cleaned up an painted a Sparco strut brace I had sitting around. interestingly, it doesn't clear the fusebox of my '83 323i but fits fine here with a bit of elbow grease.

made a subframe bushing extractor helper thingy

pushed the (very dead) bushings out of the old subframe, cleaned and primed it

With the subframe swap I will also be removing the buzzy open 4.10 small-case diff, so I'm currently figuring out what I want to install in its place. I have a S3.46, a 3.46 Torsen, and a S3.23 available, and may have a line on a S3.15 as well. (yes, I have a problem) The main operative difference is whether I want to stick with the 260 in the car, or put in one of my 245/11s (told you I have a problem).
A 3.46S is a bit low for the 260, going about 3100 RPM at 80mph, vs the 245/11+S3.15 combo's much more convenient 3500. However, putting the dogleg in involves locating a clutch for it, redoing the entire shifter setup, and it makes the car less attractive for an S5x motor down the line if the M50 goes, since the 245 will apparently have trouble keeping its shiny bits on the inside with that much power. Maybe I just want a 3.73.
I have been driving the car as well now that it's street-legal, and am running into some cooling issues. Car sits at a tick to the right of the 1/2 mark on the gauge, but coming off the highway it will get as high as 3/4 before the fan can rein it in. The internet claims the M42 rad is pain in the ass to bleed, but I'm pretty sure it's fully bled by now. I have good heat coming from the core and everything seems to be circulating fine. I have the stock 92deg thermostat in the motor.. Is it possible that the M42 radiator is just not keeping up?
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