Turbo Inka 4 Door: Stripped & street legal rotisserie build + Powdercoating Pr0n

[eduTechnic]

Did some work today.

After trying to heat the bolt (MAPP), 10' pole on a wrench, 1/2" impact, 3/4" impact, my brother-in-law decided to combine forces and stacked the pole on the wrench with the 3/4" impact on the end and we finally got it loose. What a lil B.



Looks like the HG went on cyl # 6.


Cams look really good. Cyl walls look great besides some rust around the upper section on #6.

Got my e34 pan/pickup/dipschtick stuff from a pick 'n pull e34 as well. It was disgusting, filthy little whore of a car.

Sidenote, these are beautiful:

[eduTechnic]

What a weekend. My bro-in-law and I headed to the SLC pick 'n pull to see what we could see. I didn't get the M50 swap parts out of the 95 525i I needed but I did get this lump.


Rear sumps can suck it. We tried to jimmy that thang (thang = engine/trans/shifter) outta thurr with the front subframe attached. No go. So to the rescue came the IR cordless impact. Zzz zzz and loosen the steering linkage the whole subframe assembly crunched into the gravel below. Done.

Biggest problem was after I paid for it and carted the engine/trans/intake/harness to my van and got my HF hoist out the hoist wouldn't jack up like it needed to be bled. At this point we'd been working in 95 degree weather for a few hours and were dying. After some cuss words we split the engine & trans, took off the harness/intake and heave hoe'd that sucker into my van. I'm pretty sure I popped some gaskets in my legs and back and bruised the crap out of my arms in the process. My bro-in-law is a good soul for enduring that crap.

Got the engine home, slid it down some plywood onto a tire, vacuumed the leaves off it.

Voila, M50B25NV out of a 92 e36.


Other build notes:

Ordered the following:
F&R 5 lug hub adapter with e36/e46 M3 caliper brackets but no BMW parts, just the adapters
Need:
e36/46 calipers (minimum wheel size for each???)
pads
caliper rebuild kits
do my SS lines for stock e30 brakes work?
rotors (Brembo blanks)

Euro grills from St!g in Iderho

Used from a R3v member:
M50 swap mounts from Condor
G260 transmission cross brace (not sure if using G250 or G260)
iX Brake booster
10 deg twist UUC DSSR for G260 w/ M5X

To do:

Break down M50 and inspect
Leak-test head
Build blast cabinet (sheet metal, plexi, rubber cow-butt-hole-invasion gloves)
build powder coat oven
Plan out garage booth setup to be able to take down/put up easily for garage door opening
bleed the #@$!@#$ing hoist
get another engine stand if the m50 checks out
Make a huge FS ad with all my m20 turbo thangs [read: HMU if you need m20 tarboh parts]

[eduTechnic]

From what I've read. The m54b30 crank is the very same (part number and all) as the s52 crank.

Yep that's true

That's really awesome.
I love how BMW made everything so easy to chop and change and have basically every combo you can think of.

Yeah it's pretty sweet. A few friends are even blown away at the simple recipe for an m50 swap.

[econti]

That's really awesome.
I love how BMW made everything so easy to chop and change and have basically every combo you can think of.

[eurolife]

From what I've read. The m54b30 crank is the very same (part number and all) as the s52 crank.

[eduTechnic]

Too easy. What do you do with rods and pistons? B30 rods and custom height pistons, to clear the valves?

Yep you guessed it. I'm trying to figure out a setup to get < 9:1 compression. I'm still calculating but I'd like to go m54b30 crankshaft with custom rods & pistons to get ~8.5:1 CR.

This is mostly for myself for future reference but...

From wikipedia:

M50B25 stroke: 75 mm (3.0 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.0:1 rod Length: 135mm
M50B25tu stroke: 75 mm (3.0 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.5:1 rod Length: 140mm (less deck clearance + deeper valve reliefs when compared to the m50b25?)
M54B25 stroke: 75.0 mm (2.95 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.5:1 rod length: 135mm
M54B30 stroke: 89.6 mm (3.53 in) bore: 84 mm (3.3 in) CR: 10.2:1 rod length: 135mm

On this thread there's some cool info on the stock m54b30 setup and OP's aftermarket arrow rod/CP piston combo. With identical piston to deck heights of 3.7mm and deeper valve reliefs he netted 9.2:1 compression.

Maybe this same setup (with cheaper H beam rods from IE & CP pistons, Arrows are like $300 each) would work okay but I only have 91 octane here in Utah.

All other things aside, we'll see where I'm going once I come back from the pick 'n pull tomorrow with my buddy. We plan on pulling an m50b25 nv from an e36 and an e34 m50b25tu. If the NV block looks good once I strip it down I'll try to stick with the 84mm bore. If it needs work I'll buy the 3.0l crank FS here on r3v & get a quote from the machine shop, which I'll be visiting anyway. This thread is something I just found and find very desirable. To bad the dude didn't update.

This link has piston stats to avoid when ordering.

I just found out how to get TC working with MS3 when the time comes as well: VSS speed vs. front hub abs sensor. Looks like you can set the threshold difference.

Crank/piston/rod details for later reference: Link

[econti]

No you don't. That's the beauty of it. M50/52/54 all use the same design as far as I know after a few days researching it.

Too easy. What do you do with rods and pistons? B30 rods and custom height pistons, to clear the valves?

[eduTechnic]

Do you have to do anything to fit the 3L crank to M50 block?

No you don't. That's the beauty of it. M50/52/54 all use the same design as far as I know after a few days researching it.

[econti]

Do you have to do anything to fit the 3L crank to M50 block?

[eduTechnic]

sub'd. all these Utah builds ive been finding recently excite me!

Welcome to the e30 chubzone.

[eurolife]

sub'd. all these Utah builds ive been finding recently excite me!

[eduTechnic]

Pretty psyched about this. It's rotating! I just did a quick test. I still need to connect the ends together underneath. It was pretty unstable and wanted to fall to the passenger side so I kept a jack stand under that frame rail. Just a quick test then off to bed.



Pulled the whole harness through the firewall. I took like 10 minutes to untangle everything before I pulled it through only to tangle it worse when it ended up in a pile in the empty engine bay.

If you pull your harness, have someone help you in the engine bay and pull it passed the car and lay it all out nice and neat. I untangled it a bit and laid it out behind the car. I need to pin it up on the wall in the shape it sits in like those injection molds of the circulatory system or something. /nerd.

Pic of the harness


Out of the car


Plan is to pull an M50/M50tu/M52 this weekend. We'll see what looks better. I LOVE row52.com for pick 'n pull stuff. Thoughts are if the 92 325i doesn't looked too clapped out I'll grab that motor and trans and possibly another long block in the way of an e34 m50tu for the pan/pickup/throttle cable/dipschtick.

M54b30 crank + custom pistons & rods...you vile temptress.

I'm trying to decide between these turbos:

Precision PT5558 T3 with 3" outlet

or

Garret GTX3071R

Even those Kinugawas look really good for $4-500 less. I just want to do this once.

I love how my current turbo works (T3 Td04e .60 ar with 3" inlet/outlet). Great spool, great range, it's just kind of cheap.

[eduTechnic]

I started messing around in Photoshop. I'm not a pro but this is some image I found using the wheels I've got and it's in darker lighting but it's close to hennarot.



I've sourced an M52B28 out of an auto 528i but I'm still debating sticking with my m20 and going to a built bottom end and non-ebay turbo, just to have all the aftermarket support and accessibility to better manifolds. Trying to resist buying the m54b30 crank someone is selling in FS/FT right now...

[eduTechnic]

Well with the new kid here and much less sleep I haven't got as much time as I'd like with the car but I did get some things done.

I was running off the 2 60w bulbs on the garage door motor and one 60w bulb from a motion-activated light in the garage. Suffice it to say I used a portable flight from Autozone and a headlight a lot. I found 4 sets of 2-bulb fluorescent fixtures and got to some home wiring...which I hate. Luckly the breaker box is right inside the wall the garage and kitchen share and there was a single switch for the outside garage lights. I got them all wired up after an hour in the 140 degree attic and voila.



It is now bright as the sun and I can see every detail from every angle.

As far as the car goes the pedal box is now out. HVAC box is out. Wiring harness has a couple dumb things to sort out then will be pulled out as well so I can flip this puppy upside down.

[eduTechnic]

Awesome! That white valve cover is awesome, do itt!

Yeah I agree I love that look. If everything is powdercoated it will be easy to see leaks and clean things.

We had our baby July 4th at 10pm, just as the fireworks started. That gave me 5 week days off plus 2 weekends. While I mostly helped out and cleaned/organized/took care of the bambinos, I got a little work done.

Welded up the rear rotisserie bar to the bumper mounts. Welds are getting better.

20140711_225924

I'm using this late 80s Century 5 star welder I picked up for $120 with like 80lbs or older rod.

20140711_225915

It's pretty cool. It AC/DC welds and has a high frequency arc stabilizer and tig torch out as well. I've been messing around on difference thicknesses of metal and another rusted out sunroof panel. Stick welding sheet metal is hard! I bought some e7024 "drag" rod to try out and some 1/16" e6013. Here goes nuthin!

I may have to get a TIG setup at some point. Between a crap HF flux wire welder and the stick, I dont' have ideal options for weldign the sunroof panel back in but I may still try.

Anyway we got the car jacked up from both ends and were able to slide each end of the rotisserie on. I need to connect each side now, get the dash, HVAC, and wiring harness along with everything that's loose on/in the car and try flipping this thing over.

20140712_004552