otherwise, this is an awesome build. Going back now to read from the beginning :D

that makes sense. The clutch and flywheel kit didnt come with it and the pics of it on the web dont have it. I am a little bit weary of running this clutch in the long term anyways. I dont think the bolts that the clutch come with would be long enough for a spacer anyways. I plan on getting the DKM twin disk eventually, but I might as well get some more use out of this before i send it.

[Sh3rpak!ng]

that makes sense. The clutch and flywheel kit didnt come with it and the pics of it on the web dont have it. I am a little bit weary of running this clutch in the long term anyways. I dont think the bolts that the clutch come with would be long enough for a spacer anyways. I plan on getting the DKM twin disk eventually, but I might as well get some more use out of this before i send it.

Which kit is it? Every aluminum flywheel kit I've worked on has that steel spacer. You could probably order a replacement from any of the vendors that sell them. As I understand, the aluminum is too soft to torque those bolts against. I don't have the engineering technical terms, but basically you're applying a very high pressure in a very small area to a very soft material. It won't stay tight. Hence the steel spacer which spreads the load from all bolts over a much larger area, the steel is also much harder than the aluminum so it won't marr when you torque the bolts.

Edit: there's actually a BMW OE pn for this washer: 11221262827 and as far as the bolts go, you can order the correct length grade 10.9 metric bolt and torque appropriately with loctite

[mitchlevy7]

Which kit is it? Every aluminum flywheel kit I've worked on has that steel spacer. You could probably order a replacement from any of the vendors that sell them. As I understand, the aluminum is too soft to torque those bolts against. I don't have the engineering technical terms, but basically you're applying a very high pressure in a very small area to a very soft material. It won't stay tight. Hence the steel spacer which spreads the load from all bolts over a much larger area, the steel is also much harder than the aluminum so it won't marr when you torque the bolts.

Edit: there's actually a BMW OE pn for this washer: 11221262827 and as far as the bolts go, you can order the correct length grade 10.9 metric bolt and torque appropriately with loctite

oh, don't get me wrong, I agree with you whole heartedly. Thanks for the part number.

My real question is: Did I forget to torque the bolts originally, or did they loosen up for that reason? I guess I will find out in a few thousand miles if they loosen up again. I for sure can see this being overlooked on this clutch kit, being that it is a ebay, cheapo clutch. I want to make the switch to the DKM because 1. Steel flywheel. 2. More torque capacity for when I go with e85. 3. Higher quality. 4. Pedal feel and engagement.

Anyways, been on the hustle getting things done after work on this car. Switched the last set of wheel studs to the bullet nose longer MH studs and installed 20mm spacers all around.

Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

my big gripe is that the OZ's dont allow me to put the centercaps on the wheels with these studs (on the rear at least) because the stud is too long. I can't use a spacer because I am already 16x10 et -2 and it sticks out like crazy.

Also installed new parking brake pads and hardware last night. I am a little worried I am going to run into the same issue with the spring bolts popping out of the parking brake shoes because the backing plate of the rotor is a little rusty. I think I am going to replace them when I do the secondary caliper.

Today's agenda is to remove the downpipe and rewrap it in actual DEI titanium wrap and fix the lip a little bit as a few of the bolts ate through the plastic when i hit the lip on the ground. The car will be on display at the BMW CCA octoberfest next weekend. Its a good excuse to tie up all these loose ends.

[mitchlevy7]

had to raise the fronts to as high as they would go so that the new wheels could get even close to full lock. Remember i have shortened housings and ix struts so "as high as it will go" really isnt that high.

Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr


Untitled by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

doesnt it look like I have way too much caster?

nonetheless, its alot easier to deal with manual steering with these wheels. I forgot to do a comparison of the 225/50/16 Firehawks vs the 225/45/16 r888 but the r888 are 1/2" to a 1" wider. I really didnt think about the fact that going to a 50 series sidewall on a 16 made the overall tire height so big, I am having issues with the tire hitting the inner fender well on turning....

In super exciting news, my new v-band clamp came because i broke the turbo to downpipe one. I got a stainless one from ticon industries... their stuff comes so clean out of the box.

[wworm]

you could space the fender out at the rear mounting points to get a bit more clearance

[mitchlevy7]

you could space the fender out at the rear mounting points to get a bit more clearance

my issue is more the tire hitting the inside of the wheel well rather then the fender itself (not running fender liners either) Appreciate it though. I just picked too tall of a tire. Stock height is 23.88, the r888 in front are 23.97 but these are 24.86. Shoulda went 225/45/16 =/

[mitchlevy7]

BMW CCA Oktoberfest was cool.

GOPR0461 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

GOPR0462 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

and an orange M3

GOPR0464 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

They had some badass cars there I didnt take pics of. M2 competitions, an M1, some m3's and m4's, Alpina E30's. It was a good time except for the rain.