Forgot to ask. Any recommendations on a good place to buy a new blinker switch ? I don't want to pay out the ass but don't want some cheap china junk that will fail in a month.
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Been driving the 325 to work this week. It runs good but it's no 318is. Lol. Found out that my boss (the son) is a BMW lover. He's going to try and get some e30 parts cars for the yard for me. I work at an auto salvage yard. I'm going to look into swapping the rear for a 373 one. I have a loud humming at speed that I have to check into. I'm thinking its a wheel bearing but not sure. The nice part is now I can run free gas. Didn't want to run it in my 08 Malibu LTZ. I have to get a new turn signal switch to fix my headlights. If I keep the switch on low, it will flicker between low and high with any vibration. I don't have the problem if I put the switch on high.Comment
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My front right wheel bearing is bad so I have a new one on the way from Rock Auto. It's gong to be a nice weekend so I'll get a little more work done.Comment
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If you plan on doing any highway driving, avoid the 3.73 diff. Go for a 3.25 out of an e28 if you can. It makes a huge difference on an eta and is not bad at highway cruising speeds. Do that and a chip and you will be surprised at how much fun the car will be.Comment
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That is a point with the ETA engine. I want it fast on take off but don't want to be running near red line if I'm cruising 70-75. Maybe I just need to fix myself and stop expecting it to run like my 318is did. It will be faster one day but the budget is super tight at this point in time.Comment
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Got a little bit of work done today. Installed my Walmart seat covers. Don't laugh,it's an improvement .lol.installed my Chrome BMW badge license plate on the front. Adjusted my throttle cable. It has a huge amount of play in it. I'm enjoying slowly making it better then it was even know it's basically fixing stuff at this point.Comment
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Have this car at work. Is this the correct setup for a engine swap or a I conversion for an ETA engine ?
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Nothing to do with my car but just wanted to post a pic of this old BmW that's at my work.
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Shame about that E24. I'd snag the trunk spoiler, looks like it's in decent shape. Resell on ebay. And no, the engine pictured is wrong for an e to i swap. If cost is a factor, start with a full tune-up and a chip. Easy-peasy. Then a diff. The diff in that 6er could be a 3.25 or 3.46, which would be great with your eta. Find out what year it is, should be on a label in driver door jamb. Looks like a fairly early one, though.Comment
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The 3/5i is a 92. I've been reading a little about using an I intake and exhaust setup on the ETA head as an upgrade. I still don't know much on it yet. I really really want to do a rear swap. It feels to slow with the stock gears. I just want to do it up so it pulls hard threw the gears.Comment
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'92 = E36 325i = M50 engine. Can't swap head onto an eta M20 engine. Swapping the whole M50 engine, however, can be done. There are lots of options for an e to i swap, but cheapest way to start is a chip and diff.Comment
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As others have said, a 3.25 out of an e28 5 series is a great differential option for an eta. It will give you better acceleration, while still complimenting the low rev limit.
A strong running eta with a 3.25 and a chip is a very solid performing car. It's not a rocket, but it's no slouch either. Add a few other items, like an I exhaust swap, intake, and short shift kit, and it will sound and perform excellent.
As for audio, just follow stereoinstaller1's guide, and you will be happy.Comment
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The m50 in the 92 325 can be swapped in, but with your limited funds, you would probably be better off just making the most out of the 2.7 for now.Comment
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Changed my front wheel bearing on my lunch break today. It's so nice to not have the loud humming noise now. I still have to check into the multiple thumping noise when I get on it. It sounds just like an exhaust pipe bumping against the body. It just as well may be. I haven't checked it out get. It only does it when rear squats down low on hard take off. As for the sound system, I'm going to be running a 12" Luke box for sure and components up front.Comment
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You likely need front and rear upper strut/shock mounts. I just replaced these on my '86 es not long ago along with new struts/shocks, what a difference! Luckily, they are fairly cheap to buy, rears are easy to install, just a couple of minutes on each side. Fronts are more involved, not hard, just time consuming. Driveshaft center support bearing could be about shot, too. Again, not a real pricey part nor difficult to replace....just takes a little while. That would definitely produce a thumping noise on hard acceleration, and you'd feel some vibrations too, particularly in the transmission tunnel in front of the rear seats. If that goes bad on the highway, you're boned. All those parts together might set you back $120 from autohausaz (free shipping over $75!) and day's work. Easy-peasy.Comment
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