Penny: The whored-out '87 325is

[yodman]

Morning everyone! I'm a new guy here at r3v. Name's Cody. I'm a full-time mechanical engineering employee at Bosch and a full-time student.

Been checking out the forum for a few days, and decided it's time to introduce my project.

This is my 1987 325is, which is a massive work in progress. I've been taking my time to learn any and everything I can about this car, it's issues, and some tricks I can do. However, I do intend to take her back to her stock appearance, as she has suffered greatly over her years.

To explain the 'whored-out' tag, our story begins in California.

Friend #1 bought this car in early 2012 from the second owners. It had 209k on it then. Not 50 miles after he bought it, the odometer quit working entirely and has not since. He bought it completely stock. It was bronzit on beige, and it was actually prettier than it is now. The car served him well for six months. He tripped to Nevada for skiing in the mountains, tripped all over California, lived in the Bay area, and also traveled up to the PNW a few times. Probably put nearly 15k on it during this time. Drove it day in and day out.

Friend #1 and I are best friends due to our equally problematic euro car obsessions. Friend #2 knew Friend #1 through school, but I had not met #2 ever before. Friend #2 flew out to California at the same time I did because he wanted to buy this BMW and I wanted to roadtrip across the country in a pair of old euros (the other car is a '92 VR6 VW GTI with 180k at this point). So, the three of us set off for Michigan, and Friend #2 and I got to know each other well.

Needless to say, the car made it across with no troubles. Fast forward to late Summer 2013, Friend #2 has had the car but had no time to drive it, so instead he went about 'improving' some things. The carpet went, as did the padding underneath that was super moldy (expensive fix, I know). Parcel shelf and third brake light went, door panels all went, trunk tar went, center console went, driver's underside dash also went. HE THREW IT ALL AWAY! He wanted to rally-cross the car, and I understood this.

Then, the car changed hands to Friend #3, who I bought it from. He owned it until three weeks ago. Drove it occasionally, replaced a bunch of stuff Friend #2 discarded with much nicer black parts, and bought maintenance parts that were included with the sale of the car.

The name Nadya came from Friend #2, and the car is obviously whored-out because four people who know each other well have owned the car in a 2.5 year period. The difference of me owning it is that I have time to burn (sometimes), and I actually drive my cars.

Here's the basic breakdown:
-'87 325is
-240k+ miles
-original 3.73 swapped for a 2.93 LSD (NOT a choice I would've made)
-new coolant hoses/coolant
-new rear strut mounts (had originals still, one blown through)
-seats are black bolster/beige center
-new shifter and e-brake boots

Here's what's broken/missing:
-dash cracked to hell
-steering wheel is very tired
-center console missing
-carpet/foam missing
-iS front lip (acquired, needing hardware to install)
-odometer quit
-brake lining light on (what for I don't know, lines look good and clean)
-driver's window off track (mounting tabs broken)
-passenger window in-op
-OBC backlight is out, hard to see except in sunlight or with phone light
-voltage regulator is going, new one arrives tomorrow
-needs a driver side tie rod end (doing a suspension refresh kit over winter)

Car runs amazing, with the occasional time where she will turn and not get enough fuel to start, but starts immediately on next crank.

My plans:
-drive it
-bring it back to stock iS glory
-paint it some other color than puke
-smileys/ellipsoids
-summer wheels (bottlecaps are not my choice in a good looking wheel)
-rear valence
-tucked and paint matched bumpers

I've got some Hankook iPikes to install later this week. This thing will be fun in winter with some weight in the trunk.

If you guys have parts that I need (under the broken/missing section) please let me know. I like rare stuff, too.

This is my first Bavarian, and I do come from the VW world (not the vortex), but I have taste and can take criticism. I don't intend to be too weird. ;D

Here are some pictures of the ugly duckling:

First picture shows her in her 'modified' stage... At least the black hood looked better than torn up like it is in the other shots. The black MK2 is the other cross-country car mentioned before, the white MK2 was mine at the time (it was a beater, and rough underneath), and the brown one was a DD I was prepping for a friend.

Rest of the pictures show her current stage. I added the kidneys back immediately, as well as some euro headlight grilles with the eyebrow.

[yodman]

I learned yesterday that this car was owned by a pair of enthusiasts in California before my series of friends who owned it. Therefore, I also learned that it was overhauled during that time and that makes me happy. The suspension (apart from the strut mounts), engine accessories, and cylinder head were revived sometime in 2010 or 2011.

I also learned yesterday that the ABS system still works on this old beast and it saved my life, as well as that of another. Call it what you will, but I had a close shave with death and destruction and somehow narrowly avoided it.

Anyways, here's the front end currently, and for the winter:



Here's the gap I skillfully shot at 55, and you can see where I came to rest in the distance. I am standing in the driveway where a car pulled out and stopped in front of me:



Here's the only damage to the car. Some dirt and a light bend on the bottom of the body just below the radiator:



Everything else is fine. Car is good, I was terrified, and she saved my life.

[rcsoundn1]

Good start welcome, and I love rebuilds. Taking something thats on its way out and saving/improving it. Here is an answer to one of your question:
"brake lining light on (what for I don't know, lines look good and clean)"
DS front caliper and PS rear caliper have a brake pad wear sensor. The pad material is referred to as the "Brake lining." So either some of your pads are worn or the sensor is bad or disconnected.
Keep chipping away at it.

[yodman]

Thanks! I'm super excited to own one of these cars. It's a blast to drive, a total pleasure, and has a huge quality hike over my VWs of the same vintage.

Indeed I did know about those sensors, and I just had the wheels off the other night. The pads have a good 6-7mm left on them and the rotors are good. The sensors either don't exist on these pads or are disconnected. I also think those brakes have been on the car for 4 or 5 years.

Please excuse the potato phone quality of my photos. I haven't shot it with my DSLR yet.

[yodman]

So, here's a few of my other rides as well:

My Rabbit Pickup, 1982, painted Porsche GT3RS Signal Green:



My 1983 Oldsmobile Hurst/Olds Cutlass, all stock, 33k original miles:



My ex-1986 GTI, downdraft carburetor, 10:1 compression, probably 125 HP, rough around the edges, but FUN:



My ex-1990 Mustang LX 5.0, track ready suspension and cage, mild bolt-on parts, 260 hp:



My other baby, the 1990 Jetta Coupe VR6, going turbo and track suspension soon, painted VW Magma Orange (Fahrenheit MK5 GTI color):



My ex-2011 Mustang V6, 330 hp with a tune, intake, exhaust, and 3.73 rear end...FUN car:



My ex-2004 Mustang V6, my first car, had done an IRS swap from a Cobra, mild mods:



My current daily 2013 GTI with a DSG, comfy, fast, handles awesome:



Last but not least, my ex-2012 Jetta TDI SportWagen 6-speed, loaded, NICE car:

[yodman]

Because for some reason I like bright colored cars, I am going to test some yellow on her. I may end up actually painting her VW Ginster Yellow. We will see.

Renamed her Penny, as Nadya seemed too wrong. Also decided a europlate that will say PNYPNCHR

[yodman]

So. Installed a new head unit today. Wired per our writeup here at r3v. Caused a small short during my wire job because of my own stupidity, replaced the fuse, drove the car.

An hour later it wouldn't start.

Got jump started, drove home, no issues, gonna check if it fires up in a few hours.

Thoughts? No other issues with the car.

Oh! And the radio only turns on when I have parking lights on. As soon as they go off, so does the radio and its memory disappears.

[E30NJ]

Did you switch your constant (memory) 12v wire with the power 12v wire?

[yodman]

Per the writeup I had used, no sir I did it properly.

This is the one I used and followed.

HEAD UNIT INSTALL:

took down the thermostat write up as it was not something i would want anyone to follow, i would feel bad..

The official e30 Aftermarket Radio Install Write up!
If you have the premium system ( tweeter on doors, plate speakers on rear deck )

* Yellow wire from new head 12v+ goes to Red/grn in dash
* Red wire from head ign goes to purple/wht in dash
* Black wire goes to brown wire in dash plus two extra brn/blks that were attached to old head. There will be three wires total hooked to the black from new head.
* Blue/wht from new head goes to both white wires in dash. If you don't have a blue/wht on new head, use the blue.
* That will leave three wires:
* If your new head has a dimmer lead ( usually orange ) it will attach to the red/grn lead in dash. If the new head does not, TAPE THIS OFF. No sense blowing fuses now when you are so close to sound.
* White wire from new head goes to yellow wire in dash
* Grey wire on new head goes to blue wire in dash.
* Tape off ALL REMAINING WIRES FROM NEW HEAD, don't allow them to touch each other or any metal in the dash.
* This uses the factory fader, and factory amp, without messy rewiring.
* Anyone who tells you that the new radio has more watts than the old amp needs to look at what it takes to make 40x4 rms. It sure ain't gonna fit inside a deck, and it will need at least 10ga power wire, which new radios don't have.
* I worked the install bay many many years. I did every e30 like this, and my 88 535is has had this wiring for 6 years, no problems. There is a common thread on these boards that says 'rewire' when it is not needed.
* If you have the std system without an amp, it is just as easy, there are two extra wires. Email me for details if so.
* If you are confused, take it to a reputable shop ( no Best or Circuit in the name ). 40 bucks and you will be in and out in 10-15 minutes.

thats from the e30 faq's section on here i just copy/pasted.

[yodman]

Still unsure of the radio situation. I will try swapping the power and memory wires, but the car seems to be electronically fine since the incident. Started after sitting for a day and drove 40 miles to work no issue.

Gotta do my spark plugs next. Tends to miss a lot when I first start it for about 30-60 seconds. Plus it's cold, I realize that.

Oh! I also shot a chunk of catalyst brick out the tailpipe on Saturday. Thought my system had the cat removed, as part of the double downpipe was replaced with a single pipe right before the first small box in the exhaust system. Is that the cat, the small box?

I forget the symptoms of blown catalyst. I know the car will choke, but mine does not.

[yodman]

Still figuring things out as I go!

The alternator caused my battery drain. At idle, it does not charge at all. Anything above idle charges it, but not very well. So, I have a new unit to install.

Oh, and yes the wires are switched on the head unit. I intend to change them this week. However, I am moving right before Thanksgiving on Thursday, so the car is just getting driven right now.

I scored a BUNCH of parts yesterday:
-HVAC/radio bezel (mine was broken in a few places)
-rear half of console (hasn't had one since I bought it)
-F/R ashtrays
-lower driver knee pad
-black rear speaker shelf and third brake light
-NICE check panel (mine was all cracked)
-speaker kick panels
-rear seat carpet (vertical section)
-trunk liner

All that for $20. I'm happy! Most of it is in nice shape, too.

I'm going back for the carpet next! $25!

[jakeb]

Nice to see another MI member. Welcome!

[yodman]

Hey Jake, thanks a lot!

You and I had emailed a week or two ago about IS lip hardware.

[yodman]

Preparing for the alternator change and spark plug change this weekend, as I have intermittent no-starts and rough idles as well as very little charging below 3000 RPM, i.e. 13.1V and no charge at idle, i.e. 12.1V.

Stop and go traffic is fine as the car stays cool and I sometimes hold the idle up a bit, but it's annoying and only adding large stress to the battery.

Winter is just setting in and I already cannot wait for spring so I can play with some paint and mount my IS lip again, as well as my 16" wheels.

[yodman]

Well, I changed the wires around on the stereo last night, and I have the same symptoms. No power unless lights are on, and memory lost after turning off key.

This time around, I am just test lighting to see what's hot all the time and what's switched with the key. Two different write-ups have shown me the same method, and both have failed. One from bimmerforums, and the other I can't recall where I found.

I have looked at Luke's writeup, but my car doesn't seem to match that.

No worries, I'll solve it yet!

Oh, and now that the tools are moved to the new garage, I can change my alternator and headlights finally!

Plus, as an added bonus, the yellow fogs on my IS lip work!