My turbo 24v alpine coupe

[mitchlevy7]

new fuel rail= no more fuel system leaks

the FPR is overrun though. holds like 55psi at idle with the adjustment screw all the way out. Hoping I can find a kink in the line but if not I may just run a -6 line all the way back to the tank. I feel like I am chasing my tail on dialing in the fuel in the tune until this is fixed. Fuel pressure is most likely all over the place because I cant dial it in at idle.

Went for a 15 minute back road drive. Longest she has been out and driving in like 4 years. It was a blast. The throttle adjustment stop wasnt tight and the nut fell off, so the screw slowly made its way out. By the time I got back to the shop it was holding the throttle open 15%.

idles smooth as butter. I had to adjust the throttle so it was alot more closed at idle. I had 0% DC on the ICV and it was idling around -5 degrees of timing. Once I closed it more, I was at 5 degrees and 40% DC on the ICV, which I hear is normal.

After I originally went driving in it i noticed that my tail lights, wipers, and blower motor wouldnt turn on. I went into the fuse box to find that those fuses were fine, but with a test probe, they would only get power if I pushed on them a certain way. No wonder why the P.O. had wires running around the fuse box and wire wrapped around a few of the fuses. I bought some electronics cleaner and cleaned all the fuses and the fuse box and then bent some of the terminals in the fuse box so that they had a tighter grip on the fuses. Everything works now.

Also, the oil pain wasnt stripped. The damn mishimoto magnetic oil drain bolt snapped. I had like 15 ft-lbs on it. They drill out the bolt for the magnet, but the hole/magnet are too big and theres no meat left on the aluminum bolt where the threads are. Put a crush washer on a normal bolt and no more leak at the oil pan.

IMG_0478 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr



Instead of fixing the adjuster on my drivers side low beam, I just stole it from the passenger side high beam and took it out to give the intake air.

IMG_0495 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

Whats left:
-Figure out FPR overrun issue
-Bleed the brakes a little more
-tune it
-paint some of the trim (the kidneys look terrible)
-Take it down the south carolina

[mitchlevy7]

Disappointing weekend.

Couldnt get the fuel rail to stop leaking. Its supposed to be -8ORB threads, but theres no boss for the o-ring so it just tries to cut the o-ring. Before I was able to just adjust it a little bit and get it to stop but after like 5 tries this time it still leaked pretty bad. Can't have the car leaking fuel, obv. I bought the rallyroad rail on sunday.

Figured out why my headlights dont work. 88-89 cars that came with ellipsoids had a different k4 relay. It is a double switch with the 5th prong also being a 87. The middle (5th prong) is what actually sends power through the fuses and into the lights. The relay I ordered was a 4 prong. I found the right relay in my room at home, which is nice because the BMW one is NLA.

Made a mount for the aeromotive FPR my buddy gave me and sent the hybrid FPR back for repair. I want to go back to the hybrid racing one once its fixed. I am guessing the diaphram ripped on it because adjusting it did nothing.

Because of the fuel leak I couldnt drive the car. Also the oil drain plug is leaking. I ordered a timesert kit for it (expensive AF). I did alot of research and I could have retapped it to m13x1.5 but I have heard some people not have success with it and that still leaves the chance that it will strip again at m13. With the timesert I have some steel in there.

I am a little sketched out by drilling into the oil pan still on the car. I was planning on filling the hole with grease before drilling and tapping. Cleaning it out, and then running a quart or 2 of crap oil through it with the drain open to try and flush it out.

After the FPR, Fuel leak, and headlights work, I should be ready to tune it.

Didn't have as much time this weekend because I was helping my buddy whos shop it was do a powerglide swap in his vette. I think hes crazy for taking 6 gears out of his vette, he thinks im crazy for not putting a glide in my e30.

[mitchlevy7]

Is there a write up on that?

Nope. This is the VEMS not stock ecu. The PNP VEMS comes with an extra connector coming out of the back. One of the pins is an output pulling to ground. Grabbed 12v from the harness and had that pin activate the relay and BAM. Theres a fuse in there somewhere too. =]

who in MD did your VEMS install?

Me.


Got a TON done this weekend. If someone every makes me install cam trays in the car on an m5x again I will throw a fit. They just fall out. I was able to tape the lifters in and flip it and take the tape out. At one point I had 3 magnetic pickup things aligning lifters with one in my mouth. Fricken disaster.

All the cutring headgaskets said 85ft lbs for the headstuds. ARP's spec is 75. I have snapped 2000's by overtorquing them so I did 80. Since I am using a techangle wrench, I could see that some of them ended up at 85 anyway, big deal.

I managed to mess up the threads on the oil pan drain. Sweet. Aparently there are kits with a tap and drain plugs that are a tiny bit bigger, so I think ill do that.

Fixed the coolant leak at the heater core connection. Instead of a straight hose on it that got kinked, i found a 90 degree hose on amazon that was the right size and that stopped the kinking.

My brakes are messed up. I think the plunger is sitting sideways between the master and the booster. This happened to me before. After 15 minutes of driving, all 4 wheels lock up. I jacked the car up and the wheels wouldnt budge at all. Going to have to remove the master cylinder asap and get this fixed.

Low beams dont work. No power at 13 or 14 fuses, gotta figure this out. I hope its not inside the fuse box. The relay clicks. I really need the low beams to work.

Made a temp catch can setup. Decided not to run my intake for now (just a filter) as its too crowded to make a line from the can to the intake. Just venting to atmo.

Me and my buddy figured out that my hybrid racing FPR isnt working properly. At the very end of yesterday we tried out an aeromotive FPR and everything worked much better. 50psi of fuel pressure. With the HR one, I can't get the pressure to go under 80 psi at idle, or at least thats what 2 different gauges said. Good to have friends who are into racing and have extra regulators sitting around.

And he has a car scale laying around.

My guess was 2700 given I still have carpet, have the roll bar, half a tank of gas, and some crap in the trunk (maybe 40-50lbs of stuff?)

IMG_0454 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

and with me in the drivers seat

IMG_0456 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

Im hoping with no crap in the trunk, and no sound deadening ill be down to under 2600 without me in it.

New 16" spal fan did the trick. I had to cut the fan clutch threads off the water pump. There is like no clearance. Temp doesnt really climb much past 94 C.

Made a new turbo oil feed line, last one was a different color and was leaking and a little messed up. You can see it here with the rest of everything.

IMG_0458 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

Need to find a way to hide some of the vac lines and get a new coolant res. The yellow stained one is such an eyesore.

I think I need gauges too. Even with my laptop up, I am used to PSI and AFR. I can't convert KPA and lambda in my head that fast to know when to step off.

And finally, I hit wastegate pressure, and nearly crapped my pants. ITS SO LOUD and fast. It actually hit 20psi and pulled a fuel cut on me. Gotta figure that out.

IMG_0459 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

I hate that PCV line.

IMG_0460 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

and finally.

IMG_0461 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

Good news is almost nothing is leaking. Before there would be a pool of oil on my skidplate. Now its dry under the car.

And finally I ripped the lip off getting it back on the drive on lift. Nice end to the weekend.

and I don't know if this works but heres a reving video. Not trying to toot my own horn but it sounds awesome.

video-1531691014 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

Next few weeks need to be beast mode. Moving is closing in and work is crazy and this car needs to be drivable.

[BUDNUNTA]

who in MD did your VEMS install?

[TeXJ]

I would be able to fit it if it weren't for my oil cooler. From front to back I have FMIC>Oil cooler>Radiator and there all pretty close to each other. I also ditched the whole stock rad fan switch and now it is ECU controlled based on coolant temp too (just on and off, no PWM).

Is there a write up on that?

[mitchlevy7]

So you're mounting the fan between the motor and radiator? I have a stock fan mounted in front of the radiator. Didn't think there is room the other way.

I would be able to fit it if it weren't for my oil cooler. From front to back I have FMIC>Oil cooler>Radiator and there all pretty close to each other. I also ditched the whole stock rad fan switch and now it is ECU controlled based on coolant temp too (just on and off, no PWM).

The fan I bought is supposed to be 2.25" thick. The only thing that really gets close to it is the water pump pulley. If its 100% needed I can cut the clutch fan threads off the water pump to give me another inch of clearance. I am running condor delrin mounts so there should be little to no movement of the motor.

Instead of going down to SC to find a place to live, I'm going to be working on it this weekend with the goal of being able to drive it around with no issues on sunday. wish me luck. I really hope the cutrings didn't move when I put the head on.

Im also hoping theres no wiring issues, I cant get the low beams to turn on at all. Didn't help that the relay was totally missing, but even switching one of the other orange relays over didn't help. I bought the OEM bosch low beam relay so hopefully this fixes the issue. I need low beams to be able to drive. Any suggestions on an H1 LED kit?

[TeXJ]

So you're mounting the fan between the motor and radiator? I have a stock fan mounted in front of the radiator. Didn't think there is room the other way.

[mitchlevy7]

did you know an m52 head is kinda heavy for one guy to pickup by himself?

head off, block flattened, copper 0.068 spacer and 0.07 cutring gasket installed, head back on.

going to scope the cylinders to make sure the cutrings stayed in place, and then tighten the headstuds. then loosen them. then tighten them. then tighten them more.

spal fan came in. 16" is huge compared to the 12" one I had before. She better keep the temps in control because I cant fit anything in front.

Redid all the fuel lines in crimp russel fittings.

she better not leak this time.

[mitchlevy7]

Theres a little bit of uptravel, maybe?

This was a really frustrating weekend. I thought the car was close enough that a few hours of tuning and messing around was going to make it streetable.

-I installed the wrong Cam sensor o-ring. The m50 has a 2mm thick o-ring vs the m52 is 3mm thick. I got random thicker o-ring in there in the meantime. I think I forgot it on the m52 (block mounted) crank sensor too.

-I think the headgasket is leaking oil externally, onto the downpipe. Not safe. The motor is just leaking oil out of every orface idling for 2 minutes and theres a puddle under the car.

-I think the timing cover and vanos are leaking. Someone put a bolt (instead of a stud) in the leftmost vanos hole and stripped the threads out. Bolt just spins. Ordered the nut and stud and going to helicoil it.

-Vibrant pushlock fittings....well one of the hoses popped off the fitting on my fuel feed line. That was scary. Going to switch to real ss line and russell crimp fittings. That was a nice waste of $200.

-The only -10 fitting I have left for the valve cover/pcv system doesnt clear the hood.

-The fan cant keep the car at temperature sitting there idling. Creeps up to 105C.

-Intake manifold is still squishing the top heater core line, even after shaving the fin it was hitting.

-Turned out I had a 12psi spring in my TiAL BOV. Went down to 10psi, think its still too stiff. Going to try 8...

-I had a vacuum cap on the PCV fitting on the throttle boot. Now I don't. Must've popped off. Figuring out a new solution.

So, I spent my last dime on:

-16" spal fan to replace the 12".
-Vanos stud and nut
-Cam and crank sensor seals.
-Timing Cover gaskets
-90 degree hose for heater core
-Low profile -10 90 degree adapter
-JE Proseal cutring headgasket
-Honing/knife sharpening stone to get deck flattened
-tie rod end (pass side boot is cut)

Also the brakes seemed to be sticking in front.

I hit like 9 pounds of boost though...

[TeXJ]

Looks like you have no uptravel.

[mitchlevy7]

Thank you!

Yesterday I left work after lunch to pick up the o-ring and go work on the car.

Things Completed:

-Put a few more gallons of gas in it. Hopefully next time it needs gas it will get there on its own

-Relocated the outside harness strap to the roll bar and tightened the roll bar bolts.

-reinstalled basically the whole front suspension

IMG_0400 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

-installed my red 46 skid plate

-installed the o-ring for the cam sensor

-Tried to fix the coolant leak at the heater core and failed

The front fitment is like...exactly how I wanted

IMG_0402 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

Even at this height, the skidplate has some clearance. Shit, on the old car it wouldnt be a drive if i didn't smack the skidplate on the ground at least once.

[jeenyus]

love the meat tires. beautiful car.

[TeXJ]

need more pics/vids man!

[mitchlevy7]

Drove it this weekend. Its a BEAST. Hit 5 psi.

Installed the new oil filter housing. Finished wiring and testing the EBCS and Fan setup.

Its leaking coolant at the heater core, I think the manifold is hitting it?

And I forgot the o-ring for the cam sensor. Explains the puddle of oil under the car. So much pain in the ass for a $1 part.

I also finished removing the stock perches for the front springs and welded garagetastic spring perches on. I made the mistake on the first one to grind the whole stock perch flat to the housing, which left a huge gap to weld up. Doubled up on filler and banged it out. No more nightmares about my springs falling through the perch and my car destroying itself.

IMG_0394 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

I feels SO good to drive and the AKG stage 2 shifter is amazing. I wish I caught some driving on video. My friend was behind me doing a wheelie on his dirtbike as I was driving.

[mitchlevy7]

Lots of updates from 2 weekends of work.

Finally got it running on the VEMS. I had to play with the ignition outputs and open the throttle body a little bit more. It ran like total crap though. After going back through it, it turns out that the base tune was for a 2.5L, not the 2.8L that I have.

Things Completed the last few weekends:
-Running on VEMS
-Wired in Fan relay (to be controlled by ECU)
-Wired in EBCS (also ECU controlled)
-Installed M50 valve cover w/ obd1 coils (had to buy new ones ) and new VC gasket. Was unaware the gasket was different too.
-Heat wrapped downpipe (arms still itch)
-Rolled both fenders (roller broke midway through so I had to buy the repair kit and finish yesterday)
-Installed both seats
-Installed new PC680 51r battery
-Installed a petcock drain for radiator
-Installed front lip (crap ebay fitment wasn't aligned with the end a valance)

New Issues that Arose:

-Need good mounting point for harness on outside. Right now I have it in the seat mount but I don't like the idea of a m6 bolt and aluminum. I think I am going to mount to one of the roll bar bolts (grade 10 3/8").

-Coolant leaking from spider hose by heater core. It was covered by a vacuum cap which didn't hold well. There is a splice/T there. Going to change it to a 3/4" hose barb splice (someone please tell me if this is the wrong size, this is based of a guess and some research)

-I bought a used oil filter housing for the build a long time ago. I was a little sketched out to see permatex on it at the 2 plug points. Turns out they were leaking oil pretty bad as the permatex was covering the fact that the circlip for the plugs were totally missing. I ordered a new oil filter housing, gasket, and vanos washers. Cheapest price happened to be Getbmwparts, which is right down the street! Going to prematurely do the first oil change when it comes in.

-Mounting for the battery is not ideal. The plastic battery tray doesnt give rigidity to it. I don't think its going anywhere, but I dont think ill pass tech. Thinking of other solutions.

-Seems to be some oil leaking from either the pass side of the motor. Either cylinder head (hope not), vanos (new gasket), or timing cover. I really don't like this. If I take the head off im switching to a cutring gasket.

To do:

-Fix Coolant Leak
-Fix Oil leak/install new OFH/ do oil change.
-Get it running/idling and go for a test drive.
-Order VEMS bluetooth module and a tablet mount
-Mount window switches (any ideas?)
-Figure out a oil temp/pressure gauge situation. It ran through my mind to just run a digital dash but its a little too expensive right now. I have an old prosport setup and also a PLX wideband. Thinking of running the PLX and either multigage setup so I have 1 gauge for everything. I don't like having 5 gauges in my face except when tuning.
-Remount harness in a safer way.
-Figure out headlight situation. One of the adjuster tabs on my brand new lights broke so its super floppy.
-Clean the car
-figure out catch can setup/make lines. I added a -10 bulkhead to the valve cover and a weld fitting in the turbo inlet for this.


Here are pics

IMG_0349 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

valve cover w/ bulkhead fitting

IMG_0353 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

doing some rolling

IMG_0368 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

current battery setup

IMG_0370 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

lip installed

IMG_0371 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

meaty fitment

IMG_0372 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

source of coolant leak (there was a vacuum cap on it before)

IMG_0351 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

video of it running on VEMS

IMG_0374 by mitchlevy7, on Flickr

engine bay pic w/ obd1 valve cover, coils, heat wrapped downpipe. The strut bar is missing though.