84 318 Zender Rebuild

[ZEKTI]

84 318 Zender Rebuild

Got some of the lower part of the engine put back together. I'm in the process of getting everything cleaned and chasing all the bolts, etc. With the Supersprint headers finally done and arrived I can finish assembling. Few questions though for the people that know M10s.



1. Do I need the vibration dampener that goes on the passenger side engine mount? I read it was more for vibrations with AC on at idle. Ac is now deleted, but is the shock still needed?



2. The isn't a spot for the O2 sensor on the new headers. Does this need one? I ask because the old sensor wasn't even plugged in upon disassembly. If so it should be easy enough to modify the SS midpipe.



3. The old flywheel has engrained oil from when the rear main seal leaked. Should I have it turned or just elbow grease and degreasers?



Thanks all. Hopefully I can get more progress in the upcoming months.

[ZEKTI]

Progress has been slow due to late spring weather and myself finishing e36. Head is back from machine shop and on motor. Will hopefully finish up cleaning covers and get the timing chain on by this weekend start bolting stuff back to the block. Supersprint headers are ordered and will be made hopefully by June, then shipping from Italy will take a month. If it’s nice this weekend I’ll paint the bay.


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[ZEKTI]

Progress has been slow since weather has been hindering painting the block. Thankfully got it painted today. While original plan was black this gloss gray was different. Still need to paint certain accessories. Head is at local shop. Have a huge pile of parts that need installed once head is back. Hopefully more updates soon!

MJ - Got the Curil. Thanks





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[mjweimer]

Motor seems relatively clean inside. Need to get the timing and oil pump chain off. Does the M10 need a safety wired oil pump nut?


The motor really needed to be taken out for this. All the hoses and lines are cracked and splitting. It should look good once back together. Does anyone use RTV/gasket sealer on the cork gaskets? Anything special on paper gaskets? Thanks all!

That motor is REALLY clean inside, even the piston tops look really good.

I always recommend and use Curil T. Works on engine gaskets and areas where multiple sealed surfaces meet (like the head gasket at the front timing covers on an M10). It only takes a super thin coating on the surfaces being sealed. Coat both sides when using paper gaskets and one side when using a cork gasket. Has worked without fail for me on several motors.

https://www.pelicanparts.com/More_In...iABEgIPyPD_BwE


Make sure to clean out those head bolt holes on the block really well before putting the head back on...and if you remove the exhaust manifold studs make sure to use loctite on the upper studs - they are drilled/tapped through into the cam/rocker area and will leak oil on to the exhaust manifold.

Love that you're keeping this an M10.



MJ

[ZEKTI]

Motor is torn down. Now it needs a thorough cleaning. Some of the parts may need sent out for media blasting. Dropping the head off this week to get possibly decked and valve stem seals replaced. Cylinders 3/4 leaking. I’d like to do the valve stem seals myself but don’t have the correct tools...yet.

Motor seems relatively clean inside. Need to get the timing and oil pump chain off. Does the M10 need a safety wired oil pump nut?

Hopefully it warms up so I can paint the block and then reassemble the motor. I would like to find a local shop that can clean and rezinc the stock hardware rather then new from Fastenal/BMW.

The motor really needed to be taken out for this. All the hoses and lines are cracked and splitting. It should look good once back together. Does anyone use RTV/gasket sealer on the cork gaskets? Anything special on paper gaskets? Thanks all!






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[ZEKTI]

Had a productive Friday afternoon and got the motor pulled. Broke some things removing as 30 yo rubber and plastic break looking at them. Motor is covered oil, rear main seal is leaking. Should get all the parts in tomorrow so I can tear the motor down and clean it up.


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[loki_]

swaps are for guys who don't believe in the power of 8 valves.

[ZEKTI]

Thanks for the information all. I will be searching the classifieds for part outs in the south or west coast as much of the local pieces are very rusted. As for the fogs I would like to see what it looks like without but as my brother pointed out more lights complete the 80s look.

Looked at the motor more and the current plan is to pull and do a stock refurbish for now. It desperately needs cleaned and every piece of rubber hose needs replaced. Wiring needs redone in certain places and in general the entire engine bay needs cleaned up/replaced. Only real modification will be headers. When the motor is on the stand and head is off it will get new chains, guides, tensioners etc that can be carried over to a more extensive overhaul later on. I'll reseal the trans, new solid bushings where applicable and a lightweight flywheel. The objective is to get a good baseline with the car in a "new" stock form while preserving some of the budget for paint/bodywork which is going to be extensive. Once the car is "completed" in that bodywork and motor work is done, then the motor will get pulled for a full teardown and 150hp+ build next winter at the earliest.

I like your eclectic taste in cars. I've always wanted to swap a e36ti with something cool and weird. How do you like it being s52'ed?

Love the way this build is going too. Excellent work

It's a fun little car. Has been 6cyl swapped for a little over a year now. I've had since highschool (09) and had wanted a Compact for as long as I can remember which is odd I guess. It got me through HS and college and now work. I daily it when I can but not in the MI winters. The power is good and it's not fast per say but with the 410LSD it's quite peppy around town. It's a very easy swap and the needed supporting mods are inexpensive. My friend, BlueBimma (Active on BFC), convinced me to swap as he has done many. In the Ti he has swapped M50/2, LM7, 6.0LQ heavily modified, Ford 2.3 Turbo and is in the process of LNF swap. I've driven the 6.0 and 2.3T and both were very unique and enjoyable. The torque from 6.0 is very nice. His LNF build will be pretty crazy but it's in the early stages.

[JasonC]

Is it safe to say I will need most everything in diagram? What can I get away with not replacing?

You'll just need #8 (both sides) in both pictures. But iirc the stock brake ducts don't reach the Zender airdam. I can't remember how big of gap there is though as it's been probably 7 years since I had mine. Now for the valance, you can get away with a US valance if you run no fog lights in the Zender. But if you do decide to cut into the Zender for fogs, you'll have a clearance issue with the back of the fogs hitting the valance. You'll have to get a Euro valance with the fog holes already there or cut the US valance to clear. Then you have to mount the fogs to the Zender. I used Euro e28 ones on mine. I had to epoxy studs to the Zender for them to attach. The #2 that was mentioned in an earlier post, you don't need that as the Zender replaces/covers where that lip goes.

[wworm]

I like your eclectic taste in cars. I've always wanted to swap a e36ti with something cool and weird. How do you like it being s52'ed?

Love the way this build is going too. Excellent work

[paynemw]

Is it safe to say I will need most everything in diagram? What can I get away with not replacing?

I just threw away half of that stuff last week... specifically #2 and #8 (both sides)

[ZEKTI]

Thanks Jean. I know it should be upgraded in time but the plan is to bring it back to stock and running again. May do some simple head work to get a feel for the car and how it carries itself with the current suspension and brake setup.

The floor was done with steel and aluminum by my brother. Rivets and bolts. Bodywork should start in the spring/summer.


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[Jean]

Oh this brings back memories, I've had my 84 318i for over ten years now. I still remember how it drove with the m10b18 once it was running good. I've driven the piss out of it until the stock m10 1.8l block cracked in many places (it was original), it was a momentum car that's for sure...but throw some good suspension on it and good sticky tires and it was fun...just crappy FI system compared to later Motronic setups you'll find in m20+ cars.

Personally, I would have swapped the rear brakes to disc and upgraded the fronts to late model brakes as you get vented rotors that way too.

Leave the mechanical fan, you have no reason to remove it imho. I'd look for 2.0 block and build that up with a spare M10 head and then swap it it if you ended on sticking with M10 NA way, displacement helps. Who did the floor repair, it looks like it's some serious sheet metal there, with rivets or what are those?

Nice project man!

[ZEKTI]

84 318 Zender Rebuild

Started researching M10 na builds and how to pull a few more hp from it. Just want to liven it up. Found a few things that are needed.

Lightweight flywheel/stock clutch
Billet Rockers
Cam
Headers
Port/polish
Remove snorkel
Possible valve spring upgrade

Stock bottom end. Seems overall pretty straightforward. Should I remove the mechanical fan?


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[ZEKTI]

Progress has been slower with life and myself finishing up swapped compact. Trying to get all the bits and pieces for the front sorted. In photo below is all that currently have for the front other then Zender valance/bumper.


Is it safe to say I will need most everything in diagram? What can I get away with not replacing?