New to the family, but NEED HELP!

[Jdub]

Well after a ton of worrying and researching I'm finally content with how she's running. The "sewing machine" sound coming from the engine and the "bumpy idle" are apparently normal so I'm going to stop being paranoid and enjoy it now! I'm going to try to knock out bypassing the amp and putting in a new head unit this week. Also need to do some research on what wheels work best, looking for a new set of those as well.

In the mean time, here's a picture of her :)

[rcsoundn1]

if you have spark, all you need is air and fuel. I thouhgt I read that you did the plugs, cap and rotor as well correct? Could be slow to build fuel presure. could be dirty injectors

[Idrisu]

ticking is normal, lumpy idle is normal. Our cars aren't like modern cars. The tech you spoke with may not know a lot about 30 year old German cars.

When you said it almost didn't turn over, do you mean it cranked for a long time before it started? Or it cranked really slowly?

What would cause it to crank for a long time before it starts? Alternator and starter have been replaced.

[Jdub]

as far as turboing your motor, grab an m30 and turbo that

Wouldn't that cost me more to buy a new motor plus all the required parts for a turbo build? I was hoping to start of with something smaller and more reasonable like a Garrett t3 or something. This is my DD so it most likely wont see the track anytime soon.

[Das Delfin]

squealing on startup is your accessory belts.

For your valve ticking, I think it's a case of you just didn't notice it before since the car was new to you.

as far as turboing your motor, grab an m30 and turbo that

[rcsoundn1]

Prob not your timing belt screaming, prob your accessory belts

[agent]

Moved to The Project Forum.

[Jdub]

The knock it slight and sporadic, I have to listen very closely for it, it may be something else that sounds similar but isn't really in the engine.

It cranked up at regular speed, just took a little longer to start.

My concern is that the ticking/shaking wasn't evident before the valve adjustment and new timing belt, and now its more pronounced. (Also the timing belt squeals a little bit when I start it up cold. I think this might be because its too tight?? Is my engine gonna blow up from the belt being too tight or am I ok?)

Since I just got some extra cash I was thinking about taking the summer to invest in machining the head, resealing everything that needs to be resealed, and maybe doing the o-ring on the head and a new head gasket. Im still researching, but I definitely want to boost as soon as I can so it might be worth while. Any advice on that front?

[Das Delfin]

ticking is normal, lumpy idle is normal. Our cars aren't like modern cars. The tech you spoke with may not know a lot about 30 year old German cars.

When you said it almost didn't turn over, do you mean it cranked for a long time before it started? Or it cranked really slowly?

[15Michaeljoseph]

When does the knocking happen?

Ticking is pretty normal. These cars are supposed to sound like sewing machines. As long as your valves are adjusted properly, youre good to go.

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[rcsoundn1]

i have ticking also, but the knock is what would make me nervous as well.

[Jdub]

Gotcha, the bigger problem is there is a pretty signficant ticking. The more ive been driving it the more my ear is picking up on it. Also, I hear what seems to be an occasional knock which really makes me nervous.

[rcsoundn1]

my idle is mildly lumpy, which i happen to like, and my head was rebuilt

[Jdub]

They said something about having to machine the head because the valves were not sealing properly which was causing a rough idle, ticking/missing. As far as I know the engine has never overheated. This morning after a short drive I went to start it up again and it almost didnt turn over. The guy at the shop adjusted the valves with a feeler gauge. From what I understand its hard to get a great adjustment by hand, and its preferably better to use a spring tool?

When I first bought it, it wasnt ticking or shaky at idle, only after the valve adjustments came into play did the engine start having trouble, so maybe its just bad adjustments.

I assume a dry/wet compression test will reveal a lot about the condition of the head?

Also: If Im currently saving up to boost the car, would it be wise to get head machines and re-done anyway, with the stronger headgaskets/copper o-rings and things of that nature?

[lukeADE335i]

IIRC, the interval is 5 years or 50k miles. So I prefer 4 years or 40k miles (which ends up being 4 years for me) since I'd rather throw away an OK belt than worry about it being a potential failure point in my car

Have to agree with a couple of others on here... you guys are paranoid :D

My Dad put the 2.0L M20 from my car into his & forgot to change the timing belt (he'd done it on his previous engine, and his memories blended together & he thought he'd done the belt). He then drove it around for 4 years before the tensioner finally let go - fortunately he heard a funny noise and stopped driving. The belt didn't skip, but when he took the belt off, the tensioner fell apart and the belt was so brittle and cracked, I couldn't believe it was still in one piece & he couldn't believe a 4 year old belt could look like that, then he realised he didn't change the belt.

We looked back through the service records of my car and found the belt was already 8 years old before he swapped the engine into his car so the belt lasted 12 years, and had done around 180,000kms.

Anyway - back to current part of the thread. M20s can have a bit of a lumpy idle, and if the valves are adjusted correctly it shouldn't do much damage to drive as is. As others have suggested, keep a careful eye on the oil and coolant and see how it goes.