Great work - the Dietel e21 345i even managed to maintain aircon, so no doubt you'll make it happen too :) There's more width in the e30 engine bay.
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M30 OEM Turbo project
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Originally posted by kronus View Postyou can theoretically mod that wastegate to make it adjustable, btw
I still have all my M106 turbo bits too if you need anything
what are you doing for management?
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Update time!!
So you know how I said my garage was tiny? Well I wasn't kidding.
Very little space on either side
I've got some room in front to work
Anyway, on to bigger and better things! First off, time to remove the exhaust. Yes it's very long... I need to have some flanges or v-bands welded on lol
I hadn't actually dropped the exhaust before, I just had a shop build it on the car. I noticed these pipes are definitely NOT mandrel bent... I'm concerned this could cause some flow issues with the new turbo setup. Thoughts?
Next up, time to remove the manifolds
About half of the studs decided to stay behind... time for some double-nut stud removal action.
With all the exhaust gone, there's actually more room in here than I thought
Also... I should probably replace my guibo
Tomorrow I'm taking a big load of parts over to Wishno87's place to sandblast them and get them ready for paint and/or ceramic coating.
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Yeah, I like this. Subscribed.Originally posted by Andy.BWhenever I am about to make a particularly questionable decision regarding a worryingly cheap diy solution, I just ask myself, "What would Ether-D do?"
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Lets have some updates, mkay?
Josh (Wishno87) very generously let me use his sandblasting cabinet on Saturday. Since I plan on either painting or coating most of the components of the turbo system, I really needed to get everything cleaned up before I could get started on that. Obviously paint doesn't stick well to rust or old flaking paint, so sandblasting was by far the best and quickest way to get everything cleaned up.
Turbo manifold, exhaust housing, wastegate housing, and oil inlet/outlet fittings:
Assorted heat shields and wastgate:
Of course sandblasting leaves behind sand (duh), dust and particulate. Again, not good for paint adhesion. I didn't want to wash the steel/iron parts as is would just cause more rust. So my solution was to buy a quart bottle of 91% isopropyl alcohol, pour it in a bag, and use it as a crude parts wash. This way I could easily remove and dust or sand particles from the parts without introducing any new contaminants.
Mask everything up:
Hang it all on a string, and go to town on it. I used a black BBQ paint rated to 1200F. I realize there are automotive-specific paints out there, but I already had this laying around and I'm sure it will work perfectly fine.
Once dry, place on covered pan and bake at 250F for 30 minutes, or until wife starts complaining about the smell
Next up: silver header paint (rated to 1500F) for the heat shields and oil lines. I like a bit on contrast in my engine bay, so these should look nice next to the black charge pipes, valve cover, and intake manifold.
I also painted the charge pipes in the same black wrinkle-coat (rated to 350F) that I used on my valve cover and intake mani. This wrinkle paint really bleeds, I've never had anything squeek past painters tape like this before.
Last edited by CorvallisBMW; 12-16-2014, 06:33 PM.
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Originally posted by kronus View Postdepending on your money/headache exchange ratio, this might be interesting for you: https://www.millerperformancecars.co...stegate-detail
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