pretty awesome build.... I remember the 745i and the 645i as well....man, keep up the good work.
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
M30 OEM Turbo project
Collapse
X
-
Originally posted by kronus View Posti want what you're smoking
2nd this
Comment
-
Originally posted by kronus View Postok, now look up a 645i ;)Projects Hartge,Alpina & AC Schnitzer Builds.http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=280601
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=227993
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=289362
DSC04926 by Raul Salinas, on FlickrDSC03413 by Raul Salinas, on Flickr
Comment
-
Originally posted by kronus View PostThere's been a M106-converted euro e24 for sale in the bay for a few months. The guy wants 10K, though..
Read that wrong, thought he was asking 10k for just the m106 motor.
'89 535i/5 Holset WH1E turbo
Follow my m106 megasquirt build thread: http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...Squirt-content
Comment
-
The factory M106 motor came with heat shields that sat on top of the manifold and kind of wrapped around the wastegate. They're cool and all, but for some reason BMW decided to make them out of mild steel instead of stainless or whatever. So they rust and corrode like a bitch. I sandblasted mine and painted them with header paint rated to 1500F, but they still looked like shit.
Thankfully I work for a company that manufactures mostly stainless steel sheet metal. Out with the old:
In with the new. All made from 16ga (0.060") 304 Stainless. This should do nicely.
I'll mount it all up tomorrow and take some pics.
Comment
-
Those look nice. may have to get a set from you come time...
Comment
-
Anyone who knows me well knows that I can turn a mean wrench, but electricity and I get along like, well, electricity and water. James (and others) have had plenty of good laughs over my incompetence haha. So one of the goals I set out for myself was to get better at my wiring.
Some if it you can see in the way I wired the gauges (insulated connectors, heatshrink, labels, etc) but really' it's practice and experience that count. Time for more wiring then!
In total I have 5 new power draws on the car:
- gauge power
- gauge backlights
- LC2 wideband controller
- intercooler fan
- intercooler spray pump
All of these should be on switched 12V power and rather than running 5 new circuits with 5 inline fuses and blah blah blah... I decided to add a fuse block that was fed by switched 12V, so that anything I hooked to it would also be switched 12V. Here's the layout.
Constant 12V power feeds through a 30A fuse and then in to a relay to make it "switched" with the ignition. Then that power gets distributed to the fuse block, and on to the various accessories. All the wiring before the split is 10ga, all wiring after is 18ga. Plenty of copper to handle the amps.
Here's the 30A fuse bolted just below the harness, next to the firewall distribution block (it's upside down... photobucket flat-out refuses to rotate it for some reason???)
Next I split the 10ga wire in to six 18ga wires to feed the fuse block. I found the easiest way to do this was to use my heat gun to get the wires super hot, and then just melt in the solder.
Once that was all heatshrinked and tucked away safely on the cabin side of the firewall, I ran the 18ga wires in to the fuse block for power. So what you see here is 12V being fed in to the fuse block, the power for each circuit comes out the other side. And labels, of course!:
Ideally I should have found a fuse block that let me run a single large-gauge wire in to it instead of having to break it in to 6 individual feeds, but whatever. This was good quality and readily available. I'll add some more photos after I mount the fuse block and get the accessories hooked up to it.Last edited by CorvallisBMW; 03-26-2015, 11:23 AM.
Comment
Comment