E24 - Schlampe

[dewme5]

This almost has me bothered. I've never looked inside of a valve cover, and seen it so clean.



Seems all of the oil was leaving through the cam seal.


Since I'm going with the Megasquirt 3/extra. I needed a better trigger. I could have found parts from a m30b35, but this was quick and easy for me.




LS2 / D585 coils, with some Taylor wires. The bracket is not finished, but I think it looks interesting.

[dewme5]

Anyone have an idea of what the "M" on the cam means?


After the paint. Started wiring up the Megasquirt too, but it looks like quite the mess, so I'll post the simple one.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

I love m30s cant wait to get mine. Good luck with all the rust I feel like i'm in the same boat as you everytime I patch one piece of rust I find more and more, but just like you I'm already balls deep so the show must go on!

[dewme5]

What is the name/source for the gas pedal socket in the floor board? Mine is in need of replacement.

[dewme5]

Just fired the engine up for the first time. Injectors, coils, crank, and cam sensor is all that was hooked up the Megasquirt 3x. Running full sequential fuel and spark. (I had the MS from my last project, otherwise I probably would have gone plug-n-play)

My engine stand, is the cherry picker with the engine and trans sitting on the legs, sideways, with a jack stand under one of the exhaust manifolds. Simple, and functional. Old fuel tank with pump from the previous project sits in there as well.

I didn't "prepare" as well as I should of. I hooked up the basics, just wanting to hear it run after running through some adjustments to get the crank and cam sensors working. Lots of vacuum lines are still open, no coolant, no exhaust, etc. Anyway, it cranks, but nothing. So, cut the fuel in half, try again, it sputters. Cut in half again, it fires right up, and immediately goes towards 4000rpm. Should have plugged the big intake leak (3/4" nipple between the throttle body, and the cold start injector)

I also should have done an oil change prior to attempting to start it. I have no idea what oil is in there, but I'm sure after sitting for 6 years, it's junk now.

On the good side of things. The engine sounded great. Tight, consistent, and smooth.

[dewme5]

Time to clean out the gas tank. I should have gotten a picture inside the tank, there were lots of extras/trash in there. Chunks of debris, and some black tar goop, that was in the return tube. Carb cleaner made light work of it, but I'm not sure what it is, or where it came from. The tank got a good scrubbing, inside and out. All debris removed, and then dried out. Before putting the tank back in place, I used the external pump to cycle fresh gas through the system for a good long while. If something was in there, a few gallons of fresh gas would hopefully dilute it and wash it out.



The other thing achieved today.. BALLER status.


Yeah.. not really, these are the stock back wheels off my wifes 535i. I just wanted to get an idea of fitment, and a visual for reference. What I can say, is they fit. I can also so I need to lower this car a little bit, it looks like there is a lift kit on it right now.

[dewme5]

The Drive Shaft Incident..

Well, the slip yoke is supposed to slip right? Yeah, that's what I thought too.

The carrier support bearing was no good. I've never driven the car, so I found out how bad things were when pulling the engine and trans. The CSB had totally fallen apart. You can also see that the U-joints are not lined up, possibly why the CSB wen't bad.




Remember that mention of not sliding apart, here was my fix. I wrapped a few straps around separate sections, and tied into the engine hoist.


Add heat, and tap with a hammer. over and over and over..


The finished product after cleaning up and reassembly.



I marked the halves prior to taking apart, but since they were out of alignment, I aligned them correctly, as close to the markings as possible. We'll just have to see how the balance is after driving it.

[anabolice30]

What did you do to get the water out of the tire well? Just curious, for some odd reason.

[Kevinl]

Nice

don't see much e24 content here

[Shock(/\)ave]

I'm really interested in this project and hope you see it through to an awesome result, but before you get too far into it and get emotionally invested I'd suggest you keep an eye out for another shell that's less rusty. You should have a lot of decent parts on your current car that you could apply to a new shell, and you'll likely end up pretty far ahead both in time and money starting with a better car.

With that out of the way I think the E24 platform will definitely please you once you've finished your work. :)

[dewme5]

What did you do to get the water out of the tire well? Just curious, for some odd reason.

Shop vac. Then left it open in the sunlight to cook the rest out. I thought that had worked quite well, but a week later I went back, and the tire well was still dry, but the sound deadening was wet underneath. I pulled it out, and was very surprised at the weight. A 12" x 12" section was 10 pounds, maybe a little bit more. I really pulled about 50 pounds out of my trunk! I'll put something back in, but not 50 pounds worth!

Nice

don't see much e24 content here

The e24 is pretty sexy, not sure why they aren't more popular for builds.

I'm really interested in this project and hope you see it through to an awesome result, but before you get too far into it and get emotionally invested I'd suggest you keep an eye out for another shell that's less rusty. You should have a lot of decent parts on your current car that you could apply to a new shell, and you'll likely end up pretty far ahead both in time and money starting with a better car.

With that out of the way I think the E24 platform will definitely please you once you've finished your work. :)

I would sort of agree, but I wanted a project, and I didn't want to "destroy" a great example of one of these cars. Lots of purists seem to love them, and I do not plan on keeping mine pure.

For every bad, there is a good it seems. The motor is tight, and clean. Hatch marks with no grooving in the cylinders. Body is straight. just 3 small golf ball dents in total. Rust replacement is confined to just the front foot wells, and the fronts of the rear wheel well's. I'm not finding any more surprise rust as I go through it all. The diff seems in great shape, the wiring has not botch jobs, dash worked. I'm going to classify this one in the still worth saving area.

[Alpina]

Currently, the M30b34 and G280 sits in the engine bay, in unknown condition.

Does this car have Getrag 280 ??

[dewme5]

Does this car have Getrag 280 ??

According to the vin break down sites it does. I'm not super familiar with the getrag series, but the best I can tell by looking at it, it's a 265.

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[dewme5]

Brakes. I might have an issue with the rears. When bleeding the brakes, I was able to do the fronts, but not the rears. No fluid would come out. I pulled the bleeder screws, and there was fluid present, but not moving under pressure. I didn't have time to look into it, but I'm guessing the brake pressure regulators (PN 15) are seized up, or something in the ABS.



Also, did an oil change, what are the extra O-rings for? Large rubber one for the canister, medium copper for the canister bolt, then there was a smaller steel one, and a even smaller rubber o-ring. Where do the 2 small ones go?