Zephyr's Lachs M52B30 Stroker Build **ITBs**

[jeenyus]

You should just be able to sand it all down with some fine grit. Start with like 400 and work up from there.

[Metallated]

No problem! Here is a reference picture. Someone else gave me this advice when I painted them about the 2K, so it only makes sense to pass the advice along. Here is a picture for reference:

Looks good!

Any tips for getting the old stuff off? Light sanding and scraping?

[jeenyus]

Thank you! And I appreciate the insight into the tail lights, I got them the way they are off of a parts car, and the peeling has been getting progressively worse. I will definitely try the 2k clear.

No problem! Here is a reference picture. Someone else gave me this advice when I painted them about the 2K, so it only makes sense to pass the advice along. Here is a picture for reference:

[Metallated]

this is awesome.

As far as those rear taillights go, it looks like you used a 1k clear coat (probably). i'd highly recommend using a 2k clear from an auto paint supply store. I did mine that way like 5 years ago and they look just as nice as they did when i first did them. I live where our winters are harsh and i've still had zero issues/fade.

Thank you!

And I appreciate the insight into the tail lights, I got them the way they are off of a parts car, and the peeling has been getting progressively worse. I will definitely try the 2k clear.

[jeenyus]

this is awesome.

As far as those rear taillights go, it looks like you used a 1k clear coat (probably). i'd highly recommend using a 2k clear from an auto paint supply store. I did mine that way like 5 years ago and they look just as nice as they did when i first did them. I live where our winters are harsh and i've still had zero issues/fade.

[Metallated]

So youve been running about a year no problem with a full set of m52 rings?

That's correct. Good leakdown as well, somehow...

Will, thanks for the useful answers.

[pyu]

In the US? Didn't the Z3's get aluminum M52 blocks? That would be my pick.

I'm from Europe. I need to know if I need to shave or not from M52 aluminium block (I have one from M52B25 engine, 2.5L, 170 hp)

[The Dark Side of Will]

Only thing that scares me is the top ring being too tight when warm. Is there such a thing as vertical clearence when it comes to rings?

There's plenty of info on the internet about gapping rings... Google "gapping piston rings" for info. You can measure with feeler gauges (fairly cheap) and tell if it's going to be ok.
"Vertical clearance" (@$$uming you mean how much wider the groove is than the ring) is called "side clearance". It's better narrower and getting it as low as 0.001" can pick up top end power by controlling ring flutter.

Hi.

Did you milles / shaved from the M52 block?

I want to a 3.0 stroker, but not sure what to use, M52 block ori M50 block. I have m50b20 block, and an m52b25 block.

In the US? Didn't the Z3's get aluminum M52 blocks? That would be my pick.

[pyu]

Hi.

Did you milles / shaved from the M52 block?

I want to a 3.0 stroker, but not sure what to use, M52 block ori M50 block. I have m50b20 block, and an m52b25 block.

[GrannyApple]

So youve been running about a year no problem with a full set of m52 rings?

Im rebuilding an m54b30 motor for boost and ordered m52 rings. Since there is so much conflicting info I assumed you could use all 3 m52 rings n the m54 piston, but it seems the general consensus is that you use the lower two m52 rings and the m54 top ring. I really dont want to order new rings and deal with sending these back so Im tempted on trying what you did. Only thing that scares me is the top ring being too tight when warm. Is there such a thing as vertical clearence when it comes to rings?

[The Dark Side of Will]

Neat Emblem! Especially the fact that it's in the older style. Where did you get it from? I've been considering a custom emblem and actually modeled it in Solidworks. The price for a 3D printed stainless was just a bit steep for my liking. Although mine of course said "ARMO"

The ballers go with 3D printed titanium.

[Metallated]

Neat Emblem! Especially the fact that it's in the older style. Where did you get it from? I've been considering a custom emblem and actually modeled it in Solidworks. The price for a 3D printed stainless was just a bit steep for my liking. Although mine of course said "ARMO"

Hahah thanks. You can just barely see from this angle but it is actually just two 325 badges stitched together!
Like you I wanted to machine one, but now that my school's machine shop is closed I will have to wait. Most likely I will try to machine it out of aluminum (much easier to machine) and then chrome plate it.

[Skarpa]

Neat Emblem! Especially the fact that it's in the older style. Where did you get it from? I've been considering a custom emblem and actually modeled it in Solidworks. The price for a 3D printed stainless was just a bit steep for my liking. Although mine of course said "ARMO"

[Metallated]

Swapped out the emblem to better represent the displacement.
I was tempted to leave it stock, but so much of the rest of the car has been messed with by previous owners I don't think it makes much sense to worry about keeping it original. (Also yes I need to clean up the glue strands around the new emblem).

I really need to re-clear the tail lights, but I have tons of time because of COVID so I'll get to that soon.

[Metallated]

So when rebuilding this engine I reused piston rings with different rods, and I have always been a little nervous about this.
I also have been having some minor white smoke and so I wanted to see how the engine is doing.
I did a leak down test with the engine cold and got the following result:

1 - 98%
2 - 97%
3 - 96%
4 - 98%
5 - 94%
6 - 97%

These were with 100psi reference. I think the results would be better if I did the test with the engine warm, and I will probably get around to this eventually.
I definitely feel very lucky with how reusing rings worked out.