Project Facelift

[mikeedler]

no, not if you do it the R3V way. When we replace panels at my work, sorry we dont use screws and undercoating. If I was doing that, I would make it look factory. I know you wont see it, I am just trying to make a point that if another few hours were put into it, in the end you would know it was done "factory like",
and yes, it will flex, and eventually crack the undercating you put on it.

I mean that whatever you are going to "mold" the 2 parts together with (bondo/???) is going to crack, because it is not going to be solid. As long as you guys are happy, Its all good.

Nothing needs to be "molded" together?

[Jand3rson]

I mean that whatever you are going to "mold" the 2 parts together with (bondo/???) is going to crack, because it is not going to be solid. As long as you guys are happy, Its all good.

Nope, nothing is being bonded. I'm going to apply new rubberized undercoating to the whole apron, and also up into the entire area behind where the bumper mounts, thoroughly covering all of the exposed metal, the seam, and all the welds. That shit goes on super thick, and will adequately seal the seam. After that it will be painted, and will form a perfect seal and prevent against rust.

[mikeedler]

I mean that whatever you are going to "mold" the 2 parts together with (bondo/???) is going to crack, because it is not going to be solid. As long as you guys are happy, Its all good.

[AndrewBird]

Ya, I was the one welding them. Between the crappy Schucks welder and all the burning undercoating, they came out looking like shit. Good penetration, but they look bad. I really need to pick up a good welder, just don't have the cash.

Oh, it is a flux core welder, not MIG by the way.

And Mike, it will be fine the way it is. The whole thing is going to be undercoated and then painted so there will be no metal exposed to the elements for moisture to get to any of the metal.

And as far as cracking, the metal or the welds sure as hell isn't going to, so I don't know what you are talking about.

[Jand3rson]

think you know it all if you want, But I have seen plenty of SHAVED mini trucks in my days, and it all cracks. ask a REAL Body guy too, he will tell you that that stitching on an outside body panel is crap. I am not knocking either of you REALLY--- both cars are super clean, I just know from EXPERIENCE, that will suck up water, after it cracks in a few years and rust VERY fast. do what you all like, im just trying to be helpful.

What are you talking about that is going to crack? The welds? I don't see that happening. And as far as the seam, it's not going to be sucking up any water because it's going to be sealed and then painted.

[CleanAzzE30z]

When Im in Germany again, Ill give you attention. ;)

Mariano

[mikeedler]

actually, i just want attention!

[CleanAzzE30z]

think you know it all if you want, But I have seen plenty of SHAVED mini trucks in my days, and it all cracks. ask a REAL Body guy too, he will tell you that that stitching on an outside body panel is crap. I am not knocking either of you REALLY--- both cars are super clean, I just know from EXPERIENCE, that will suck up water, after it cracks in a few years and rust VERY fast. do what you all like, im just trying to be helpful.

Stop instigating shit, negroe!!! ;) jk

Mariano

[mikeedler]

think you know it all if you want, But I have seen plenty of SHAVED mini trucks in my days, and it all cracks. ask a REAL Body guy too, he will tell you that that stitching on an outside body panel is crap. I am not knocking either of you REALLY--- both cars are super clean, I just know from EXPERIENCE, that will suck up water, after it cracks in a few years and rust VERY fast. do what you all like, im just trying to be helpful.

miked and pierced, there is no reason to do an entire seam. I did my setup the same way, and it will be fine. IT isn't like there are cuts or riffs in the panel that will cause it to "prep/paint to crack"

This is more than acceptable. By your stupid theory cars should be seam welded, which they are not.

Besides, MORE welding could possibly mean MORE rust on the back side.

[Jand3rson]

I hate to say it, but damn, I think my daughter could do better welding than that!! JOSH???????!!!!!!?????????

Prep work is 99% of the work follows along here too.

You need to weld that thing completely on. Not that stitch garbage every foot. that is going to crack the bondo in a few months(I know you wont see it) BUT the rust will see it.

sorry to be the neg one.

There will be no bondo applied to this area. The apron is mounted to the car with screws, and also with the shown welds. Again, Andrew is a great welder, the welder we were using is a piece of shit. There is no need to weld the entire seam. Back when I wasn't even going to weld it, everyone kept telling me I needed to weld it, and that I should just do small welds every few inches. Now I've done that, and everyone is telling me I need to weld the entire seam. Trent's apron is welded in the same way (probably with much better welds).

The apron is very securely mounted. The welds, thought they admittedly do look like shit, are plenty strong and are burned through. All of the areas of bare metal will be sprayed with self-etching primer, and the whole area up into the existing body in the bumper area will have rubberized undercoating reapplied, which will fill in the VERY small gaps, and then painted.

[PiercedE30]

+1 on not leaving the stitches. I know why your welder stitched it, but to leave the stitches and not do the complete seam? C'mon. When you are driving the rear valence will move a little from the wind and, hopefully not, a possible bottom out/uneven surface. That, and those stitch welds, will definitely cause the prep/paint to crack.
Tell him to go to harbor freight, pick up their little flux-cored mig machine for 140, set the speed, low heat, and finish up that stitch welding.....please. And to keep the metal from possibly warping, throw a wet rag on the inside of where the welds are going.

Jon

[mikeedler]

I hate to say it, but damn, I think my daughter could do better welding than that!! JOSH???????!!!!!!?????????

Prep work is 99% of the work follows along here too.

You need to weld that thing completely on. Not that stitch garbage every foot. that is going to crack the bondo in a few months(I know you wont see it) BUT the rust will see it.

sorry to be the neg one.

[Garageaholic]

Def needs shadowlined glasses trim.